Enter the code USA15 at checkout to apply your discount. Discount will be applied at checkout when the code is entered & applies to all parts. Cannot be combined with any other coupon or special offer & cannot be applied to a previously placed order. Not valid toward tax or shipping & handling. Discount has no cash value. Discount expires on July 1 at 11:59pm EST.
You've Got 10% Off Your First Order!Save 10% with code at checkout *click to copy coupon code
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Leaking door gasket
Partselect provided me with tracking information for my order, they also provided an installation video. So when I replaced the door seal it was a few minutes to remove the old seal and about five minutes to put in the new one and it was all done.Thanks to Parts select it was a piece a cake
The repair went well with the major problem being I replaced the drain hose without removing the dishwasher from it's position. Due to this I removed the drain end with out being able to see the hose and put it back on by feel. Over all I was back up and running with in 30 minutes and everything has worked very well so far.
The soap dispenser lever had broken off the original unit
Remove bottom valence to get access to 2 screws on the bottom flange of front cover. With those 2 screws removed the front panel comes off revealing the rear side of the dispenser and 6 screws that hold dispenser tightly to the inside panel. Remove 2 wires that are push connectors to solenoid. The unit simply drops out. Installation is just the reversal of removal. Very easy.
First I replaced the lower door seal then I replaced the door gasket. The instructions were clear so both were pretty easy. Unfortunately neither fixed the leak. After further research I discovered that the screws on the pump had become loose. I used a torx driver to tighten the screws. Time will tell, but I am pretty confident that this has fixed the problem.
The top drawer wash rotor hose was leaking badly and as a result allowed uneven water flow to the upper drawer of the dishwasher.
I first had to take the upper drawer of the dishwasher out so that I could get to the faulty part. This was a little tricky as there were two clips that had to be removed from the arm slides before the upper drawer could be removed. I then realized that the faulty part DID NOT exactly match the repair part I received. The original connection wand was in two pieces where the repair part was all one piece. That required a bit of thought before I began the repair. There was NO drawing accompanying the new part, so I had to decide how the part would be connected. After a little trial and error, I determined the arrangement of the repair part and completed the repair. All in all, it went well, but there was a few anxious moments when I first saw the difference between the original part and the new part.
I screwed the rack mount to the spindle using the extra screw I ordered. I removed the upper dishrack's front stops and slid the rack out. I clamped the mount to the dishrack. I screwed the rotor to the spindle with the screw that came with the rotor kit. I slipped the feed tube mount over the end of the tube and clamped it on the dishrack. I replaced the rack in the slides and replaced the front stops.
I had a hard time driving the screws. The slots are crossed but do not seem to be standard Phillips. The screws were hard to drive into the holes in the hard plastic. Before I could drive the mount screw all the way, the slot was too stripped to use.
I guess some food got caught in the water level sense float and caused it to mal function. In the diagnosis process, I removed the arm to clean out any debree in the strainer ( found broken glass). I also found that the two rings mentioned above were worn. I replaced them and all is well. Thank you for fast response with the replacement parts.
Flex tines wouldn't remain up due to broken clips.
First, I removed the tines which were still connected to the top rack by the unbroken parts of 3 clips. (The part of the clip which is subject to breakage is the top, where it allows the tines to be clipped up or released and laid down.) I left the broken clips on the rack as a guide to where to install the new ones. I then attached the new clips to the tines, which is like assembling a puzzle. It would be helpful to replace one clip before all 3 break, so you have an illustration, but it's fairly easy to figure out how to attach the clip as long as you realize the tines need to be released and folded down, or clipped in the up position. With all 3 clips attached to the tines, simply pop the broken clips off the rack and attach the tines to the rack with the new clips. I appreciate the advice from the users who warned against breaking the clips with a tool. It's not really necessary to soak them in hot water. My advice is to use only fingers for installation. Brute force is not necessary... just position and pinch.
I read a couple of stories about how easy these are to break when installing. So I used extra care, and made sure to push carefully in just the right places.
What worked for me was raising the tines of the cup rack to apply some leverage as I squeezed the clips into place with my fingers. No tools. No broken clips. No injuries. No cursing.