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Motor was making a loud noise for several months, then quit
Killed the power and shut off the water. Unhooked and unplugged power, hot water and drain connections to move washer to middle of floor for easy access to all sides. Taking out the the main pump/motor assembly (the "Assembly")required taking out the flat white hot water tube that feeds the upper and middle sprayers. So, I started by taking out the two trays. Then, took out the lower, middle and upper sprayers. Then, tipped the dishwasher onto its front and disconnected the hoses and several electrical connections from the Assembly. Also, unhooked the drain pump motor and impeller from the Assembly since these are not included with the new Assembly. Took out the three sliding retainers to release the Assembly from the bottom of the dishwasher. Took a little gentle coaxing to release the seal between the Assembly and the tub bottom. Took the Assembly apart and found that the problem was the shaft bearing (ball bearings) between the motor and the impeller had rusted and subsequently failed. Therefore, buying just a new motor would have not helped. Inserted the new Assembly into place from inside the tub. Because of the tight seal, the Assembly had to be carefully placed into the tub opening and the seal gently pushed into place by working all the way around in 1 inch intervals. Took about three trips around the seal of the Assembly to ensure a tight, even fit. Otherwise, working unevenly around the perimeter will bind the Assembly and you'll have to remove it and restart. Once in and seated evenly in its place, reconnected the hoses and electrical connections. Installed the drain pump motor and impeller onto the new Assembly. Tested the unit for proper operation and leaks. Found no problems. Then re-installed the water tube, sprayers and trays inside the machine. Helps to jot down steps taken to disassemble so you retrace steps to re-assemble.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Friction sleeve came apart ....would not hold door in place
Pull dishwasher out a few inches. Disconnect spring from plastic connector with long nose pliers. Remove connector. Replace friction sleeve. Replace connector.Reconnect spring to plastic connector. This completes repair.
It is VERY IMPORTANT that you watch the HOW TO VIDEO provided from the BEGINNING, then it will be VERY EASY to do. I took out ALL the screws, I DIDN'T need to do, so it took longer, & made things more difficult.
Follow the u tube instruction. Replacing the pump was very simple and easy. The hard part was getting the dishwasher out of the cabinet and back in again.
On the the lid of the dispenser a tiny tab that engages with a tiny bar that is supposed to hold the lid closed on the detergent until released by a solenoid at a certain time in the cycle. It allowed the lid to open prematurely.
I performed the repair exactly as shown in the online video site accessed by entering the url that came with the order. The video was correct in every aspect.
The tiny little tab on the new dispenser broke on the first use of the machine. Very weak part of the process. We will secure lid to the detergent by another means, which we had been doing for some time anyway. Can't afford another $75 plus shipping. Very weak design.
Only one friction sleeve was broken. So I pulled out the dishwasher to see how the one on the other side went on. It was very easy to replace and I replaced both. Unit works fine now.
drain pump noisy, broken piece of glass caught in pump.
removed kick panel with screwdriver, 90 degree turn of screw. Put towel under drain pump. Disconnect drain hose by loosening spring clip with pliers to provide access to pump. released spring clip on old motor while turning counterclockwise to separate pump from drain reservoir. inspect drain reservoir from inside machine to remove any foreign objects. Installed new pump by indexing attachment flanges to notches in reservoir and turning pump clockwise until locking tab makes audible click. reattach drain hose insuring hose is contacting "stop" ribs on drain hose pipe. Run wash cycle on machine to insure there are no leaks. Re-attached kick panel.
I closed the water at the tank and opened all the hot water faucets in the house thereby draining static water from the inlet hose at the valve. Then I unscrewed the inlet hose from the valve, unscrewed the valve body from the support bracket under the tub, unplugged the electrical plug from the valve body, and removed the outlet hose. I installed the new valve using the reverse sequence. Then I closed all the hot water faucets, turned on the hot water at the tank, and purged air from each of the faucets. I then started the dishwasher and ran it through a complete cycle, periodically checking it for leaks, and found none. Total time for uninstall and reinstall - about 30 minutes. Not bad for an 80 year old.
The repair was straightforward. The hardest parts were pulling the dishwasher out from the counter and keeping the dishwasher from falling forward when I needed to reach inside. The instructions in the video were accurate. I was very glad I bought the rubber washers, because I could not reuse the washers from the original heating element. Easy enough repair to do on your own.
Dishwasher would not drain. Pump was jammed with broken glass .
Turn off breaker to dishwasher. Remove lower basket. Drain any water using a wet vac. Remove bottom cover plate. Should be 2 plastic screws using flat head screwdriver. Should be able to reach pump. Turn counter clockwise to remove. Disconnect plug wire on pump. Install new pump by turning clock wise. Reattach wire plug. Run a wash cycle with empty dishwasher and check for leaks. Replace cover plate. Done.
Very simple just remove the rakes and then unscrew the covers and pop out the old chopper assembly and replace with the new and then just put all cover back and it works great.
Did the repair, but needed one extra step not described in video:
I followed the directions on the PartSelect Youtube video - very helpful! I do believe the heating element was the original culprit, as it had a "burn" area about the size of a dime that caused it to almost break into two parts. Obviously a point of failure.
BUT - after replacement, it still did not solve the problem of the dishes not drying.
After much web searching, I tried the diagnostic mode on the dishwasher, and that did a hard reset of the logic board and FIXED the problem.
So in all, it required both a new heating element AND a hard reset via diagnostic mode.
The dishwasher is has been in service only 18 months and the seal between the motor and pump leaked, destroying the front motor bearing.
Rather than just replacing the motor and seal, I figured it would be just as easy to replace the sump and pump assembly also. It makes sense because the extra cost is minimal and I have a completely new unit now. The repair is quite simple. Just three clips holding the sump and a few electrical connectors and the unit comes right out.