Cooktop switch control quit controlling temperature properly
1. I cut off the circuit breaker for the stovetop and removed items on the shelf directly under the cooktop 2. I looked under the cooktop and unscrewed the two screws holding the panel under the switch controls and removed the panel. 3. I pulled the knob up off of the bad cooktop control switch. 4 I unscrewed the two screws holding the bad cooktop switch control. 5. I looked under the cooktop and pulled the bad cooktop control switch down so I could remove the wires connected to it. 6. I got the new switch control and put the wires from the old control onto the new control, one-at-a-time, to the same labelled connection on the new control, which was a somewhat different arrangement. 7. I worked the new control up through the wires and put the knob shaft up through the hole in the cooktop. 8. Back on top, I installed the two screws I had removed from the old switch control to hold the new control to the stovetop. 9. I reinstalled the control knob onto the control. 10. I turned back on the circuit breaker for the stovetop and checked out the operation of the new switch control. It worked fine. 11. I turned the circuit breaker back off and reinstalled the panel cover under the switch controls, with the two screws I had removed earlier. 12. I turned back on the circuit breaker for the stovetop. 13 I put the items back onto the shelf directly under the stovetop. 14. Job done!
Followed the procedure used in replacing the previous switches. The part came without a bushing needed to adjust the height of the knob sticking above the surface of controls. Fortunately, I could use the bushing from the previous part. I suggest a bushing should be included with this part.
Followed the parts select video. However there were differences. Four screws to release stovetop from brackets very difficult to break free even once correct bit identified. No spring clips but studded screw and coil springs let elements fall right off underside bracket. Need fours hands to hold back in place to screw bracket back in place to hold elements.
Burner eye would only produce High Heat on all settings
Ordered a new Surface Burner Switch to replace the failed unit. When I opened the burner lid, I could see the insulation on all the wiring for the burners had fallen apart and wiring was exposed. The wiring for all 4 burners was exposed as the insulation had deteriorated and fallen off over 80% of the circuits. It was just blind luck there was not a fire or an electrical failure on a grand scale. I replaced the wiring and burner connection assemblies as they also showed signs of age and deterioration. Had the switch not gone bad, forcing me to look into the wiring assemble, there very likely would have been an electrical fire. In a 220 volt appliance, electrical fires are a lot more excitement than I need.
After turning off the power to the unit, we took it out of the countertop and unscrewed the base of the unit. We then unplugged the damaged coil and plugged in the replacement part. We then screwed the base of the unit back on and replaced the unit in the countertop. The largest burner now works.
Shut power off to appliance. Replaced burner switch. Removed three screws in access panel to get to switch. Removed two screws that held switch in place. Removed wires from old switch and attached to new switch. Replaced switch screws and then replaced access panel screws. Easy fix. Saved an $85.00 service call fee.
Very simple, just removed three screws and pulled the top out and turned over and then removed the two screws holding the support bar. Removed and installed the element.Surprised to see that the element burned out in such a short time.
"hot" indicator light on glass cook top burned out
After removing pots / pans in cabinet below cook top and turning off the power, I was able to remove the panel held by 2 screws. Pulling the old light out was just a little difficult as it came in pieces. New one popped right in, hooked up terminals, replaced the panel and that was it !!
I ordered the 8" burner switch and two of the screws! I flipped the surface top up side down and removed 2 screws that held the cover over all the switches. I flipped it right side up to remove the 2 screws in the bad switch, flipped it over again to switch the wires from bad switch to new one, being careful to keep the letters and numbers matched. Replaced the 2 screws on top side and replaced the cover on the bottom and went back to cooking! Very easy!
Removed 2 screws located underneath the front lip of the range top. Lifted range top and supported. Removed the 2 screws at either end of the support bracket. This bracket holds the elements in position. Be careful not to let the elements fall out when removing. The elements are now free to replace. Swap out the old with the new and be sure to reconnect the wires to the correct terminals on the new element. I did 1 wire at a time so as to not make a mistake at reconnecting the wires. Then replace the support bracket with the 2 screws and lower the range top in place and put back the 2 screws that hold the range top in position. VOILA!! Success. It works. The wife is now happy again:)
hinged burner up to the rear. removed hex nut to unmount old switch. 5 wires pushed onto new switch same orientation.mounted switch with 2 very short screws no problem very easy. turned breakers on checked operation a- ok.