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Gas dryer would generate heat at the beginning of the cycle but would stop after 5 min and would start making a buzzing noise.
Unplug from electric outlet. Use putty knife to press on two brackets holding the top cover. Raise top cover. Unscrew two screws holding the front panel. Raise front panel up and move to the right (careful with the wires). Disconnect wires from coils. Unscrew two screws holding a small bracket holding the coils. Replace coils and reassemble everything. (HINT: make sure you drum is empty. Mine contained dump clothes, and it turned out front panel actually provides support to the drum, so mine was hanging there with some weight in it - probably not good).
I followed the instillation instructions provided on your website. They were very informative and spot on. My only problem was my strength. I could not get the drum off of the rear bearing myself, but then I am a 61 year old female.
Had a squelch/squeak coming from the rear of the unit
I looked up a YouTube video on my specific model. Found one that said “basic disassembly”. I watched that and had it apart and back together in no time. Very easy to take apart and put new parts back in it. Re-assembled and since the repair no squeaking.
Watched on-line video, then applied those steps. 1. Pop the front of the deck loose using putty knife to depress clips; 2. Disconnect wires from light and door switch; (Before I disconnected wires from door switch and light, I made wiring sketches to make sure I reconnected in original manner.) 3. Remove lint filter mount screws and mount from bottom of door opening; 4. Cut drum belt with wire-cutters and removed it; 5. Remove drum support clip from top center of front panel; 6. Remove (1) screw from each side of dryer body that hold front to sidewalls, removed front panel; 7. Remove drum by lifting the rear out of the bearing, then moving it forward through the machine front; [While I had the dryer disassembled, I thoroughly cleaned it of lint, dirt & metal filings. The metal filings were from the worn ball hitch and drum support bearing cup. I spent as much time cleaning it out as I did working on it.] 8. Stand drum on gallon paint bucket while removing ball hitch (Use a #2 drywall phillips apex to obtain sufficient seating & torque to remove and reinstall ball hitch screws at rear of drum.); 9. Have a second person hold the new ball hitch in position while starting screws, if necessary; 10. Use nut driver w/5/16" socket to remove bearing retainer & ground ball clip; 11. Install new bearing into retainer clip, insert attachment screws through the holes in both, stick grounding ball in depression on back of bearing as screws are fed through back panel; 12. Hold ground ball clip in place to start one screw, then the other & tighten with nut driver; 13. Start drum belt on motor shaft and position against tensioner pulley; 14. Feed drum through front of machine and loop belt over rear of drum; 15. Slide belt forward on drum as drum moves to rear to keep it aligned with position of tension pulley; 16. Lift rear of drum to place ball hitch on top of bearing, then press down to seat it into bearing; 17. Turn drum to ensure belt alignment, then re-accomplish steps 6 thru 1.
Flame would come on and go out,and little or no heat
Unhooked power,shut off gas, pulled top cover off,two Philips screws one on each side hold the front panel in.took belt off, pulled drum,than change out, flame sensor,M coils,and igniter,be careful igniter breaks very easy,I broke my new one so had to use my old one so really the problem with no heat was either the Mcoils or the flame sensor
I basically followed the video instructions on your website. Pretty simple but ran into an issue pre-threading the 3 self taping screws into the spindle bearing. The screws provided were blunt on the end and did not tap easily at all. I used the existing screws that were much more "sharp" and worked much better. Also, the new screws were Philips drive and due to the amount of torque trying to self tap nearly stripped them out. The old sharper screws were square drive which had a better bite. So basically, I used the old screws to self tap and then used the new screws for the final installation. It took a long time to clean all the lint out from the inside of the dryer. The motor was completely embedded with lint and animal hair. You may want to suggest that a good cleaning may be needed so bring a shop vac...and also something to carefully pick the lint balls out from around the motor armature and bearing area. Overall the video instructions were really a big help!
First of all, the folks at Part Select have been terrific. I balled up my address and they were great in correcting my error and getting the parts promptly to me. They provide directions with the parts. And You Tube, is a wealth of information too. The process is to remove the drum and replace the nylon busihing that supports the drum at the back of the machine. Getting it out was no sweat. Getting the drum back in was a bit more challenging single handed. If I was going to make any suggestion it would be this is a good project for two sets of hands with the second set needed for about ten minutes. The You Tube video I watched said putting the front cover with the drum attached to the back of the unit would be the challenge and they were right. Otherwise, super easy and the results are it's back to "new" condition. Thanks again to Part Select!
