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Burner control indicator light
Shut down breaker; remove stove back cover plate (8 screws); remove the control knob; remove knob screws (2); simply remove one wire at a time and replace the coresponding wire to the new control unit; remove the snap ring on the knob bar and snap off to fit the proper length; place the control unit in position and reinstall the 2 screws; reinstall the back panel; position stove and turn throw the stove breaker on; test the burner control.
Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you
removed the two screws that held the cook top on and moved it enough to get to the light switch. Removed the switch and tested with multimeter. Pulled the two wires out of the mounting hole and insulated with elect. tape. Replaced the cook top and installed the two screws that hold it in place. Located the switch at PartSelect on line and ordered it. When the switch came in (the next day), I connected the two wires, and snapped the switch in place, and I was back in business.
It was simple. Unscrewed to screws at the back of the oven. Slipped off the wire connectors then attached the wire connectors to the new part, put the screws back in and we were back in business.
remove the hinge stays they just clip in remove the door. took out screw at bottom of door. replaced trim. replacing the door was a problem i didn't have pins to put in the spring loaded hinges so i used nails to hold hinge in position. so make sure to open oven door first insert pins or nails in hinges then remove door. It would have took 10 min. to do.
broken bottom drawer glide and missing rivet on drawer front panel
Removed the old, broken drawer glide by removing the Phillips head screw. Then placed the new glide into place and fastened with the existing screw.
The rivet on the top of the bottom drawer front was missing. I lined up the drawer front with the supporting bracket behind it and inserted the rivet. All you have to do is tap the top of the pin in the center of the rivet to lock it in place. No rivet tool is needed. That should be explained in the parts listing because I bought the rivet tool before I realized I didn't need it.
Pulled the dial off, unscrew two screws. Pull the switch out from the back. Disconnect the wires from the old switch and connect to the new switch one by one. Set the new switch in place. Sctew the two screws in to hold the switch in place. Push on the dial.
My husband pulled the oven out and unscrewed the screws(in the back) the heating element came right out. He did everything on his own. The only thing he needed a little help with was for me to keep the heating coil flush to the back wall of the oven, while he screwed the new one in. It was a very quick job. The longest part was pulling the oven out to get behind it and sliding it back in.
My wife did it! I got home one night and my wife had done it! That's how easy it was! Trust me, he is no handyman (woman) but she did it by herself. The part came fast, the price was better than any one else's
Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.
2nd 8 inch burner switch in a little over a year to not always hold selected tempurature.
As a former appliance repairman, the installation went just like the repair instruction video. Just use care not to scratch anything and clean behind the appliance and cabinet walls, etc. It's worth a hug and a piece of pie!