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Both outside door handles turned very beige
Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you
Surprise, I'm not a plumber - replacing impeller and seal kit 8193951A
When the top rack stopped cleaning, I tracked down the problem to the food shredder/chopping blade, and then to the impeller that drives the blade. The knob on the impeller had sheared/broken off. That meant removing the motor, and replacing the impeller. Four hours, a band-aid, and a trip to Home Depot later, here are my suggestions
1. Look for videos – this site is awesome, but they don’t have a video on this particular repair. I found 4 that got me close to knowing what I was doing. 2. Do all the “remove internal stuff” - you had to anyway to find the issue with the shredder/cutting blade 3. Take pictures as you move along, you’ll need them when you have to remember the placement of the water line, drainage hose, wired connections etc. 4. You need a 1/4 inch socket set. A 3/8 drive will NOT work (it won’t fit between the shroud and the base). Don’t start working on the repair, unless you have a 1/4 in socket with about a 6" extension 5. Someone at Kitchenaid should be shot for having the waterline connection facing the back of the unit. Use a short adjustable wrench 6. The order comes with a washer, but when you take the impeller off this model, you’ll see you don’t need it. 7. Placement is everything – there was zero clearance between the bottom of the unit and the floor. Placement of the water line, drain hose, and power line was critical – had to re-position the unit about 7 times to get it to “play nice”. 8. Hindsight – only needed to remove the wire harness for the motor (take pictures) 9. Hindsight – gloves are a great idea – sheet metal is unforgiving
I watched the video identifying the part and the procedure to make sure I could handle this. The phone attendant was also very helpful in making sure I ordered the correct part,which arrived in one day (amazingly). Everything was clearly described in the instructions and if you have done electrical work this would be relatively easy. You will need a specific screw driver bit to open the control panel but everything else is straightforward, just follow the instructions. Works perfectly now (I needed a new control panel about a year ago and Kenmore charged me $229 but it was just over a year since then....) PartSelect is a great service!
Major appliance retailer sent out a repairman to diagnose the issue with the washer. They determined the control board needed to be replaced. They wanted twice the price for the part plus an additional two hundred dollars to return and install. Total time to remove and replace the part less than fifteen minutes. I purchhas same issue. Once again the repair people, (another $80.00 for the second service call), say the control board muased the part from Part Select and installed myself. Washer st be replaced. I will purchase another dishwasher.
Stopped washing in cycle, LED code flashed 6 times
Since I had manual from initial installation I knew code meant heater was malfunctioning. Went to Sears, Lowes..no parts to repair. Instructed to go to appliance repair shop, closed of course...ordered online instead here and received in 2 days. Repair took 20 minutes. Super easy! Do not attempt to use adjustable wrench to tighten, use socket set as plastic electrode casings will be compromised. Takes some tork. Probably saved $100-$150 repair call. Wife was pleased. I was suprised how easy.
Removed back of door to access the screws holding on the air inlet. The top of the door with the controls does not need to be removed, I found out--only the bottom part. Accessing the 5 screws was difficult as there was no space to get the socket onto the screws at a 90 degree angle. Also, there are two plastic shields that fall off when you remove the inlet that need to be replaced, with difficulty because of the accessibility to the area.
PartSelect site is excellent and finding the correct part was relatively simple, although I was not absolutely sure I ordered the right part until it arrived--only one day after ordering, although I paid for the least S&H option.
A Mouse friend had seen fit to chew through the original drain line. I used my Model Number, and was able to order the correct part . It arrived the next day. The job itself is fairly straight forward. You will need to access the rear of the machine. This may include shutting off, and disconnecting the water supply line. (Adjustable wrench). Mine is under the sink, on the "Hot" side. You may also need to un-plug the unit. (recommended) . A pair of (Pliers) will be needed for the spring clamp.
Lost stop from one side of top rack. Rack could be pulled off track.
Looked at other side of top rack which still had the stop. Just had to orient the direction of the stop and push it firmly onto the rack arm. Took a couple tries, but it went in and locked. Works perfectly. Inexpensive and easy fix to to very annoying problem.
1.Check the lines for any obstruction. Gunk can easily build up. I have used the dishwasher for approx. 10 years. I do rinse/scrap dishes prior to loading. 2. Drain all remaining water. 3. Unplug the dishwasher. 4. Grab a towel and proper screw driver. Unscrew the bottom protective plate. Remove the insulation plate. 5. The drain pump is located to the bottom left. Have your towel under it. Unplug it gently. Turn counter clockwise to remove. 6. Install the new drain pump (reverse order) 7. Return the insulation plate. Screw back the bottom protective plate. 8. Plug in
My dishwasher's heated dry cycle wasn't heating up
After pulling the dishwasher out from under the cabinet, I found it underneath near the back right side. I disconnected the old thermostat, unscrewed the clamp holding it into place, put the new thermostat in, screwed it back in and replaced the two plugs. Then I pushed the dishwasher back into place, and it initially didn't work until I found an online forum that was able to identify the reset command for my dishwasher (for the WDT710PAYM4, press any three buttons in a sequence of 1 2 3 1 2 3 1 2 3. After completing that all the lights lit up, and I shut the door leaving it for half an hour) Once the reset finished, the heated dry worked like it was suppose to.
Unplug dishwasher and slide it out from under cabinet. Remove old broken link (a heavy string between two plastic parts) and replace with new one. Slide dishwasher back and plug it in. Very easy and no tools required.
The old seal would often travel with the door when opened.
I removed the old seal and carefully cleaned the track into which the seal was fixed. No tools other than some ordinary cleaning liquid, cloth and small wooden piece to swab out the track. Easy and quick. As a note here, I first used the incorrect schematic for the unit and ordered the wrong seal. However after receiving the wrong part, I made the correction and reordered. I did this over the phone as I needed instructions to return the part. The person taking my order and answering my questions was very helpful and I want to take this opportunity to thank her.