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oven died
looked at and saw that ignitor was cracked,saw simple repair ahead. just needed the right part . Without part , select simple ,and easy selection, i might not have ever found the right part. as i said before finding the right part is 90 percent of the job and they made that an easy task .
of course if you want me to describe in detail, took out the pan saw the bad ignitor, removed 2 serews, disconnected 2 wire, the reassembled in the opposite direction. 30 minutes tops. I am sure this saved me at least 150 bucks for some "so called reparman" to do the same job, Most people do not realise that they have more education than most of these "repairmen". The only advantage these "repair people" have is acess to schematics and part numbers. Part select is a good start on putting this information in the hands of us average "idiots" as I am sure the repair folks call us when we pay 200 bucks for a 30 dollar job.
Very simple process of just ensuring you have the correct size racks and remove the old racks and replace them with the new ones. Having ordered a lot of things on the internet, I am very pleased with using Part select and would "highly" recommend them to all!!
Racks would fall off of the tracks when the broiler was used
I ordered new racks to see if they weere out of alignment. The new racks fell from its tracks after the broiler was heated. It seems the oven cabinet is expanding with the heat and the rack width does not compensate for that. The new racks did not solve the problem so I do not know what can be done next. Any shelf support would have to be heat resistent. Replacing the oven cabinet is not a good option and no gauantee it wouldn't continue with this stove.
the oven would not heat. The ignitor would heat up, but not enough to allow the gas valve to open.
The repair was fairly straightforward. The drawer below the oven had to be pulled out and the panel in the rear (looking from the front through the opening where the drawer was) was removed. It was then a matter of removing two screws and unsnapping the wire connection. And then replacing the igniter.
found igniter not working, pulled up on door and it came off, lifted up bottom of oven and pulled out, removed wing nut on deflector to access igniter, removed igniter retaining bolts, unplugged connector, be careful not to let connector slip back in stove, and reverse process to install new igniter,, all took about twenty minutes, easy repair,
Removed oven racks and bottom cover plate. Removed stainless steel diffuser to access igniter. Removed bottom storage drawer and unplugged connector for igniter. Removed defective igniter by by taking out 3 screws holding stainless steel mounting bracket in place. New replacement part had totally different bracket which prevented it from mounting in the proper orientation so I carefully removed defective igniter from original bracket and installed new igniter. New part was tacked in place by some sort of high temp adhesive that had to be carefully removed to allow it to be installed in old mounting bracket. Installed new assembly in the oven and when I tried plugging in the power connector I discovered the pins on the new igniter were the wrong sex; both sides had male pins! Removed igniter again and cut off the two pin connector and installed a brand new 2 pin molex type connector. I installed a mating connector on the original length of wire and connector that I cut from the defective igniter along with the heavy insulating material so I now had a properly mating set of connectors. Went through the mounting process again; successful mating this time. Oven lights in 50 seconds. If it dies again I'll have a connector of each sex ready before repair.
I pulled the racks out of the oven. Then pull the plate off that covers the burner. There is another shield with a nut on it that covers the burner. Removed it. The ignitor is mounted on the back of the burner, held by 3 screws, remove them. Pull the bottom sliding drawer out completely. (you have to lay down for this). There is a metal plate in the very back held with 2 screws, remove them and pull the plate out. You'll see the 2 high temp wires (White) with a plug connector, simply unplug the connector and you are ready to pull the whole ignitor assembly off the burner. The ignitor ceramic base simply slides out of the sleeve. Put the new ignitor in the sleeve and put everything back together. It's pretty simple. This is the second ignitor I have installed in 2 years, hopefully I'll get more life out of this one. Good Luck.
ignitor changed resistance so gas valve wouldn't operate
The first one came damaged and customer service credited the first one and got another on the way the same day. They were awesome to deal with. I removed the oven racks, the burner cover, the storage drawr, and the door. That took about 5 minutes. I removed 3 screws that held the ignitor in place. I removed the 2 wire nuts from the wires in the drawr space. I slid the ingitor cover off the old ignitor and onto the new one. Slid the new ignitor into place and fed the wires below and put on the 2 wire nuts, then installed the 3 screws and tested the operation. I put the oven back together and put the tools away. Total time about 20 minutes.
I ordered the part and it was at my door in 2 days. I ordered the part on Wednesday thinking I would install it on the weekend after next. The part showed up on Friday. That was amazing considering I didn't sellect expeidited delivery. I didn't have a manual and have never tried this before so grade my attempt on a curve please. I started by unscrewing the screws closest to the hinge but quickly migrated to the entire face of the range. Pulled the range out and started unscrewing the screws on the side, and then the back. Figuring nothing was coming off and I still couldn't get to the hinge I stopped and regrouped. That's when my wife asked if she could help. I guess I looked distressed. By this time I had removed the drawer and had the range on it's back in the middle of the kitchen with little bowls of screws everywhere. My wife picked up the new hinge and looked it over. Then she started playing with the old hinge which was loose, but I couldn't get it out. She realized that you can remove the old hinge and install the new hinge without taking the whole thing apart. Where was she 30 minutes ago? The hinges came out and the new ones went it in about 10 minutes. It took me another 20 minutes to put back all of the screws I had taken off unnecessarily. Sometimes use your brains instead of a screwdriver. I have the best wife ever!
I had changed the broiler igniter several years ago, but it had "burned out". The only thing that slowed me down on this repair was that the igniter was glowing brightly, but the oven would still not ignite. Others have written that it's best to try a new igniter FIRST. That indeed was the solution.
One "trick" that I did not find in other posts was how to get to the plug on the end of the igniter - so here's how.
First, open the oven, remove all racks and the bottom cover. Remove the nut holding the heat deflector in place and remove the heat deflector. Then remove the three screws holding the igniter in place.
Second, pull out the bottom drawer of the ove and remove it. At the very back there is a sheet metal cover held in place by two additional screws; remove them to rermove the sheet metal cover - this will allow access to the plug on the other end of the igniter. Unplug the igniter.
Third, feed the plug end of the new igniter from inside of the oven to the underside. Plug it in, reattach the sheet metal cover, reinstall the drawer, screw in the new igniter and put the heat deflector back in place.
Note of caution: be careful handling the igniter - it's fragile and easily broken.
