911410 - Instructions

Easy

The first task is to turn off the breaker so there is no power coming to the oven. I learned in the hard way that even though the oven is turned off, there is still a hot wire connected to the bake element. Next,I removed the oven door and shelves. Then I used a nutdriver to remove the two screws holding the element in place. I expected to find a plug, however the element is connected to two wires buried in the insulation. I pulled the wires off of the bake element, connected them to the new element and put everything back together. This is not a difficult task.

basically unscrew two screws, unplug, plug new one in and screw the screws back in.

Initially replaced thermostat sensor but unsuccessful. With some help from internet repair, the removal and replacement of the electronic board was easy given the labelling on the new board was essentailly identical to older model.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I plugged in the new element and proceeded to clean the oven which is what I was doing when the problem occured.

First I unplugged unit. Theni removed the two screws that hold the element in place . Then went to pull the element out to disconnect the two wires,but was having alittle trouble. There for I removed the large plate(cover) on the back of range,and removed the wires from this location. Put the new element in place,reattached wires,screwed back plate back on ,and pluged back in.

Before you get started on this be sure that you already have the Bottom Cabinet Trim Assembly (item #PS952490) either ordered or installed. We were not aware that you had to order both trim items separately which meant we had to remove the oven door twice. Using the screwdriver to pull back the door tabs, we first removed the oven door. The trim installed very easy. We just lined up the holes, pushed in, and then down on the trim to lock it in place. When reinstalling the oven door, be sure that door latches are almost fully extended before reinserting them into their slots.

Took back panel off unplugged sensor and replugged in and worked like a charm!Sears wanted $400 and was going to 'overrepair"Got the 60 dollar part on here. UPS shipped to wrong address and customer service refunded my shipping and was excellent! would definetly use again!thanks

Feedback on site warned me that broiler element is only connected to oven wiring with press-on spade lugs rather than screws. Even with care I managed to 'lose' a wire and had to retrieve it with section of stiff coat-hanger wire bent into a hook. Coming off that experience, I soldered the spade terminals together before reassembly to avoid a repeat. New element, however, failed to rectify problem. Professional technician found main control unit defective -- a $300 part including installation, but at least GE still has it available. My advice to others in this situation is to remove old element before ordering a replacement, and test with meter to see if it's defective. It may or may not be worth going beyond an element replacement to you.

nothing to it.

Removed oven from cabinet and replaced oven control board, door lock was included in package,installed it also, installed new limit sensors. removing the connections from the old control and putting them on the new one was a little difficult, just have to be gental,plyers worked well, the new control had revised selonids that had 4 terminals and I only had 2 wires, one for bake and one for broil, the selonids had paint dots to show you which ternimal to hook the wires to, yellow on bake and violet on the broil, Lb1 had a stamp on the circuit board next to the side ternimal, the other two ternimals were blank for me. It would be real nice if a diagram was included, even after contacting GE answer center and requesting a diagram, they only had the orginal print that came with the stove, revised the board and not the blueprints, see how that works, call a tech to hook up 2 wires. Put oven back in cabinet and no more error codes.

Remove 2 nuts attaching element to oven. Pull element out 1" to 2" exposing electrical leads. Pull leads off old element. Replace with new. Toughest part is seeing the elements in a dark oven. Have a light handy.

I simply removed the old one and installed then new one. No special tools needed.

The part was just like the old one and would have been an easy fix except our range suffered from a lighting hit. The clips had melted together. Called a dealer and asked about a new wiring harness. He said in those cases just cut the clip off and hard wire with wire clips,or firecrackers. We used wire nuts and taped all together and the oven works just great. Nothing is ever as easy as it should be.

I was attempting to replace the broiler element on the oven, but I discovered that the wiring may be the actual problem. I suggest before you order parts for a broiler repair, that you test the wires to ensure that you have continuity. I will have to trace the wires back to the source (the other element works fine) and see if I can find the problem with the current. I will keep the broiler element I ordered until I can confirm that the old element works.