Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
The burner on the top left (closest to front) would not turn off.
1 - Turn off the power from the panel. 2 - Unplugged the range from outlet. 3 - Unscrewed the black hex screws from the rear panel. 4 - Took a pic of the bad infinite burner switch to ensure the correct wires would connect to the new switch. 5 - Removed knob and unscrewed switch, then replaced with new switch. Matched all of the wires to like, L1, L2, P, H1 and H2. If any wires do not exist for your switch, it is ok because not all ranges use all wires.
8" burners were not responding correctly to the switches
Pull range away from the wall. Unplug range. Remove back plate covering the switches. Remove defective switch. Use bent paper clip to press center of terminal connectors and disconnect terminals. Reconnect each terminal of new switch as you go to avoid confusing terminals and connectors. Re-attach switch. Plug in range and test elements. Clean range area. Push range back into place, being sure to engage the anti-tip safety device.
The drawer under the oven had been aggravating me for some time. It was titled and did not close right. Finally, I took it out to see what the problem was and noticed that the glides were broken. I googled the model no. of the stove (figuring I would have no luck) and to my great relief was directed to this EXCELLENT site. I ordered the new drawer glides within minutes and they were literally delivered the next day. Snapped right in, fixed, happy!! It's times like this when I can't figure out how we all lived without the internet!
Arcing could be heard (and later seen) inside the switch
Switch was easy to replace. Some hex head screws to remove the panel and two screws to remove the switch. Though the plug in positions were totally different, all the quick connect terminals were marked on both switches.
after pulling away from wall and unplugging remove 5 screws in upper back panel lift off being careful of sharp edges if part of lens is still in hole push it out towards the front insert lens from front of unit slide light assy over pin on back of lens replace back panel plug in range push back against wall check for level you're done
I saw a chart of the oven door at site after I finally got the model number. I actually thought I had ordered the wrong part, third door in was last pane I thought, but actually this is inner most oven door, glass panel four. I had to find a correct screw diver which took awhile. I thought I didn't have the strength to turn the necessary screws, but easily could with correct screw driver. I followed other stories about removing handle, spring loaded door, so be careful it pops apart. A bit tricky to put back together, cause you have to hold door together against spring when you put cap on and door handle. Remove handle, remove top plastic cap. Will see screws holding glass and aluminum shield in place. Remove shield, need to remove screws holding glass two panes with holder. Shield pulls back and this glass just drops in. Reassemble door.
my dad and i did it together and it was easy. just had to remove the screws on the outside oven door pull the door apart, remove the old glass and put in the new and put the screws back in. hardest part was to get some of the screws out because they had been in so long.
I am a 74 year old single woman. I removed the drawer and replaced the guide which has been missing for some time. Wish I had none about your company a long time ago. Thank you
First I removed the oven door screws, then I removed the outer handle and then there were 2 more sets of screws that actually held 2 panes of glass onto the door.
First I took the door off. Then I removed about a dozen screws. Than my wife insisited on cleaning the other two windows! Since the inside window was broken ;a lot of grease had gotten on the other two windows.She said she would never have another chance. After that I put everything back together. It took about an hour all together.
