Oven would not come on. If it did, it took a long time to heat up.
Removed the broiler compartment door by depressing the slide stops inward and pulling the door off. Turned off the breaker to the oven. Used a nut driver to remove the old ignitor ( 2 screws ). Cut the wires off the old ignitor close to the porclin. Measured the new ignitor wires to match up with the old ignitor wires and cut them. Stripped 3/8 " off ends of newely cut wires of the ignitor and used the supplied wire nuts to secure them together. Replaced the new ignitor with the 2 screws. Turned on the oven and a cooking I went.
The oven would not light and the house smelled like gas.
I removed the oven floor and subfloor. I detached the old ignighter leaving the wires still attached. I then attached the new ignighter and fed each of the two new wires down through the bottom of the oven floor following the same path of the old wires which were still attached. I attached the new wires one at a time to make sure I connected them to the right place. Then, I pulled out the old igniter. I then attached the oven floors and turned the oven on which now works. The tough part is pulling the oven out from the wall to disconnect the power and turn off the gas. I did not remove the oven door.
Remove two screws from bottom of inside oven door slide oven door up of hinges in side of door has 2 more screws when removing hold handle it does come off at very bottom of door remove all screws cover comes off remove new glass from package and place over brackets put oven door cover back on put screws back on slide back on bracket put last screws on
I had to replace the clock /power panel on the stove. It did not come with a face oover. Both installations were fairly east once the problem was diagnosed. The control part did not show a face plate not included, or needed. I had to reorder the overlay . The job came out perfect and my stove looks like new again.
I cut the wires from the old igniter near where it said to. I then connected the new wires to the old ones, put it back on, the way I remembered it being assembled, but still won't heat up. I tried to get an enlarged detail of where I was working on, but I couldn't enlarge it from your website. My friend, who knows about electricity, worked on it for several hours last pm(He's an electrician), but could not figure it out with the scamatic that was on the range, because he was not there when I disassembled it,
Inner window on my Frigidaire electric stove oven cracked
On this website, I found an instruction manual for this stove. There were 2 pages about how to change the glass on the oven door, including diagrams. I'd also checked a generic youtube video on changing inner glass on oven doors too, although the hinges in the youtube demo weren't exactly like those in mine. I printed out the instructions, checked the oven door to make sure the hinges looked like those in the diagrams, set aside a couple of hours on a free day with no other distractions, and did the job. I just kept removing screws from the inside oven door, peeling back the layers of the onion, until I got to the innermost glass, which was cracked. Put the new glass in, put it back together. On youtube the guy said it would take 20 minutes. It took me about an hour. Saved a ton of money by doing it myself.
Oven would not get up or stay up to selected temperature
Pull stove out to get behind it,unplug temperature probe plug. Remove temp probe from oven by removing the screw holding it in place on back of oven. Cut plug off temp probe unit leaving as much lead wire as possible on plug end. Strip wires on new probe and end of plug wires(one quarter inch). Then I used two small butt connectors to join the stripped wires,one for each pair of wires. Two small wire 'nuts' may also be used as the connections are outside the oven and not exposed to the heat of the oven while it is in operation. Hope this helps the inexperienced 'do it yourselfers'--:)
Took 6 screws out holding the top on from the sides. Lifted the top front, popped out the spark module, Took 6wires off & reversed the processed to install the new one. I was really amazed when I ordered it Wednesday and it arrived on Friday. Believe me I bookmarked this site.
Oven was slow to light, strong gas smell, long time to reach set temperature
Unplugged stove, removed floor of oven, removed two screws holding igniter, cut wires to igniter, installed new igniter, cut and stripped wires on new igniter and leads, connected new ingiter with supplied ceramic wire nuts, tested (worked perfectly!), then replaced oven floor.
I first removed the 2 screws that held the oven floor in place. Once removed, I remove the cover plate that covered the ignitor.
In order to get to the ignitor wires, I had to remove the drawer. Once the drawer was removed, I marked which wire went to which spot on the ignitor, then cut the wires. I then removed the old ignitor by removing 2 screws. I then attached the new ignitor with the 2 screws and attached the wires using the enclose wire nuts.
The complete process was very easy, taking less than half an hour. The part with shipping was just over $50. If I paid someone to fix my problem it would have cost at least $200. I'm sure galad I found this web site.
Unplug electicity, Take out all inside pans, unscrew the burner arm, disconnect white power wires to the igniter. remover gas buner, detach the igniter and attach the new igniter to the burner arm. re assemble the burner arm, connenct the white wires to the white wires from the oven just below the igniter. Put all pans and guards back in oven, plug in and test.
Unplug electric , remove old igniter, cut wires, shorten new igniter wires, strip insulation, wire nut together, attach new igniter, plug in electric, fire it up. Worked great.
Removed 2 screws to oven bottom Remove one nut that holds gas rail deflector Removed 2 screws that held Igniterto the fuel rail Cut 2 wires to the Igniter attached 2 wires from new Igniter using ceramic wire nuts (Suplied with new part) Install same as removal
