Enter the code USA15 at checkout to apply your discount. Discount will be applied at checkout when the code is entered & applies to all parts. Cannot be combined with any other coupon or special offer & cannot be applied to a previously placed order. Not valid toward tax or shipping & handling. Discount has no cash value. Discount expires on July 1 at 11:59pm EST.
You've Got 10% Off Your First Order!Save 10% with code at checkout *click to copy coupon code
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Oven would not heat.
First had to disconnect the old igniter by removing screw with a small wratchet wrench. Then pull out approximately 3" of wire from the old igniter, cut off old igniter, attache replacement igniter with supplied wire nuts, shove excess wire back into wiring compartment and then attach the new igniter.
Troubleshooted ALL possible causes and after perusing the owners manual and PartSelect blogs. Can't say it enough, people!! Do your homework- there are 3 possible parts that can cause the oven not to light; Igniter, gas safety valve, or thermostat / power switch assy (oven control knob). SAFETY FIRST...UNPLUG the stove before performing any of the following electrical circuit checks (besides voltage check, which is ONLY for those qualified for electrical circuit maintenance)
Remove oven door by opening slightly and pulling straight up- it will slide right off the hinges. Remove the 2 thumb screws holding the lower oven plate and slide it toward the back while lifting up on rear of plate to clear the front flange and then remove the plate. The burner tube baffle plate will come right off after removing the one retainer screw (1/4" nut driver). (Optional)Remove the whole broiler drawer by sliding it fully open and lifting it up by the front end. Now you'll have clear access to the igniter, which is mounted on the rearward end of the burner tube with two 1/4" machine screws. Disconnect the igniter wire connectors at the gas safety valve and wire harness. Remove it and SAVE the screws for mounting the new igniter!! NOTE: . Handle the new igniter CAREFULLY!! (don't drop it or bang it against anything solid or the heating element will break).
1) Checked t-stat switch on oven knob - good (closed or 0 ohms when turned on). This verifies you are getting supply voltage to the igniter circuit. Lift the oven top by the front corners until the supports lock into place. Locate and disconnect wires on back of switch and measure ohms across switch terminals. 2) Checked voltage at igniter wire terminals with oven knob turned on (this step ONLY for those familiar with proper use of multimeter and training for electrical circuit maintenance). This verifies the gas safety valve switch is closed and correct voltage is available to power the igniter (120V). 3) Since I had proper power to the igniter wire terminals with the oven knob turned on past 200 deg., that verified a malfunctioning igniter. 4) I chose to solder and heat shrink the wire connectors to the new igniter but you can use the supplied ceramic wire nuts. Be sure to leave enough wire length when you cut the wires off the old igniter. Mount the new igniter to the bracket with the screws you saved and be sure to snug them good but DON'T overtighten and strip the threads!! Connect the two igniter wires to the gas safety valve terminal and the harness connector. Make sure the connections are snug!! 5) Reinstall the burner baffle plate and lower oven plate. 6) Remount oven door and turn on oven past 200 deg. The igniter element should glow bright red after a few seconds. Gas valve should open and burner will light a few seconds later. NOTE: Make sure the gas cock for the oven (on the side of the main gas regulator valve) is flipped to the open position or gas will not flow to the oven burner. The main gas regulator valve is located under the range top toward the rear (trace the gas lines if you can't locate it readily)
The repair was easy and not very time consuming. It didn't take very long to fix the problem and thanks to this site, I was able to save the money I would have spent if a repair technician came out to do the same work. Now I can afford Christmas and cook too!
I had to replace the ignitor. The wiring was simple. Just had to connect two wires. The difficult part was removing and replacing the ignitor. It is suspended by 2 screws that are very difficult to access.
I removed lower drawer, removed oven door, took out rear screws to oven pan,removed screws that attatch ignighter to oven wall,disconnected wiring and removed old ignighter. reversed process to install new part. total repair time was about 20 minutes. Also take into consideration that i am a building contractor familiar to appliance repair etc.
Sunday night 4 days before thanksgiving oven wont light
Part arrived day before thanksgiving bent old igniter back and forth till broke off then easily took out screws.Cut and strip old wire, screw on new ignighter this was tough to get a wrench on with the positioning but after connecting those wires and slappin the rest of the oven back together one turn of the temp knob told me thanksgiving was going to happen Thanks to part select I was lookin like a hero!
I first checked the power by pushing oven button, I heard the relay make a sound " CLICK" ,I then knew it wasnt the power .I then removed the oven racks and then I removed the the two screws holding the pan in place. I hit the power button and noticed the ignitor did not glow as it should.I ordered the part and replaced it and had frozen pizza 20 minutes later.
removed screw from heat sheild, unpluged igniter and tested for 110v on wires feeding igniter (ok). removed bad igniter,ordered new one and installed with 2 - 1/4in. hex head screws. cut old male and female plug ends off old igniter, and wirenutted onto new igniter. turned on oven and it works fine. but noticed after oven burner lights, igniter stays on the whole time oven is on. I would think that it should go off when burner lites. Does anyone know if this is normal operation?
The broiler still worked, so I knew the issue was not with the power or gas to the oven. It was easy to remove the inside bottom of the oven to look at the igniter and burner. 4 screws hold the oven bottom in place. After the igniter was in view, I turned on the oven to see if it glowed, which it did not. 2 more screws out and the igniter was loose. The two wires coming out of the igniter go through a hole in the back of the oven to a compartment below the oven. This compartment is accessed by removing the bottom drawer and removing a panel in the lower back of the oven held in by 4 screws. After disconnecting the wires, I attached a thin pull wire to them then pulled the igniter out through the oven door. The pull wires made it easy to feed the new igniter wires through the back of the oven. The rest is a reverse of the process.
took the bottom plates off with philips screwdriver.(note) there are two plates..outter and inner..to get to the two screws on the igniter.Remove igniter(two nuts). Install new. Cut the wires from old(lower part of oven and rewire with porclain wire nuts.Very simple...Partselect was great too..very fast shipping. Will do buisness again.
I removed the oven burner while the igniter attached. put unit on my bench and changed the igniter and reinstalled the burner and reattached the wires to the supply terminals. Tested the unit and it lite up ok.
Got the igniter ordered. Since the original igniter was still on the appliance, I had to cut the wires on the original igniter in order to be able to attach the new igniter with the wire connectors supplied. Make sure not to cut the wire on the original(defective) igniter too short because otherwise you will have to splice again.
This site provides excellent instructions and saved a lot of time and effort.
Replacing the part only requires basic skills and attention to detail. The kit I received included ceramic wire nuts to splice the new igniter to the old connections. Be sure to leave enough wire to mke the connections properly.
I first read and printed out several postings on how others did the job. I read and re-read them and then I started. I cut power to stove and left gas on. I removed door, pushed back and removed bottom burner cover. I exposed the igniter which I deduced was the problem. I removed the front burner screw and the rear screws (2) and the burner came out very easy. I removed the igniter from the burner, made sure which wire went where (I marked them)an snipped them. I used the ceramic caps and spliced the wires. I replaced the burner and turned on the power. I turned the oven knob on and "Viola", the igniter came on and burner came to life. I replaced every thing in reverse order and called it "done". It was so easy with the postings on this subject.
