My father and I were deciding on weather or not to purchase a new stove. The stove had always worked well but one of the front burners would not work and the broiler element was cracked in half. I thought I could fix it and save alot of money and not have to purchase a new one. I entered the model # into the search engine from parts select, alot of discontinued parts came up that were unavailable. I then went to search by product and narrowed the selection to brand,size,metal,and category such as electrical. I was given like models that have these parts in common. I was surprised how many parts were available for my stove. I had originaly bought the unit through Montgomery Ward. Admiral, Maytag, and Whirlpool share many of the same parts. From the photos and descriptions I was able to find the correct parts. I purchased a new burner element and a broiler element. Unplug the stove first. The tools needed were a Phillips screwdriver and believe it or not that is it. Two screws held the top of the stove to the main cabinet. After removing these screws from the bottom of the stove top. Note all you have to do to find them is open the door and look under the stove top. The whole stove top swings up and back letting you access the burner elements. Three screws hold the element to the bottom of the stove top. Remove these and note the four electrical wires attached to the burner element. Make sure you mark or notate the location of each wire. Attach the new burner and hook up the wires to it. I put the stove top back down and plugged in the range. The new burner element worked but the switch didn't shut it off. I unplugged the stove and removed the the back plate at the top of the stove. The plate is held on by eight Phillips screws. You only need to take the top back plate off. Don't take the bottom one off. After removing the the plate I could access the switches for each heating element. The left front switch had scorch marks on it, so I knew that it was burned out. Another way is to test the switch with a continuity tester and see if there are any open contacts on the switch. I ordered the switch. It was delivered in two days. I removed the old switch by pulling the knob off the switch and removed one Phillips head screw holding the switch in place. I removed each wire and attached them just as they were attached to the old switch. I ratcheted the switch and plugged the stove in to the outlet and the new burner and switch worked great. I removed the old broiler by taking two Phillips screws out and carefully pulled the old broiler element out. I only pulled the broiler element about four inches from the back of the stove. There are two wires that slide off the broiler element. Remove them but don't let them get pushed back into the holes that they are located in or you will have to take the entire back of the stove off and push them back through there openings. I unfortunately did this and this added time to the repair job. There are two Phillips screws that hold the broiler element holding bar they are located inside the roof of the stove. Remove these screws and slide the old broiler element out. Slide this holder on the new broiler. The holder slides back and fourth on the broiler element so you can position it in the right spot. First attach the electrical connections by sliding on the two wires to the broiler. Push the broiler ends back into there holes and attach them with the two Phillips screws. Next slide the broiler holder on to the broiler element and then position the broiler on the roof of the oven. Attach with the Phillips screws. After doing this I plugged the stove in and turned on the broiler and it works great. There were alot of screws that held the back top plate to the stove and other screws that attached the switch, burner element and broiler element in place, so it would be a good idea to note were these screws are placed. Then there will not be a problem matching
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