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Broiler element broken
Removed broken element, four screws. Element ends were attached to the oven via wire clips. Removed those too. Placed clips on the ends of the new element and remounted to the top of the oven enclosure with the fours screens. Took twenty to twenty five minutes. We had Tbones a little while later. Saved over 125.00 for repairman.
Burner would stay on and the hi-temp safety limit switch is all that would shut it off.
Cut the range power. Removed the top rear panel. Removed the two burner switch screws. Pulled one wire at a time off the old switch and put it on the new switch. Since the terminal location did not match, it was critical to notice the terminal designation on the old and match it to the new switch. Ex., H1 to H1; H2 to H2. Voila! It worked the first time.
The infinite switch arrived promptly and while not a perfect match fit the range fine. It took me a few extra minutes to figure out the wiring configuration, but it was fairly easy. I was very pleased with Parts Select's service.
Burner would stay on high when switch was on simmer
Disconnected power first. Removed 4 screws on the back of the range, pulled the knob off of the switch, removed 2 small screws on the switch(on the front , under the knob) pulled off the 4 wires with spade connections on the switch. Put wires on the new switch, put in 2 screws on new switch, pushed knob on switch, replaced back cover and tested the new switch. Works great. Took less than 10 mins.
Pulled the range out, unplugged it, removed upper back panel, inserted lens through front of control panel, slid the notch on the actual light onto the lip on the back of the plastic lens. Done!
Unscrewed the old element (2) screws, then unscrewed the (2) brackets holding the element up, pulled the element out of the back wall of the oven unhooked the (2) electrical wires and left them hanging. Installation is in the exact reverse order.
Replace the switch in the control panel. Had to take off the back of the range and remove the electrical conection and then pull the switch by unscrewing the screws that hold it into place. The n replacing the switch and then reconnecting the wires then testing. Worked fine.
Large burner would cycle on and off per temp setting a few times. Then it would stick on high. Read other problems people had with the burner switch, which helped to determine the problem. Instillation per video was pretty straight forward; but the issue I ran into was when pulling off the wires from old switch, there was a short wire which connected to the indicator light. The abrupt release yanked the wire which caused the lens indicator to snap. So, when you are repairing the switch, be aware if there is enough slack in the wires to prevent that issue
After removing an oven rack to make room for the thanksgiving turkey roaster, I have NO IDEA, where I might have stowed it away! After searching every cabinet and every closet I realized I needed to do something quick for our annual christmas cookie marathon that would begin on Sunday. It was so easy to order the part, it arrived the next day, and we baked for 5 hours using the 3 racks in the convection oven. Dozens of cookies later... Thank you Parts Select!
I read other experiences on line and determined that it was either the element of the control switch. So I decided to order the control. When deciding I had removed the upper back sheild and put it back on. Subsequently a couple of days later there were popping noises culminating in a flash and the stove went 'dark'. I figured that I had pinched a wire when I put the upper shield back on. I removed the shield and looked for black 'short' marks. None were visible. I went to the electric panel and tried to reset the 60 amp breaker. It wouldn't reset and momentarily the lights dimmed. Uh-oh! Went back to stove and opened area where the cord connects to the stove. Direct short- a lose terminal block bolt had welded itself to the chassis! I redid all connections and lined inside of stove back with duct tape- also redid the connections with bolts, nuts and lockwashers covered each with electrical tape. Now reconnecting electric I put the new switch in. Removed the knob from the front and started to transfer the wires from the back. This was a little confusing because the control I received looked different from the one in the stove. After some checking I looked closely at the terminals on each control and they had tiny number/letters on them like H1, Li, H2 etc. So I just transferred H1 0n one cntrol switch to H1 on the new switch- L1 to L1 and so on. Put it all back together, turned on power and everything is working great.
Took back cover off 2 screws held the switch then moved wires one at a time from old switch to the new one put everything back plugged in stove everything worked
I disconnected the power cord,took the top back plate off,the switch knob on the switch I was to change,the two screws holding it.pull the old switch out,place the new one in the holder,replaced the two screws that holds the switch and took the wires off the old switch one at a time and placed them on the new one in order on new switch.replaced the back cover and plugged power cord back in.turned range on,it was good. r taite,
I watched you vedio and done just as the vedio told me how to change the switch. When I got the switch on pluged it in turned it on and every thing work great. thank you very much.
