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While removing burned out light bulb, the glass cover fell to the floor of the oven and broke!!
Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)
Replaced Bake Burner Tube on Frigidaire Gas Range Model FGGF3058RFC
The installation of the bake burner tube went well. I followed the instructions within the Video as it pertains to replacing the Bake igniter. That video also describes the removal and replacement of the bake burner tube. The original screws that mounted the igniter to the burner tube bracket were damaged. I replaced them with 18-8 Stainless Steel Serrated-Flange Hex Head Screws, 8-32 Thread Size, 3/8" long. As noted in the video, the oven bottom panel is removed using a flat head screwdriver. For all other screws I used a 1/4" socket and ratchet. A Nut Driver would have also worked just as well. On initial start-up after the repair there was a minor light odor from the flame coming into contact with the new metal burner tube that dissipated within a few moments. In all everything went very well.
The youtube video clearly described how to remove the back panel and how to replace the probe. The repair took maybe 20 minutes to complete and 1/2 of that time was spent cleaning behind and underneath the range! Range is working perfectly now!
My five-year-old Frigidaire Gas stove was giving an F 10 code.
I looked up the problem on YouTube and it said it was the oven temperature probe was going out. So I ordered the probe and it was shipped out, received within two days. Took out a few screws on the back of the stove installed it, put it all back together and it’s working perfect.
I couldn't unscrew the leveling foot because it was rusted and corroded. The bracket holding it was easy to remove so I took the bracket with the corroded foot off and replaced it with the new foot and bracket. Very simple. I made sure I oiled it so it wouldn't rust again.
first the temperature sensor then the igniter. started to do the igniter by using common sense then I used YouTube which made it a lot faster. the temperature sensor installs from the back of the stove, the igniter installs from thr front ie, the drawer and inside oven.
First we replaced the wiring harness because a multi-meter said it wasn’t getting power. That was only partially true. The wiring harness was burned looking so we just kept it instead of sending it back. When the spark module got here the burner caps were removed and then the wires were noted where they went on the module and then the power and gas were turned off. The spark module was removed and then the stove was tested and we were back in business.
I followed the video on the website. The probe is on back of the oven. Just unplug part and replace. That was not our fix all though as I later found that the igniter was not working. The igniter is also an easy fix but you access it through the front of the oven. Also an easy swap.
Oven is working great now.
Our issues kind of fell between two of the descriptions so I went with high percentage cheaper fix first.
If your oven is intermittingly getting hot or to temperature of 100, it is probably the igniter.
Have used PartsSelect for Washing Machine, Dryer, Refridgerator and now the Range. Super easy to figure out needed parts and videos walk you through the repair.
Very easy to order,part was delivered promptly and installation was easy.I unscrewed a few screws and lifted the bottom panel out and put the new one in.
oven temp was not heating up to desired temp and using an oven thermometer to confirm
moved the range out to access back removed 5 screws from back panel removed 1 screw from thermostat installed new one replaced screws, done in 20 minutes problem solved