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The dryer would tumble, but would not heat.
I took the front of the dryer off. The two gas valve coils were right in front. Replaced the two terminal gas valve coil and the secondary coil valve three terminal. Cleaned the inside with shop vac and re-installed the front dryer panel.
I took the front dryer panel off by removing 4 screws. I the removed 2 screws from the bracker that secured the 2 valve coils. I unplugged the 2 coils the placed new ones in the exact same position. Fastened the valve coil bracket and replaced the front dryer panel. The dryer worked like new. Thanks!!!
MY issue was the heat would cycle up on a fully cold dryer, but if the Dryer stopped for whatever reason or started a sucessive new load, you'd get no heat. I could leave the dryer unplugged for 30 minutes and it would fire back up with heat but would go out shortly, or if lucky might finsh the load.
Most of the repair avenues point towards the cycling thermostat or the flame sensor.
Unscrewed the front and ran the dryer. The heating coil DID get red hot but the gas DID NOT blow out. Unscrewed the cover over the top of the two coils. Disconected the wire. Replaced coil and cover. SUPER EASY. Its the starting and holding coil which lets the gas shoot out onto the heating filament. $75.00 just for the repair man to come out plus parts, plus labor. Probably saved $200+. All the prints of the parts are on the website so you can see what your changing. TRUST ME....DO IT YOURSELF. You'll be glad you did!!
The burner didn't stay lit long enough to dry clothes. Short cycles of flames.
The first thing to do is to check to be sure the vent is clear. The easiest way to see if this is the problem is to pull the dryed away from the vent and let it vent into the room. Once you have determined that the vent is not the issue, take the front cover off and see what is going on on the inside. To remove the front cover first remove the 4 screws on the inside of the upper cabinet to take off the control panel, I was able to gain access to the screws under the front of the control panel that hold the front cover in place. A couple of electrical connectors later the cover is removed. The coils are easily accessed from in front of the burner by removing the 2 screws that hold the small silver cover over the coil. Once the cover is removed, the coils slide off a short shaft and you can replace the coil by swapping the apporpriate electrical connector for the coil being replaced. The coils are alligned with a small white pin so you can't get it wrong. Replace the covers and fire away.
This repair is easy and saves you a lot of money. This is a great web site, easy to identify the parts you need and the delivery is very fast. Nice Job!!!
The diagrams listed online gave me a the information needed to trouble-shoot which part could be broken. It only took two tries to see which part was out but was significantly cheaper than a repairman. The expediant delivery on parts made down-time a minimal. Very pleased with results.
Unplugged the dryer from the wall. Removed the front lower cover. Removed the two screws for the bracket that holds down the coils. Unplugged the coils and swapped them out. Reassembled everything in reverse order. Plugged the dryer back in and started it. It's as good as new.
The burner fires up the first time but then never fires again causing no heat
The hardest part is figuring out how to get the unit open. You have to take out the brackets that appear to hold on the timer section and you have to remove the screws under the lint filter. Once you have the top off then you remove the screws that hold the front panel on from the inside. I decided not to remove the drum it seemed like a lot of hassle, instead I went down and got a right angle screwdriver, the terminal valves are in the front of the unit and you only have to remove 2 screws to remove the retainer which holds them both in place. The drum is in the way so you can't use a regular screwdriver and the right angle is a bit slow going but I think it is actually faster than removing and replacing the drum for a novice like myself. Replacing the coils took about 2 minutes and then reassembly another half hour. But the Dryer works great again and for $70 it was well worth it.
burner wouldn't relight after 1st or 2nd heat cycle; in other words heat faded out; solenoids measured correct resistance, but would not open the valves once they heated up
removed frt cover & drum, replaced solenoids, cleaned the unit interior
Dryer would heat, initially, but would not come back on
My suggestion is to read all of the items that may result in no heat, or insufficient heat, you will find your problem in one of the reply's and the right part to replace. The repair was made much easier, as I installed a Maintenance kit at the same time. Drum rollers, drive belts and tensioner. With the drum out, the coil retaining clip was a LOT easier to re-instal. If the drum isn't out, you can lift the drum up a little and squeeze a stubby screw driver in to loosen the retaining screws. You have to use the proper size screwdriver so you don't strip the screws, and maybe a pair of gas pliers around the handle of the screwdriver to give it a little torque to help loosen the screws, while keeping downward pressure on the screwdriver.
Found symptoms on Part Select website and confirmed that the problem was the coils. It was extremely easy to find and the site saved me hundreds of dollars on a repairman, labor costs and marked up parts. It literally took about 5 minutes to repair. Awesome site!!Thank You
