Dishwasher would not drain. Pump was jammed with broken glass .
Turn off breaker to dishwasher. Remove lower basket. Drain any water using a wet vac. Remove bottom cover plate. Should be 2 plastic screws using flat head screwdriver. Should be able to reach pump. Turn counter clockwise to remove. Disconnect plug wire on pump. Install new pump by turning clock wise. Reattach wire plug. Run a wash cycle with empty dishwasher and check for leaks. Replace cover plate. Done.
Upper drawer rack stop clip broke caused one side fell off rail.
I followed the YouTube attached with PartSelect email invoice to fix it. I am very happy PartSelect sent repairing video instruction and took me less than 15 minutes to get it done. Awesome!
Dishwasher was leaking at the bottom edge of door.
Ordered the door gasket and replaced it. Worked perfect. The trick was to stretch the gasket a little as it went around the top curvatures. It would stick out some and not sit as flat as on the top and sides. This helped it to flatten down better.
pulled the dishwasher out (took the most time-1 hour) and 30 min. to install new door balance kit and springs. Replace both sides while the unit was out.
After replacing garbage disposal. I referred to you video you sent me when i received the new replacement hose. That made it look very easy to install. Thank you for all your help and support.
First I got online to troubleshoot issue to save mysel from a service call. One of the first UTube videos, a young man said usually the main issue was the lever. He pushed down on the floater. If it didn't click, than the lever below needed to be replaced. Most important to turn off the circuit breaker before beginning the repair. I got on whirlpool.com, Part Select, ordered the lever, which was under $10. And once delivered, was able to switch out the old lever with the new replacement. Part Quote video took me through the process step by step. The lever package was marked that usually it was only 2% of the time that replacing the lever fixed the issue. Of course, I was thrilled, my dishwasher was up and running again. Thank you.
Pulled dishwasher out of compartment, removed all parts underneath. removed inner parts, removed pump assembly. Installed new pump assembly and grommet. Reassembled in reverse order, test ran and unit was operating normal and no leaks.
These wheel assembly that came on the lower rack of my dishwasher were junk! They started falling off within 6 months. I put them back on to the point that the pin in the center of the wheels would no long stay in place, thus the frustrating situation of the wheels falling off often.
Fully loaded top rack would detach from track when pulled out for emptying.
Removed dishwasher from cabinetry to replace tub rollers (4). Replaced roller sets (4) on top rack. Also replace both rails and rail stops. Screwdriver was only tool required for this part of repair. Needed wrench and screwdriver to remove and replace dishwasher in lower cabinetry.
In this case the dishwasher had already been installed for a few years. After removing it, we inspected it and saw it needed a bit of TLC. The transport wheels on the back were missing, making it harder to move around without scratching the tile and some of the original hardware was rusted or broken off. I looked up the parts easily here on PartsSelect using their parts breakdown diagrams and was glad to see what I needed was still available. We had a licensed plumber relocate the hot water line and drain for us to make things a bit easier. A licensed electrician had also moved the power line over to the new location and left a wire sticking out of the bottom of the wall to hardwire the dishwasher in again. We decided to convert the dishwasher to be able to be plugged into a standard 20amp wall outlet instead. We had already purchased a kit with a nice long cord and strain-relief snap on plastic fitting that snapped onto the metal incoming power box on the bottom front of the dishwasher. Using the supplied wire nuts, etc., we connected the wires and ground wire to the proper wires from the dishwasher and ground lug. We put the dishwasher aside and then went to work on converting the power wire coming out of the bottom of the wall, to a conventional outlet. I am mentioning all this because in our first attempt we unfortunately put the receptacle a bit high off the floor and the new power cord plug end, stuck out and hit the back of the dishwasher so it would not go all the way in and was sticking out from under the counter top. I tried using one of those flat adapter cables, but even that still stuck out to far. So we ended up relocating the outlet box as low as we could on the wall and this allowed the plug to stick out into the opening area at the bottom rear area of the dishwasher so it could now be slid all the way in under the kitchen counter properly. I hope that bit of trial and error will save you some time if you ever decide to go the pluggable route too. The new installation required the use of the dishwasher side mount brackets, so we had to purchase a replacement set of those, complete with the hardware to screw them down.
This project took a bit longer than planned due to the power plug problem, one which we will remember for any other similar appliance relocation projects, as well as the time to get our new parts in that we had to order, but other than that the rest went smoothly and the dishwasher was relocated successfully.
