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Strange noise coming from the dishwasher, later a small leak appearing underneath
A noisy dishwasher and water coming from underneath was being caused by a torn hose that is factory connected to the diverter. It was a little difficult to see at first as the hose sits slightly kinked when in it's normal position. Access to the diverter involves removal of the circulation pump. I ordered a new diverter which comes with metal screw on clamps. The main difficulty in installing is the positioning and alignment of the diverter and pump. My first effort resulted in a ripping of the attached diverter hose as I attempted to secure. I ordered another diverter. This time I used a lubricant to allow movement of the connecting hoses and made sure to not overtighten the clamps. I used a small mirror to make sure that the various hoses sat properly. Alignment took a bit of time. I then gently tightened the hoses. I ran the dishwasher, and found a leak, meaning that I needed to tighten these clamps a bit more. This is a doable repair that needs patience. The dishwasher is now very quiet and runs great!
Release DW from cabinet and pull out, Unplug power. Remove kick plate and unplug door cable. Open door about 6 inches and using socket back out 2 bolts at bottom of door corners. Pull door up off hinges about 4 inches and slide old gasket out and install new gasket in place. Reset door on hinges and reinstall bolts. Plug door cable in and reattach kick plate and plug power cable in. Push DW back in place and attach to cabinet and adjust kick plate
The lower tray was simple. Lifted the old one out and placed the new one on the lid of dishwasher.
Upper tray: Used the closed point of scissors to gently push the little piece of plastic on the slide and removed the cap on each slider. Pulled the damaged tray off of the sliders. Removed the piece that shoots the water onto the dishes and placed it on the new tray. Put the tray back on the sliders and replaced the little caps back onto the slider so that the tray did not come off of the track. Voila!!
Lower dish rack assembly plastic had melted through to the metal
Simple! I removed the flatware tray and pulled out the old rack assembly. Rolled in the new one and replaced the tray. Not really a "repair" per se but a needed replacement.
the hub that holds the spinner for the top water in the dishwasher broke
the design of this part is easy to break when closing the top rack.
there is a hub that clicks in place and a spinner within this that makes the water spray evenly on the top of the tub of the dishwasher
the part broke when closing the rack [a dish too tall hit it]
it took less than 5 minutes to replace as the part just clicks into two edge spots i did this without removing the rack or even looking into the tub all by feel
My son did the repair, I ordered both latch and striker, only needed the latch...only took him a few minutes to remove the old and install the new and works just fine
Nightmare!!! The Striker latch did not pop out with a screwdriver as it was supposed to. The whole dishwasher needs to be disconnected and pulled out, then front door removed and totally disassembled to remove the screw to replace the striker latch. lots of work to replace a striker latch. Bad design!
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Door 1witch stopped working
1. Turned off circuit breaker 2. Pulled out dishwasher 3. Disconnected switch and popped out switch 3. Popped in new switch and connected 4. Pushed dishwasher back into place 5. Turned on circuit breaker 6. Turned on dishwasher and it worked
This is a replacement that is straightforward but a bit mechanical. For an experienced engineer it was no problem but for the common household this is a repair best left to the pros. Fixed the issue no problem and the dishwasher is working perfectly now.
Replacing the bottom gasket on GE GDT530PGD2BB Dishwasher
Some of these other instructions may be for other models. This is specifically for GDT530PGD2BB, which doesn't present screws on the inner side of the door.
I'm extremely reluctant to do anything more than the repair at hand, so I didn't move the dishwasher out of its recessed cabinet, which would make the repair easier. I also did not remove the connector plug from the dishwasher to the door, since there was enough slack to do the repair without this step.
1. Turn off power to the dishwasher.
2. Under the bottom of the door, there are two 1/4" hex screws that can be removed with a small socket wrench, or if you moved the dishwasher out, you can tip it over slightly and get at these screws with a Phillips screwdriver.
3. With those out, you can open the door flat and slide it off it's hinges *just a little bit*. You need maybe an inch or so clearance to slide the old gasket out and slide the new one in. I had to use pliers to remove the old, very damaged gasket, but the new one easily slid into place.
4. Were you able to just move the door out a bit without removing it totally from the hinges? Great! Slide it back, put those screws in the bottom again, and you've done it! Probably in minutes!
5. Or, you could be like me and accidentally lift the door too far and have one of the hinges pop out. If I had someone helping me, it would have taken half a minute to put the door back on its hinges, but I was by myself, so I had to finagle something to keep the hinges open (two screwdrivers wedged handle first), so I could slide the door back on the hinges. That took me about 10 minutes. ¯\_(?)_/¯
Turned off pier at breaker. Removed dishwasher from under counter after disconnecting water line from dishwasher and drain tube from under sink. You might get a little residual water but not much. Removed old flood switch took about 2 minutes. Replaced with new flood switch. Then tilted dishwasher back to get to plastic nuts that hold down heating element. Set unit back down and removed old heating element then replace it with new one. Replace plastic nuts that hold element. Exact parts makes job easy. Them put water hose back on an put washer back in place hooked drain hose back up. Turned water and power back on. Tested unit worked perfectly. Hardest part of job was putting the dishwasher back into counter and getting the Instalation back on top. Parts replacement time was about 10 minutes. Disconnecting and reconnecting and replacing dishwasher 40 minutes. But I wouldn’t pay anyone to do this because it’s really not difficult.
this was ordered 4-9-21 and I have yet to receive it. Its difficult to explain the installation when you haven't received the main part. I paid for this but you have not shipped it. Very poor customer service.
It was relatively easy to fix. I unscrewed the mounting screws from the cabinet, slide the dishwasher out to access the pump under the dishwasher, I did raise the dishwasher on the left side and steadied with a stool to make access to the pump fitting easier. Then I loosed both clamps at the ends of the hose ie. from the dishwasher pump and the connection to the sink drain line, pulled the clamp off of the end that connects to the pump and placed it on the new hose connection, I removed the old hose, connected the new one and tightened the drain line connections. I placed the hose in the hose holders on the side of the dishwasher slid the dishwasher back into place and secured it in place with the mounting screws.
