Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
broiler was not lighting all the time
the broiler would light once in awhile and it appeared that the igniter was working. But it wouldn't let enough current through to open the gas valve. The nuts holding it on broke off but drilling them out and replacing with two sheet metal screws worked ok. Don't know how that will hold up to the heat though. The wiring was easy to connect ( wire nuts) but the lead wires from the stove are not that long so all the operation had to be done way in the back of the oven enclosure.
I really can't add much more to the very good instructions already posted. You will need a flashlight to see the spring -- when connected it stands vertical with one end connected to the hinge. There are 3 holes you can connect to -- I used the middle one, #2. The other end of the spring is anchored to a hole/slot in the stove frame. It is very easy to position this spring. Be careful though, there's a lot of sharp sheet metal in there. You will need a phillips head screwdriver to remove/install 3 sheet metal screws that fasten the hinge to the stove.
Plastic roller on hinge had broken causing door not to open easily
Slid door off hinges. Removed 3 screws which hold hinge in place. Removed drawer to access spring for hinge. Gasped at all the crumbs and crap which had collected underneath the drawer. Cleaned up crumbs+crap from floor. Disconnected spring from hinge and removed old hinge completely. Installed new hinge with 3 screws. Attached spring to hinge - center hole fitting. Slid drawer back in place. Angled hinges outward in order to re-install door. Slid door back onto hinges. Door now operates nice and smoothly. Job well done.
Pulled oven door up and off. Removed old hinge and installed new hinge. Replaced oven door. It was a very simple job. The whole project took less than 15 minutes.
I removed the door by pulling it up (according to the instructions). Than took a philips screwdriver and removed the three screws in each hinge, unhooked the springs and slid the old hinges out of the slots. The new hinges slid into the slots perfectly so the screws were installed, the springs rehooked and the door installed. Real simple.
Pulled the three screws off unhooked the spring then removed the hinge. attached the the new hinge to the spring put the screws back in slid door back on took less than 15 minutes.
The plastic wheel glide that the hinge runs back and forth on was worn off on one side so it was grinding and binding. Remove storage drawer from under oven. Open the door to the special catch position and carefully lift door off the hinges - (not by the handle, hold onto both sides). Take out three screws w/ a hex head nut driver, slip the hinge down into the hole, look under drawer area w/ flashlight and carefully unhook spring, while holding onto spring- pull old hinge out, see which hole has wear (that's the one you want to use of the three), insert new hinge all the way in and hook up spring. Pull hinge out and line up front plate w/ holes, insert 3 screws snugly. Done, awesome probably saved a 200.00 visit from the appliance guy. My husband thinks I'm amazing!
The right hinge was broken and the door would not close properly.
I removed the door by pulling up and away from the hinges. I then removed the drawer. I unhooked the tension spring by hand and noted the opening. I then removed the three screws on the hinge assembly, removed the ole part, and replaced it with the new one. I replaced the tension spring and slid the door back on to the hinges. I did it all in less than 10 minutes.
Replace 4 White Burner Dishes ,4 Grey Burner Grates And Caps. With Black.
There were 3 ? Types of black burner dishes and 3 types of burner caps. The information I collected did not hint about the different sizes. We sent back 2 caps for the proper ones. Meantime 3 of the dishes were on backorder. I installed the one dish I had. Later the 3 backorder dishes arrived. I began to install them when I discovered I needeed more than one size. I am a retired aerospace engineer. I had to use my file and hammer to fit experiences to make up for my parts ordering deficiency. The new dishes, mounting holes, were different than the one I had previously installed . So in order not to return them and wait an additional few weeks , I filed the mounting holes sufficient to be able to mount them. Then I put the next part on and discovered that it did not fit the new location of the igniter . I filed the approx 1/2" dia hole from round to a "d"configuration on 3 parts , that allowed the igniter to function in two of the new locations . The fourth and smallest burner required an additional 1/4" spacer to move the gas supply riser closer tothe igniter. The burners are all working as new. No fire hazards. My wife does not know the goofs I made. I had to use some inventive methods and I'm still her hero. I would caution all di it yourself people to become very familiar with the parts they need. They may all look the same to the novice but there are slight differences that should require replacement and could take away your hero status.
Ok - I LOVE THIS COMPANY!! When I read the other blogs I was a little confused. Ok first choosing the right drip pan for my gas stovetop was a little confusing because there was a cheaper one that look just like mine. I didn't have the model number - so I WOULD have guessed on it. Later I took my stovetop apart and found model number. Found that MY model required the more expensive drip pans. I think this will help people.... (1) Both type of drip pans looked just alike, but the space between the ignitor and the flame was different. The closer one wouldn't have worked. (2) They were categorized as small medium and large drip pans. BUT - they all had the same dimension: 9 inches. The difference is made in the flame area. My stove top has one small flame area, one large and two mediums, that's how you determine which size you need. (3) The ignitor, when you take it off - nothing shows whether the little white ignitor breaks apart or not, and HOW you get it out. Once you remove the little wire holding it to the drippan, don't try to pull apart the white ignitor, it doesn't come apart. Mine had rusty residue attaached, making it hard to pull through. But when I removed the crusty stuff the white thing popped through the hole. (I called a REP to see if the white thing tore apart or not and they weren't sure. So maybe this will help some other woman who is wondering.) This was ABSOLUTELY the easiest and most cost effective way to have a nearly BRAND NEW stove top. And I'm pleased with myself that I did it without any help.
