Enter the code USA15 at checkout to apply your discount. Discount will be applied at checkout when the code is entered & applies to all parts. Cannot be combined with any other coupon or special offer & cannot be applied to a previously placed order. Not valid toward tax or shipping & handling. Discount has no cash value. Discount expires on July 1 at 11:59pm EST.
You've Got 10% Off Your First Order!Save 10% with code at checkout *click to copy coupon code
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Long Oven Sensor failure - oven over heated & shut down
Parts package contained no instructions. Found all instructions on internet. I used Phillips head to remove two screws on anchor plate of Long Oven Sensor. Located at upper left, back corner of oven; access to screws is not simple/easy. Screws back out w/o difficulty. Pull/extract sensor harness through hole[back of oven] which required pushing aside insulation. The harness barely fits thru hole in oven back metal wall; I recommend using needle nose pliers ( which I ended up doing ) for ease of extraction. Disconnect harness plastic interlok clips. Perfect reconnection of new clip harness with ease. Reverse procedure to complete installation/repair. Done in just over 35 minutes due to wrestling with harness extraction through minimal hole opening. Failure occurred on Thanksgiving Day with 22lbs turkey in oven. Top of turkey contacted sensor tip which eventually caused sensor fault; result was scorched upper breast and oven shut down [safety by design]. Cook top was still operative; clock and all readings on digital control panel ceased. With new 'long oven sensor' installed - good as new. Will be sure to buy turkey(s) under 20lbs in future. Jim in Seattle
Removed the back of the stove, un-pluged the sensor wires, removed the sensor from inside the oven. installed the new sensor, pluged in the wires, and replaced the back of the stove. A phillips screwdriver was the only tool needed.
Element in oven would not adjust to the oven temperature.
I ordered the temperature sensor after watching the video and seeing how easily it could be changed out. Unfortunately, they don't tell you that it may be necessary to access the part from the back. When I tried removing the sensor from inside the oven the connection separated before getting to the hole. I tried for 4 days to try to fish out the other end. Finally, I had my brother help me remove the oven from the wall and take the back off at which time we were able to connect the new sensory. It turns out that the wiring is on the upper right hand corner of the oven and the sensor is on the upper left hand corner and the wiring is rather short. I am a 64 year old female and do the majority of repairs around the house myself, but due to the weight of removing the oven I enlisted the help of my brother. After removing from the wall the rest was a breeze. Just wish the videos or written info on the website was a little more clear as to the different ways of accessing the damaged part.
Loosened the two screws holding the element, pulled the element out of the back of the oven, loosed the two wire leads connected to the back of the element, removed the broken part, placed the new element into the oven, reconnected the wire leads, pushed them back into the insulation in the back of the oven, repositioned the element into its place and replaced the two screws holding it into place with the new screws that came with the new part. Oven element fired right up first try without any further complications. One of the easiest appliance fixes I have ever done!
turned off power unscrewed plate that held in element unplugged socket from old element plugged in new one screwed plate back turned on power works fine
Watching the video of how to replace the sensor was great help and much appreciated, the only difference was that my wires were much shorter and I had to pull the oven out of the cabinet to get to the back of the oven to release the clip holding the wires together, unlike the video where the man jiggled the wires until the clip holding the wires together came through the little slot where the probe is attached, otherwise it was pretty simple, just a few extra steps to pull the oven forward to get to the rear to release the clip holding the wires together. Once I was able to release the clip I used one of the 2 adapters that was sent with the sensor probe and attached them after putting the wires through the hole where the probe was attached first then replaced the 2 screws that holds the sensor in place, slid the oven back in and turned the circuit breaker back on and it works perfectly. The video gave me the confidence to do this job though and I thank PartSelect very much for being a great company to help with videos and sending the parts so quickly.
We took the back off the stove and unscrewed the two screws from the inside holding the sensor on and pulled it through and plugged it in and then replaced the screws. Very easy. We are still having trouble as the display does not read the same as the tempature is in the oven.
First, we cut the power to the oven and removed the oven racks. I removed the two screws holding the old heating element in (removed easily, I didn't need any WD-40) and pulled the element wiring out of the back of the oven. It took me a while to realize how the wiring was/is connected to the element, but once I did they came off fairly easily with a little coaxing from some pliers. On our model, the wiring thingums fit down onto the element prongs. So, you pull the straight up to remove them. Very technical terms here. After the wires and the new element were connected, I screwed the new element in, turned the power back on and the oven was is excellent working order again.
Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!
Springs on both hinges for upper over (double-over) needed replacing. Oven door slammed down and could have hurt someone.
Couldn't get oven to slide all the way out of cabinet. Disconnected electrical (first threw correct circuit breaker), then slid oven out. Removed applicable parts to get to the hinges. Later realized the oven WOULD slide all the way out of cabinet WITHOUT disconnecting electrical. Once oven was slide out far enough from cabinet, oven door hinges were easily accessable and it each hinge only had two screws.
oven temperature only goes to 275 degrees even when set higher; broiler works
I watched the video, which was very helpful...the temperature sensor was hard to pull through the small opening in the upper back left oven corner. On the back wall of the oven was a large removable circle, so I unscrewed that piece and was able to gain access to the wires attached to the temperature sensor and push it through the small opening. I used one of the new connectors, pushed it back through the small opening, screwed it back onto the oven wall, replaced the circle opening and tried the oven again...unfortunately, there was no improvement in oven temperature! My JennAir wall oven is about 17 years old, and I thought I would try this $30 repair prior to purchasing a new wall oven, but it looks like I will have to do some overtime and buy a new oven. Any other suggestions would be welcome.