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Lower RH door hinge was making a snapping noise because door closure cam screw backed out and damaged cam by egg-shaping hole.
Removed door. Removed old cam closure assembly. Noticed that there was almost nothing inside the door for screw to screw into(only styrofoam insulation), which is why original screw backed out. Bad design. Got longer screw at bigger diameter. Pushed high strength glue into hole, on screw threads, and underneath screw head. Assembled. Crossed fingers. About three weeks have passed and so far, so good.
first I removed the panels to see if the coils were getting frosty . Then I noticed that the fan was not spinning. I tested voltage to the fan and it was hot. I ordered the new fan put it in placve and, voila!. Fixed my fride for under 50 bucks
Popping out the broken switch was easy once I was able to see how the new switch part was engineered. The switch was made to be replaced, having a simple tension hook on the bottom of the switch which needed to be depressed to pull the switch out of the cabinet. Once pulled out, there were modular plugs for the power line that were easy to pull off the broken switch and plug into the new switch. Pop the new switch back in and VOILA, the lights worked again! Thanks to part select's good diagrams of the actual model of my refrigerator, it was very easy to hone in on the exact part I needed. I did notice one problem with the order as the correct series for the part was displayed earlier in the process, but had the wrong series later in the process. However,. I trusted the system and the part is for the right series and fit well (an exact match, down to the color). Thanks Part Select, I would definitely use you again.
(1) Removed the three screws which attached the ice maker to the freezing compartmnet wall in refrigerator; (2) Disconnected the power to the old ice maker; (3) Removed the old ice maker from the freezing compartment of the refrigerator; (4) Took the white front cover off of the old ice maker; (5) Disconnected the wiring harness from the old ice maker; (6) Removed the "ice making-stop arm" from the old ice maker; (7) Placed the items taken from old ice maker on to the new ice maker; (8) Reconnected the new ice maker to the power; (9) Placed the new ice maker in the proper position in freezing compartment of refrigerator and replaced the three screws. JOB DONE!
noticed the fridge and frezzer were not cold one day.i got on google and typed in the problem and found out the the relay goes bad rather often. was an easy fix. found the parts here on partselect and recieved in with in 2 days of ordering. pulled the old part out put new part in and plugged fridge in and was back up and running with in minutes..thank you partselect....
First I removed the outer shell part then removed the 4 screws holding the ice bin together.After taking the parts out of the old ice bin it was easy to put all the new parts together except the new helix end cap which was a bit tricky to put it in place.It wasn't difficult to reassemble but I would stongly suggest taking notice how everything fits together before taking it apart.
I called a repair man from a pretty large name to come out and take a look. He found out in about 10 minutes that it was a bad capacitor. The quote he gave me was $75 for the part and $175 labor. I tried my best not to laugh and tell him no thank you. He did have to charge me for him to show up, which was only $98. So I used what he told(minus the "scrap it") and opened it back up. Although he had left wires everywhere and the broken pieces laying inside, I thought it was enough for me to order the part. PartSelect was very easy to navigate and ordering was a breeze. Took about 4 days to get the part and I ordered in the X-mas craze. Fixed it in about 15 minutes.
Lower the filter bottom housing to gain access to the filter. Unscrew the filter and install the bypass cap. Secure the lower filter housing to the top assembly.
removed the old valve from back of fridge by removing screws that held mounting plate. removed water lines by pushing in on quick connects and pulling hoses out. A little different type of connections. installed new valve and pushed hoses into connections making sure that they snaped in. reinstalled screws and checked for leaks. took about 15 minutes!
the helix end cap broke and the ice maker wouldn't dispence ice
Well it was very simple. I just pulled out the ice cube bucket , removed a few screws from the front of the bucket, pulled the front panel off, replaced the helix end cap too the auger, put all of it back together into a new ice bucket, screwed the front panel back on , than lined up the auger to line up with motor shaft of the freezer motor and what do you know I HAD ICE. My family was happy and i did this for under thirty dollars. A repairman would of cost more than three times that just to look at problem and would of cost more for the parts and the second trip to fix it. Thanks you for making it easy to find the part and for the quick delivery of the parts.
I put my frig. outside on my deck during a kitchen remodel and when I brought it back in a hooked up the water line again, I solenoid fill valve on the back of the unit leaked badly. I found a big crack in it and guessed it must have had a bit of water left in it when put outside in sub freezing, w
I searched in line for a replacement fill valve and easily found it on your site w/ excellent diagrams. I turned off the frig., & the part came out simply and logically first removing the 5 screws that hold it in w/ a nut driver. Then remove the supply water line and the other quick connect lines that feed the ice maker and the chilled water dispenser. Then, disconnect the two wire harnesses that clip off easily by hand. They feed the two relays in the valve and are color coded. Remove the valve and reverse the procedure to hook it back up. Note: a little water will come out of the lines so be ready w/ a small bowl and a dish towel. After installing the new part, it was necessary to "bleed" the water lines of air by drawing a few glasses of water from the water dispenser to get the system operating normally again. One tool, common sense, 30 minutes. Probably saved $150 + on a repair man plus parts markup. Thanks very much!!