Enter the code USA15 at checkout to apply your discount. Discount will be applied at checkout when the code is entered & applies to all parts. Cannot be combined with any other coupon or special offer & cannot be applied to a previously placed order. Not valid toward tax or shipping & handling. Discount has no cash value. Discount expires on July 1 at 11:59pm EST.
You've Got 10% Off Your First Order!Save 10% with code at checkout *click to copy coupon code
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Bottom door seal broken and leaking
Unplug power to the dish washer. Remove 2 kick plate screws to remove kick plate Remove 2 screws that hold DW to underside of countertop Slide out dishwasher enough to access the cables on each side at bottom of door. With door closed, use plyers to lift the cable (one on each side) off the retaining stub. Unplug door wiring connector. Open door and slide door off the hinges. Slide old seal out and insert new seal.
dishes were not dry at end of completed wash cycle
Followed the instructions on the video, it was pretty straight forward. It was helpful to know what to expect before hand like removing accumulated water in the drain before removing the flood switch so as not to have that water drain under the dishwasher. Knowing to have a nut driver with magnetic tip was helpful in removing and reinserting the screws. all in all it was pretty easy repair.
The blue colored silverware holders had broken pegs at the ends.
Removed the old assembly and put the new one in. Took about 15 seconds. Perfect replacement. This assembly is the complete basket. The color of the blue silverware holders changed to grey which is not an issue at all unless that was the reason you bought this dishwasher in the first place. ;-)
the part is OEM and fits like a glove. No worries. There is a minor variation in design and is not like for like design but fits exactly per specs and works. I have been looking for this part for years now. Thank you for PS for maintaining the inventory.
the part is OEM and fits like a glove. No worries. There is a minor variation in design and is not like for like design but fits exactly per specs and works. I have been looking for this part for years now. Thank you for PS for maintaining the inventory. PS12743260Manufacturer Part Number WD28X26099
Followed troubleshooting procedure to determine that defective Flood Switch caused the problem and not the Heating Element. Replaced only the Flood Switch. I also replaced a deteriorated door gasket.
De-installed dishwasher from cabinet, removed door, and tipped unit over with back of tub resting on floor.
I followed the document referenced here for the troubleshooting and repair procedures: GE Appliances Technical Service Guide, 2012 GE Dishwasher, 31-9226.pdf available on web.
Part was incorrect Compare that to GE site saying number on both ports to different parts try to return was half the course of what I paid ridiculous So apparently I'm stuck with it Check GE site you'll see the port is different from what your sound but the numbers are exactly the same No clips to support the utensil tray
No boost in water temperature; water temperature during wash cycle not hot enough; dishes not drying
Had to trouble shoot to isolated the true fault condition. Checked heating element was good Researched symptoms on YouTube Removed and inspected float switch part Ordered and replaced part.
First, drain as much water as possible using a shop vac or siphon. Unscrew two plastic lugs and food screen to release the metal *disk* found inside the dishwasher at the bottom. Then, remove the grey retainer ring found under the food screen. Using the nut driver, remove two screws from the white plastic retainer ring at bottom the flood switch. I used pliers to grip the ring to take it out. **Dry everything in the "well" where the flood switch sits.** Now, remove the bottom front cosmetic panel. This exposes the underside of the appliance. Locate the flood switch wire underneath and gently pull down the small black plastic tab which holds the wires in place. This allows more movement to make your job a little easier! Pull up on the flood switch and simply unplug it and swap in your new switch! Replace everything as you found it, don't over-tighten your screws, and make your kids load that sucker! Hope this helps, and have a beautiful day!
My heating coil was not working so naturally I thought I needed a new coil and ordered one accordingly. During the time it took to ship to me, I did more research and people suggested testing the coil with and ohmmeter for resistance as often times the coil is fine and it is the flood switch that is the problem. I got an ohmmeter and checked the old coil and it returned readings that were just fine (btw 15-30), so I returned the coil and ordered this flood switch.
Anyone reading this debating between buying the coil and switch can save themselves a lot of trouble/time/money by removing the coil and testing it first.
The installation of the flood switch is fairly simple. There's a great video on Youtube for it (titled "GE Dishwasher not Drying Dishes - How to Replace Bad Flood Switch:), so I won't walk through the step-by-step on it.
However, one word of advice is to be careful when installing so that you don't let the o-ring on the switch slide down the connector/wire once you connect them or you'll get a slow leak into the catch pan at the bottom.
Also, if this if your first repair on a GE Dishwasher then get to know the unit while you have it pulled out. It won't be your last repair based on my experience...