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Dishwasher not draining
Actually I ordered the drain and wash impeller kit because it was listed as the #1 cause of failure to drain. I then hired a plumber to install it. He did so and that didn't solve the problem. So I was about to buy a new dishwasher. I then noticed that the second most frequent cause was a problem with the "dishwasher drain check valve." I watched the "partselect" video on how to change that. I didn't have a new one but I thought I would take out the part and see what I could learn. As it turned out it was blocked by a little piece of what appeared to be a walnut chip. I cleaned it out reinstalled the drain check valve and the problem was solved.
The upper sprayer consists of a plastic spinner attached to the top of the washer.
This spinner is attached to a plastic module PN WP3379369 which is held in place by two screws to the top of the dishwasher. I was able to temporarily reattach the spinner by using a hot soldering iron to melt the nylon axle that goes through the spinner. By using a very small metal washer placed on top of the spinner I was able to melt enough off the end of the nylon axle so as to keep the spinner in place and still be able to rotate. By far the most difficult part of this repair is removing the two stops that prevent the upper washer rack being removed from the machine. Doing so requires using a pair of long nosed pliers and taking note of what needs to be squeezed. Even if installing a new part the upper rack needs to be removed in order to get access to this central part.
Well, to make a long story short. My husband isn't mechanically inclined. He tried to surprise me and do it himself.???
I went back to the web site to make sure I'd ordered the right part.?? looked at the diagram and then watched your little video.?? He had the part hooked opposite of what was shown. (The arm wouldn't rotate) So I turned it arround. While he was still??. It took me less that 5 min and the dishwasher is working Great.????
Remove power source, then remove old power cord.Run new power cord through existing opening ang attach to existing power box on bottom o f dishwasher. Install electrical leads and device ground. Reinstall cabinet bottom. Check out operation by running a cycle. All ok!
I poked the old gasket with a fork tine so I could get a grip on the old gasket as I didn't have pliars, pulled it out in less than 4 seconds, folded the new gasket in half and started center top of the slot the old gasket was in and pushed the new gasket in on each side from the top to the bottom. Very easy. I'd say it took me longer to open the package with my teeth than in doing all of the above.
used a screw driver, removed 2 screws, removed broken piece, screwed in new part ....all done :) took less than 15 minutes to do*
i just wanted to let everyone know..I ordered the part on a monday and received it on wednesday I was amazed...the part fit perfectly ...and was very easy to install myself....ty so much ...
It was very simple, the repair took less than 5 minutes start to finish. I removed the top dish rack, took out two screws and the broken part slipped right off the water feed tube. I slipped the new upper wash assembly on the end of the tube and replaced one screw. My dishwasher is an older model and the new part only has a hole for one screw but I cannot tell any difference in stability or performance. I put the top rack back on and the dishwasher is as good as before.
At first, I suspected the door seal was at fault. However, after reading others' repair experiences, I found the dishwasher may leak if the wash arm bearings are worn. So, I took a look at those, and indeed they were quite worn.
After receiving the parts in the mail, I called my 7 and 9 year old kids over. They were excited to open the package, and weren't too disappointed when they found it was dishwasher parts. I told them it was up to them to fix the dishwasher. As I sat on a stool, I instructed them what to do. They did a great job and now it doesn't leak any more.
The washarm bearing ring was completely worn thin and the lower washarm had a greater than usual wobbling
First I removed the nut holding down the lower washarm in place. I then lifted up the lower washarm where it's held in place by the nut. I replaced the two new parts: The lower sprayarm seal that seats underneath the lower washarm and the washarm bearing ring that seats on the top of the lower washarm just underneath the nut. A schematic parts list diagram can be downloaded on the KitchenAid website. The wobbling motion of the lower washarm still seems to have the same amount of play as it had before I replaced the two parts. The lower washarm itself is in fine shape including the nut. I even attempted several other different ways to install the seal and bearing ring, yet the washarm still wobbles when I manually spin it. I called KitchenAid to find out if wobbling of the lower washarm was normal. Unfortunately, the person I spoke to didn't seem to me to knowledgable enough in this area.
The repair was easy. We used the towel in the bottom of the DW hint to catch any falling screws, etc. My husband did drill out the other side of the bracket , since the new part comes with only one hole ( ???why would they do that?) But all in all it was a simple fix and saving $$$$ on DIY is the way to go when possible. Thanks! The part came very quickly. Great service. Your company is great!
