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My oven door seal was worn and did not seat properly. It leaked heat.The infinite burner was not warming in the low heat positions
I followed two very good videos on how to do the repairs. It took longer to clean all the disassembled parts and the glass than it did to actually do the repair. A word of caution: Be sure to lock the door hinges in the open position before you lift out the door. They must be locked open to put the door back on. It's difficult to lock them open once the door is removed. Also when you replace the screws get them all aligned in the holes before you lock everything down. The infinite burner switch was pretty easy to replace but watch out for sheet metal cuts when you are removing the back of the stove. I recommend gloves. My stove has a 12 inch infinite burner, but the parts list only mentions a 10 inch burner. Before I ordered it, I had to call the company to verify that it could be used for the 12 inch burner as well.
Oven would not heat or sometimes hold heat to set temp
I was able to find the most common reason for my oven's symptom by searching online. I searched for the part I needed but was not confident that I would get the correct part until I looked on partselect.com. After verifying the part number with my owners manual and looking at the video on their website, I decided to order. PartSelect shipped the part as expected, and I was able to install it in less than 30 minutes. The only tool needed for installation was a nut driver. My oven is now working like new.
Many thanks to PartSelect for their comprehensive website and fine service.
Called fridgidaire and they told me the a F31 code means my temperature sensor is not working. So I ordered one online. I installed it and I still have F31 code and still won't work. So what now? Do I trust them to tell me another part?
An aluminum saucepan had overheated and melted onto the element.
Unplugged the element and the melted on pot. Plugged in the new element. I thought I might need a whole new cooktop but a new element was very easy to find online.
Arcing could be heard (and later seen) inside the switch
Switch was easy to replace. Some hex head screws to remove the panel and two screws to remove the switch. Though the plug in positions were totally different, all the quick connect terminals were marked on both switches.
First I unplugged the element that wasn't working and switched it with one that was to confirm that it was the burner element, and not the cooktop wiring, that was the problem. Once that was confirmed, I ordered a new element from partselect.com. Upon arrival of the new element several days later, I plugged it into the empty plug on the cooktop and voila, we're cooking on all 4 again.
1. Order part 2. Remove 2 top screws holding vent cover and carefully remove cover 3. Open door all the way and lift, door will come of the microwave 4. Set door on a flat surface facing down 5. You will need a flat screwdriver,carefully set the screwdriver between the door and the black plastic and pry out completely 6. Remove screws holding handle. (This will be a good time to clean the inside of this door) 7. Attach new handle tighten screws 8. Put black plastic back in door and press on all around make sure that is set in place 9. Re-install door and vent.
I just plugged it into the receptacle on the stovetop and turned the thing on, and it worked! I'd been without the 4th burner for quite some time. Nice to have it back!
had to replace a piece of the wire harness and als o the surface element prongs were melted so i replaed them and now the stove is working perfect..thanks parts select you saved me hundreds of dollars,