A300S Maytag Washer - Instructions

Tilt washer. Remove old belts. Put in new. Tighten transmission bet and pump belt per YouTube. It works like new now.

Tilt the washer sideways. Remove belts,Remove front panel, loosen two hoses, loosen three small nuts. Take out old pump and install new new pump vise versa. Video provided by partselect very helpful.

Observed source of leak by lying on floor behind washing machine and placing hand in likely spots. Found water injector hose was source. Searched web for instructions to open up washing machine: 2 screws at bottom of front panel, then 2 screws at top inside after removing front panel. Easy after that. Lots of rust and rusty screws and rusty tinnerman nuts; had to grind off one of the screws with dremel tool.

Received drain pump by fed ex, put it on in 15 minutes. . . My wife was very happy again. . . .

Shut off the hot water supply (pretty sharp eh?). Disconnected the hose from the hw supply and the at the connection to the washing machine. These had not been touched in at least 15 years and were somewhat tough to loosen but finally came ..... accessibility was a problem for the connection to the water supply as it was in a recessed wall box. Fortunately, we had some washers for the hose connections so the install was a snap. Hardest part of the whole job was moving the washing machine out from between the drier and the wash tub .... tight fit. Thanks for the quick service and to FED EX for their delivery. The delivery fellow was a real gentleman.

First I removed the two screws to pull off the front panel. I then removed the two screws (1/4 inch head) in the upper front corners. Removed clamp from siphon break and carefully worked off hose. After a couple of failed efforts to put hose on dry I put some o-ring type grease on the barb and it went on easier. The clamp was a bit difficult too but take your time and it will go on. Putting injector end in tub required patients. Reassembly was reverse of above. All good for another 25 years!

I first removed the front panel of the washer and removed 2 screws holding the top of washer in place. I had to flip the top up. This allowed easy access to the tub. I then removed the agitator by removing the set screw on the lower portion. From there I loosened the mounting securing device by using the nail punch and hammer inside of the tub (it was loosened by turning it clockwise). The tub was now loose and I removed it from the washer. Next I removed the torx set screw and the tapered hub unit (cork on it). It had to be again loosened with the hammer and nail punch and turning it clockwise. This exposed the part that needed to be replaced. I replaced the old with the new and the washer now works great with no leaks! Be sure to clean everything you remove that will be reassembled.

My 13yr old son and I fixed the washer in about 5 minutes. It was very simple and easy to repair considering I had never done it before.

Frist take off front of the washer, removed old belts and then put on the new. very easy.

After looking up the problem on the PartSelect website, which indicated the problem could be with the tumbler (drum) belt, I watched the instructional video, which was very helpful, as the dryer in the video was exactly the same as mine. After removing the power cord from the wall and separating the exhaust vent pipes from the dryer, I followed the instructions for removing the front panel, the front bulkhead, the drum and the old belt, which was worn and somewhat stretched. I then followed the instructions for installing the new belt, but I found it was easier for me to remove the back access panel in order to complete the installation of the belt around the drive pulley and tension pulley wheels as I wanted to see what I was doing as opposed to just "feeling" the belt to ensure a proper installation (e.g., new belt not twisted). Once I removed the drum, and before I put in the new belt, I also took the opportunity to use my shop vacuum (and you really need a shop vac for its power)to remove 25 years of rubber dust from the old belt, house dust, and packed lint from inside the exhaust fan, cabinet, and the vent pipes (and a dead field mouse that had crawled into the dryer through the outside vent pipe and had gotten trapped in the exhaust fan). I also examined the heater tubes to insure no lint was inside that and spun the fan blades by hand to make sure the motor shaft was not worn. Once I was satisfied that the installation of the belt was done properly, I put the drum back on, reinstalled the front bulkhead (checking to make sure the felt gaskets were in place, as recommended in the video) and reattached the front panel. I also took the opportunity to touch up the accumulated minor nicks and scratches ion the cabinet with refrigerator enamel. Now that the new belt is on, the dryer no longer vibrates, and with the dust, lint and mouse removed, dryer is operating much more efficiently. Remember to re-balance the dryer using a carpenter's level to minimize any latent vibration. Note that the actual removal and replacement of the belt took me about 30 minutes, and the rest of the cleaning, reattaching of the vent pipes, and balancing, etc. took about two hours.

The PartSelect video was awesome in giving me confidence. The step by step instructions worked well until....

Calcium carbonate buildup on the reverse threaded spanner nut locked it in place such that I couldn't break it free.

I tried muratic (hydrochloric) acid which removed the surface scale nicely. But, no impact on allowing the nut to be pounded free. I then used a dremmel drill bit to vertically drill holes into the nut cross section. This allowed me to tap in a cold chisel and then pry the nut apart. Unfortunately, I had to repeat this for the second spanner nut as well.

Note, the first nut threads on the second part of the tub seal kit. So, drill away. You will not need these threads. however, the second set of threads you need to be carefull not to mess up. By drilling verically you can remove most of the cross section and cold chisel the rest without damaging the shaft threads. Second note: gently tap /wedge the cold chisel into your drilled out area. you don't want to hit hard and risk the ball bearings/raceway from getting ruined. Use the cold chisel to pry apart the aluminum stem hub. Its cast, so it will break pretty easily.

Net, the video allowed me to complete a project that exploded views, etc. would never have! The frozen nuts aside, this was an easy job that WORKED! No more leaks.

I viewed and followed the PartSelect Instruction Video. My only problem was reattaching the door after the hinges fell off.Everything fell into place as the video indicated. After I regrouped I was able to put the hinges back and then I was able to reattach the side panel very easily as the vedio indicated. Thanks for everything.

put on the new belt. it also smelled like smoke when we first ran. upon further inspection, saw that the drum was not turning easily. felt around the top inside edge of the drum, found the real problem- there was a sock jammed on the top edge between the drum and rim. removing the sock was easy, and then everything worked great!

Loosened the hose coupling, removed the old washer and strainer; cleaned the opening; flushed the opening; installed new strainer and washer; reattached hose and "Bob's your uncle"! No problem.

I followed an the online video and the repair, my first stem seal repair, went fine. Kudos to PartSelect. The parts arrived in 3 days normal delivery. I saved $500 by not buying a new washer!