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Inner oven glass broken
I removed the oven door using a phillips screwdriver. It was very easy because I didn't have to worry about the door hinges springing the door back. I'm not really handy and it went very easy.
one of the dual heater on the stove top would not come on
I tried to operate the rocker switch which switches from one element to two or vise versa. There was no resistance on the switch. I fiured it was defective. After I received the switch from Partsselect, I pried the old one out , remove the two wires, which were attached to the switch by spade terminals. I re-attached the wires to the new switch and pressed it, by hand, into the reage console.
I removed the screws holding the door together,removed the broken panel and replaced it with the new glass The part fit correctly and the re-assembly was easy.
I removed the four phillips screws to seperate the oven door sections (that lets the door handle drop off too.) and then took out four hex head screws that hold the glass bracket in place. I had to lift out the front glass to reach the broken back glass. After that, I just slipped the new glass into position and reversed the procedure. It took about 25 minutes. It took just about 25 minutes counting the time it took me to find a hex head nut driver. I'm willing to bet it saved me a bundle, too.
All visible screws on sides & top of door, including screws for the door handle have to be removed. Fairly uncomplicated job, but as the glass that needed to be replaced, was 4th of 4 layers of glass, all needed to be removed from the outside in, in sequence, to get to the broken piece. Then as long as everything was apart, cleaned all pieces, before reassembling. Job much easier with two people, as one can hold & align all layers together, as the other tightens all the screws.
It was extremely easy, I took the two screws out by the hinges and then slid the door up off the hinges. After that I removed all the outer screws, a total of 8, and took the panel off. I then had to remove maybe 6 to 8 more screws in order to get to where the inside glass panel was. I then replaced the glass and put the door back together. It was such an easy job, that if anything else breaks rather than assuming I need to replace it Im gonna look on here to see if it can be repaired.
Removed the face ot the drawer, revealing the screws. Took off the remaining screw holding only a piece of the old handle. Replaced with the new handle and replaced the face.
I removed the four screws holding the element in place and pulled the element out and disconnected the two wire. Installation was pretty much the reverse of the removal except, when I went to put the two screws holding the element to the top of the oven I discovered the holes were rusted out. I looked for inserts to put in the holes but every time I tried different inserts the holes got bigger. I finally realized the oven is just sheet metal so I moved the bracket about an inch drilled new holes and used self-tapping screws.
Second replacement of switch that disintegrated with minimum normal usage.
Removed old switch, moved the one wire to the same pin on new very cheaply made but expensive made in Mexico switch, replaced switch, pugged range back in too AC, operated new switch, created sparks and smoke. Element now glows to max immediately when turned on. Replaced stove problem gone!
The how-to video was helpful, though my old range has an extra spacer panel between the glass-top and oven, requiring an extra couple of screws to be removed, with different-sized Philips head.
1. Replacement part was not exactly like the original. * Inner and outer elements lacked an insulating spacer. * The two wiring terminals/docks were swapped. * So had to attend to where the wires were going. * Worked, just needed some observation & thought.
2. MOUNTING HOLES a. Old element had clips mounted at holes 9 & 45. b. Old element had the four-terminal wiring dock attached by screws at 71 & 72 (also where 0 would be), “ahead” of the small three-terminal port by about 5 number positions. c. Corresponding holes in replacement were not the ones with pre-drilled insulating material. But it's really soft and easily drilled by hand. Probably could have just screwed directly into it. d. Replacement four-terminal dock is “behind” the smaller one by a few number spots.
3. WIRING IS REVERSED As noted, the two terminal docks are swapped, so watch the wiring.
Old terminal docks/ports were directly connected by a wire shunt that tied those terminals to the inner ring element.
The new element also has inner/outer burners, with no separation, but we can trace the wiring. Instead of a shunt, the docks are connected via the element. The right port on the small dock is connected to the inside burner, and that inside burner element exits into the large dock. That’s the inside-burner circuit.
I used the tutorial as a guide, and went ahead with the repair. Because of the older model I was working on there were many more screws to remove, not a problem the repair was simple.
This product was super easy to apply. The part came in perfect condition and when I discovered 2 of the screws had fallen into the actual door (causing the door to apply pressure unevenly to the handle when pulled) fixing it was a snap.