Enter the code USA15 at checkout to apply your discount. Discount will be applied at checkout when the code is entered & applies to all parts. Cannot be combined with any other coupon or special offer & cannot be applied to a previously placed order. Not valid toward tax or shipping & handling. Discount has no cash value. Discount expires on July 1 at 11:59pm EST.
You've Got 10% Off Your First Order!Save 10% with code at checkout *click to copy coupon code
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Burner did not heat up
Access to burner nothing like on-line videos:
1) Remove 4 screws under front control panel. (Oven door needs to be open.) 2) Remove 2 flat head screws on sides of control panel. This will loosen control panel. Capture control panel to keep from hanging from wires/connectors. I used hooks made from a wire hanger. 3) Remove 2 screws to remove two steel panels on either side of stove. 4) Remove rear screw of the 2 front screws now exposed and 2 rear screws near top of stove. 5) Carefully flip over glass top being careful not to pull on the wires. 6) Identify burner to be replaced. Note 2 numbers where two clamps are attached to burner. 7) Using 3/8” nut driver, remove screws to allow removal of burner. Remove wires per included instructions. Remove burner. 8) Place new burner under clamps and align to the holes by the two numbers noted in step 6 above. 9) Connect wires to new burner as per included instructions. 10) Reverse removal steps.
I followed the instructions as provided. When I finished I noticed the switch was 1/4 turn out from the off position mark on the stove. So I pulled the stove back out and took the back panel off again pulled the knobs back off took out the screws that held the switches in place and rotated the switch 1/4 turn counter clockwise. Then I replaced all the screws and knobs . Then I replaced the panel and shoved the stove back in place. One of the burners was an eight inch and the switch doesn't work as well as it could. However there was not a direct replacement for the eight inch burner.
Element was sent by buyer, As they recommended, when model of stove given to them. It was upper right rear. When element came. First took off old element. ...Match both element , new element did not look exactly the same, small variation. It did not come on.. I moved old element from left side to right side . Old element worked on both side .. tried new element on left side also.. still didn't work.. so I called right away and explained.. new element did not work.. not defective, but, just wasn't the right one.. I had a specialist came and check it out also. I was told wrong element.
Removed cooktop, wiring and coil. Marked where wires went on limiter tabs. Ordered coil 1200 Watt, received a 1500 one. Sent back to PS with prepaid shipping label {great}. New one had a different limiter tab arrangement. The instructions included warned this but doesn't tell you where to put the wiring. Instructions say to remove the old limiter and put it on the new coil but this can not be physically be done plus who would want an old limiter on a new coil. Found a YOU TUBE video on how to test and place wires on limiter switches which shows the number letter sequence on the ceramic part. Maybe PS will put that info in their instructions. Coil works great !!
top electric element (broiler) burned up/melted/dropped in several parts onto oven floor
I checked out Maytag.com - found the parts page on my computer - found the top oven element - ordered it from Part Select - it arrived just a few days later......
Before it arrived, I removed the damaged electric element from top of oven - easy.
Oven was ready for me to install new element - the video on your website was perfect - it helped me remove the old & install the new element from Part Select. It took me about an hour.
Thank you for your fast service, good instructions & the video!
I'm an 84 year old female. Did this by myself! Thank you!
Broiler Element on Upper Oven Cracked in several places.
I've been trying to remove the bracket at the roof of upper oven so I can get to the broiler element itself. The screws are in place so tight, the won't move. I've used regular as well as ratchet screwdrivers and the screws still won't move. I don't want to spray WD 40 in oven because of a possible fire hazard, so I haven't changed out element yet. Tried calling customer service for advise, but to no avail. All other screws loosen easily. What should I do next.
This was the easiest repair I have ever done. The element was shipped right away and I received it in about 3 or 4 days. 2 screws were removed and reinserted to replace the heating element.
after removing the element as decribed, my husband replaced the new element with the screws removed and it worked like new, less than 10 minutes and we appreciated so much the element was received so quickly.
Broiler element broken, burned and arced about 4in from rear of oven
1) Unplugged the electrical cord and removed the oven door (only when easy); and, jockeyed the oven into better working area. 2) Removed about 9 screws holding rear sheetmetal backing plate to disconnect each of 2 electrical wires from the old element. 3) Removed 2 screws holding element to back of oven and 2 screws from small bracket supporting end of element to top of oven. 4) Replacement element was severely damaged. It was at the very bottom of a box 20 by 15 by 15.5 inches high with the large continuous bubble wrap stacked only on top. Each of the wire ends were sharply bent; one almost 180 deg. pointing in the opposite direction, and the other about 120 deg. The element itself was about 4-5 inches out of square. Using two large needlenose pliers I carefully bent each wire back to its proper place. Next I carefully exerted pressure on the element to gradually form it back to as near its correct shape as possible. (Only the inside of the shipping box showed the signs of possible damage.) 5) Installation- The element, from inside the oven, was placed back through the two holes in the rear of the oven and secured with 2 screws. 6) The bracket supporting the front of the element was slid onto the element and attached to the top of the oven. 7) Attached the 2 electrical oven wires to the 2 element wires, making sure there was good clearance to prevent any short circuit, plugged the oven cord in to 230volts, and checked it out with power to the broiler to give myself some confidence that the damaged wires would not quickly break. It seemed to work and I unplugged the oven. 8) Reinstalled the backing plate with the original screws, plugged oven back in, and moved the oven back to its place and replaced its door. It is working and my wife is cooking.
I removed the two screws retaining the heating element with a phillips head screw driver. Then I pulled the element forward to expose the wire connectors, and disconnected the two wires. I connected the two wires to the new heating element, and secured the new heating element with the two screws.
It's a straightforward remove and replace with two screws. The lower element is most likely to go with years of baking when bake pans overflow on to the element, It can be checked with an electrical probe for resistance and continuity. If the oven is preheating and the lower element doesn't heat that is definitive. We had it checked under the extended warranty but the tech wasn't thorough enough. The extended warranty is of questional value.
upper broiler element was shorted, little fire ball at break
turned off the oven at the main breaker. removed the four screws...two in back and two on the upper holding breacket. removed the element and disconnected the spade contacts by just pulling them apart. measured it. Compared measurements with items in catalog. Found exact match, ordered it. Put it in same as out only reverse. easy.
