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broken hinge
The repair was quite easy. Remove the two screws and put in the new part. The only problem I had was the hinge sent was the wrong side (but it still worked) and the new hinge had no threads for the screws. I had to tap the holes so that the screws could be used.
After I received the new hinge in the mail, my 13 year old son volunteered, for a fee of five dollars, to put the new hinge on the oven door. Seeing "easy to install" on the outer wrapper of the new part, I thought I was being generous. However, my son soon let me know that the screws given with the new hinge did not fit into the predrilled holes of the oven. He tried and tried for over an hour to get those screws to fit. I decided to go to the home improvement store to buy bigger screws. I took the hinge with me and had the store employee assess the type of screws I would need. He then informed me that the screws were fine, but I needed the holes in the hinge to be drilled bigger. I bribed him by offering to buy him a drink if he'd do it for me as long as he was single. He laughed and drilled away. (Sometimes, single women, like me, get desperate!) He handed me the hinge with larger holes and I noticed the wedding ring. Oops...no drink for him!! But I did give him a great big thank you. Happily, I brought the fixed piece home and handed it to my son to continue with the repair. He tried again and this time announced the holes were drilled too big!! If there was a bridge nearby I seriously would have jumped! The next day I drove to my Dad's house...a true jack of all trades...and with his drill and two new screws, he said this should do it. For the third time, I handed the hinge to my son and VOILA!! It actually worked! Thanks Dad!! So much for "easy to install". Seriously, the incorrect screws were sent with this hinge! Anyway, I happily celebrated that night with a drink in my hand...minus the home improvement employee!
1. Remove sliding shelves and lower pan sheild 2. Remove flame deflector 3 . Remove the 3 screws that hold the igniter in place. Insert the new cable and plug through the opening for connection in step 6. You may hve access to connector. If so skip to step 8. 4. Remove sliding storage drawer 5. Remove the sheetmetal pan to gain access to the igniter connector. It might help to have several blocks of wood the elevate the frront of the stove to allow more working clearance. 6. Disconnect old igniter, connect new igniter. 7. Replace pan and sliding drawer. 8. Remove old igniter from carrier and install new one. 9. Install igniter carrier to stove with 3 screws 10. Replace flame deflector and lower pan sheild.
It was really easy because I read information on your site. I only had to unscrew 3 screws, remove the old spark ignition electrode, replace the new one and then screw the 3 screws back. It was great
It took me a while to figure out how to access the igniter (I ended up removing the drawer and had to slide underneath the oven.) Once I removed the two sheet metal panels, I unplugged the old igniter and plugged in the new one. Installing the igniter inside the oven was easy--three sheet metal screws that hold the protective cover.
I identified the igniter problem in the lower part of the oven by turning the upper broiler on and finding that it worked. I then knew it was not a gas supply problem. Replacing the igniter required removing the two oven racks, removing the drip pan, removing two screws that connect the igniter to its mount and disconnecting the wires in the back of the oven. The install was the reverse of removal. One tip, on my oven I was able to lift the oven door off of its hinges which allowed much easier access to the igniter.
Pulled the burner cover, removed two screws holding igniter in place, pulled oven out from wall and unplugged igniter at back, feed wire and plug back thru to oven. Removed old igniter from holder slid new one in place and reversed procedure to feed wires back thru to back side. Plugged in igniter replaced burner cover and pushed stove back into place. The procedure took about five minutes if that.
After removing the oven shelves, the burner cover came right up. The ignitor was in plain sight, and after removing the screws I pulled it straight out so I could get to the wire nuts. After swapping out the old igniter and sliding the cover over the new ignitor, the new piece slipped back into place in the oven. The screws were put back in, and the burner cover and shelves put back, and the oven works wonderfully again.
Thanks to previous reviews it was really easy! Popped cover plate off bottom of oven. Removed diffuser plate by using socket wrench to remove one bolt. Removed three screws (one on top; two on left side) of bracket. Good idea to use a magnetic screwdriver so they don't get lost! Slid igniter out of bracket- a bit tricky but gently eased it out. Slid new igniter in place taking care not to touch the element. Dropped wires and harness down next to old ones. Removed bottom drawer, crawled under and switched connections. Put everything back together. It did take a little longer for the new igniter to start the first time- about one minute- but now fires right up.
Part arrive only a couple of days after ordering, and installation time was less than to schedule a repairman! My only regret is that I didn't send my better half off for the entire afternoon so I could really make it out to be a big deal as my brother-in-law, the appliance repairman, made it out to be!
remove cover bottom of oven slides out, remove three screws holding ignighter, problem i had was finding how to get to where the wire connects. there is a cover all the way in the back held by two screws this is found after removeing storage drawer on bottom.
First, I took out the racks from the oven. Next, I took out the black small square cover off the bottom of the stove, which gave me access to the oven ignitor. Then, I removed the screws to be able to take out the ignitor. Finally, I took the bottom drawer out to access the ignitor wire. I pulled the plastic connectors to disconnect the wire. I took the ignitor out and replaced with the new one. I put everything back in reverse order. The oven warmed up about 2 minutes after I turned it on.
you need to remove the shield then the tray under the burner and burner tube.then you can get to the plug. Just remember when putint it back you need to put the burner tube in first then the tray then you can screw the element back in place. replace all the screws. works great.
The oven would not ignite, but the brolier was working fine.
I assumed it was the igniter. The trick is to remove the bottom storage drawer for access to where the igniter is connected. You then need to run the wire up into the oven and mount next to the gas.
The burner would not light but the ignitor lite up fine.
I found the ignitor was wired in series with the gas valve and wasn't letting enough voltage through to the gas valve to open it. I just unscrewed the ignitor and pulled it out.
1.) Trun Off Power 2.) Remove the Storage Drawer and the two (2) screws holding on the (Ignitor Plug) access cover-plate located in the back of the storage drawer access. (see page 15 if same model) 3.) Dissconnect the Ignitor Plug 4.) From the oven opening remove the three screws holding the Ignitor Holder. 5.) Remove the Ignitor and Holder from the oven by gently guiding the wires through the access hole 6.) Pull the Ignitor from the holder 7.) All Ignitors are extremelt fragile; install the new Ignitor into the Holder and make certain it is installed tight, mine was not. (Slight bending with my thumbs on the 1/4" flanges might hold it tighter if it is lose.) 8.)Reverse the process. Note: One person here said they removed "ALL" the screws, maybe it was a different model, I only had to remove a total of "5" screws, two at the access cover plate and three at the Ignitor holder. First time took me 20 minutes, if I needed to do it today, maybe 10. Please also note that I didn't troubleshoot the Ignitor, as I didn't have a wrap-around amp meter, but the typical problem here would be the Ignitor, not the Gas Valve. Good Luck, pt
