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Oven wouldn’t get up to temperature
I removed the sensor from inside the oven with a 1/4” nut driver, pulled the sensor out slowly and then took the connection apart and found out that the connector was different, I cut the connector off of the oven side and then cut the connector off of the new sensor and wired it together. I am still trying to find the ceramic nuts. My oven is working for now. Very easy fix, just wish there were ceramic wire nuts with the new sensor
Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....
No power to burner until after dial setting 3 reached and would not reach highest setting.
1. Remove all four control knobs. 2. Unscrew all four plastic "nuts" found under each knob holding front panel to stove. 3. Lift front panel off. 4. Removed all Phillips screws holding metal shield to which control switches are fastened. 5. Lift entire assembly up. 6. Remove two screws holding bad switch to metal shield. 7. BEFORE REMOVING ANY WIRES LABEL EACH WIRE ACCORDING TO CODE EMBOSSED ON BACK OF BAD SWITCH. These will be H1, H2, L1, L2 and P. They are not in the same place on the new switch as they are on the old one. The reason for labeling is that in case you make a mistake you have this back-up to go by. Also to double check your finished job.If just one wire is connected to the wrong terminal a disaster will happen. 8. Remove each wire, one at a time from the old switch and connect it to the correct terminal on the new switch as indicated by the codes on the back of the new switch. When done double check to be certain the labels on each wire match the code for the connected terminal. 9. Slide furnished bushing onto the new switch. 10. Insert new switch through the back of the metal shield and attach with the supplied screws. The old screws were too short in my case so be certain to use the ones supplied with the new switch. 11. Re-attach the shield assembly to the stove. 12. Install the front panel back over the switch stems. 13. Secure the front panel with the four plastic nuts. 14. Install the control knobs. 15. Test the new switch.
Broil worked on the stove, however in bake mode, the oven did not make temperature. Turned off the stove, unscrewed and inspected coil. I noted there was a section of the coil that had a "corroded" appearance. (it was evidence of the coil being burned out). Checked with a ($9.00) voltmeter, showed infinite resistance. Found the original envelop for the stove taped to the back of the oven from 1973. It has wiring diagram with schematic and noted the coil was 3000 W, 19 ohms.
Bottom Line found comparable replacement online and tested resistance, measure dimensions of the old coil, matched with Watt rating, replaced, tested installed and works great, Oven has been in use for a couple weeks now. New stove would have been around $500.00. Not to mention some remodel work, as the house is old and stove is a built in.
Coil was $60.00 and should buy the time I need until I remodel the entire kitchen.
I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing. Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening. The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block. I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight. The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions. Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.
my mother blew up the old element. she wanted to tie it for 8 minutes but set it to 800 deg. f. lol:)
searched on the computer for the name and part number that was damaged, found that it was the bake element so i ordered it with part select.com. when it arriver three days later (as expected) i disconnected the gas and electric to the range and simply removed the old element with a phillips screw driver. installed the new element, hooked the gas and electric back up and began cooking again...
While removing burned out light bulb, the glass cover fell to the floor of the oven and broke!!
Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)
Simply took oven out of wall, removed back plate, unplugged old sensor, went in the front and unscrewed old sensor, put in new sensor, went in back and plugged in new sensor, put on back plate, push oven in wall. Turn on power
1. Turn off power to the electric oven 2. Removed the two screws in the top side of the oven that hold it into the cabinet. 3. Made a support to set the oven on once you remove it from the wall. Or set it on the floor. You will need help this is not a one person job. 4. Used a Philips head screw drive removed the back of the oven panel. I did not have to remove the whole thing just took out half the screws and the electrical plug for the temperature sensor is right on the edge. 5. Unplugged sensor 6. Took out the two screw on the inside of the oven that holds the thermal sensor in place. Pulled it out the front. 7. Side the new thermal sensor in place replace the screws. 8. Pull the plug out and plug it back in. Check and push the insulation back in place where the thermal sensor. 9. Replace the back and replace the screws. 10. Slide oven back into the wall. 11. Replace the two screws that hold the oven in place in the frame. 12. Turn power back on Check the temperature
I usually try the cheapest part to replace when I come to a fork In the road but I wasn't home at the time and my other half called in the "expert". He said it was the clock timer and it would be $450 to replace it. She sent him away and I bought one online for $200 and put it in only to find out that it didn't solve the problem. Did some reading and found out that it could be the sensor. Put an ohm meter on it and found that to be the problem. Left the new clock timer in it anyway so now we're good for another 100,000 cookies or 1000 pizzas, which ever comes first
Drawings on web site somewhat hard to read, resulting in more disassembly than actually necessary. Turns out, simply removing the threaded plastic securing rings around the bases of the controls frees up the faceplate, and allows access to the phillips screws that hold down the bracket. Then it's a simple matter to replace the control unit by swapping out the leads one at a time from old to new. Be careful when re-attaching those plastic securing rings, they can cross-thread pretty easily.