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Inoperative door latch replaced by a redesigned latch
1. Disconnect power at the breaker, 2. remove two wood screws fastening the dishwasher to the cabinet and slide the unit out approximately 2 inches. 3. Remove old latch strike and replace with redesigned strike. 4. Slide unit in and reattached to cabinet. 5. Remove 11 screws holding inner panel of door assembly and one screw holding user interface unit to door. 6. Disconnect snap cable to latch assembly and replace the latch unit. 7. Reassemble.
Unplug the dishwasher,take the screws out of the coutertop,then slide dishwasher out turn it on its side. Then take a torx screwdriver and remove 2 mounting screws. Unplug the wires going into the motor and replace the motor with the new one. But you need to replace the grommet the motor shaft slides up into or it will still leak.
The left side took 20 minutes the right side took 3 minutes. The instructions do not describe how to remove the old assembly but rather just assume you have already done it. It takes one minute to see how the six parts fit together and then you just have to begin disassembling the easiest piece. The final cover removal required a flat head to pry apart two pieces held together in a pressure fit with round tabs locking them in. I was worried about breaking a piece in case the new parts didn't fit properly and I would have to reinstall the old pieces temporarily but you just have to keep the faith and open it up for final removal. Installing the new parts was simple however it would be nice if the images on the instructions were of better quality. The result was perfect and the kit feels more robust than the original parts. There is nothing here an average person can't do with a screwdriver and a little patience.
Removed old tracks. Note instructions do not tell you to remove the back stops one each side.... let alone how. Installing new track is really easy. Place the old lock on the track. Strange they don't arrive with a new lock, it is just a plastic insert and must be cheap. The only tricky part is replacing the rack wheels and height adjuster. If the instructions and particularly the pictures in these, were better it would all have been a breeze. Really worth the effort though!
All of the wheels had broken off and the bottom rack was hard to move.
It was very easy to pry off the old wheel assemblies with a screwdriver and pop the new ones in place. Although the part is called "wheel" it is actually the plastic piece containing two wheels. I thought it was a little confusing to just call it "wheel" as each piece has two wheels. It was an easy repair.
WARNING!!! This is NOT the grommet that goes on the "pump stem" in the center
I purchased this misguided by the official response to "Doug" on April 17, 2018, which at the time was labeled as "most helpful". This is NOT the little grommet in the center. This is a big grommet that goes no the supply pump. This is #14 in the diagram. (#15 is actually the clamp that holds it). If you are looking for the little grommet that goes on that stem on the central recirculation pump, that part is not available, it only comes fused on the sump, and for replacing the sump you have to disassemble the whole bottom part of the dishwasher, pumps, sensors, valves, hose...even this big grommet. A lot of work, and since you are at it, you might want to replace both grommets. If you need THIS big grommet (#14) only, then it is not so much work, just take out one clamp, one connected cable, and the grommet to replace. But check if your machine has reusable clamps, because if not, you might want to order a new clamp. Good luck!
I watched the instructional videos that showed how to replace the inlet fill hose/water inlet a couple of times. The repair was exactly as shown. No trouble at all.
Removed old gasket, cleaned track and replaced gasket-also quit using Cascade pellets and went back to using Cascade powder with a numerical "rating" of 6. The pellets of even 10 caused the washer to leak, obviously too much foam would not float the float to actuate the pump.