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Wheel came off. Hub that held the wheel to the assembly got burned by heater.
Look at the way that 3 remaining Wheel Assemblies were attached to rack, Then pop off the offending assembly and attach the new one. Less than 5 minutes.
based on advice here, concluded the problem was likely that the part "Valve-Inlt" was defective. Our dishwasher intake line is copper and had already developed a partial kink from sometime in the past, so I had to be careful. The final connection to the new part had to happen in place: very close to the floor and underneath, because I didn’t want to stress the copper line. Plus, the shutoff was defective, and it was always leaking while I connected. Awkward. As I was threading on, it started to look like it might be cross-threaded, so I stopped and reversed. Slid the washer back out and disconnected the drain line so I could tip the dishwasher u and inspect. It was going on cross-threaded. Not hard to happen on a metal to a plastic connection. To solve, I carefully made very small bends in the copper inlet line until when it would later be brought up underneath to connect to the inlet valve, it would be as perfectly aligned as possible. This worked. As I tightened, it went a little easier and the leak stopped. A good moment. Tightened a bit more, but didn’t want to overdo it as that can cause other problems. Now the moment of truth: let’s run it. DISHWASHER WORKED AGAIN. Runs fine now and we are glad to have it back. Was satisfying I could do this on my own. The advice and guides here made that possible. Thank you.
When the door was in the closed position there was no power to the unit. The control panel buttons would not put the dishwasher in any cycle. the panel lights did not work.her
I first verified that there was 120 volt line voltage getting to the unit. I removed the outer door panel by removing the 10 torx screws located around the panel on the tub side of the door. Two of the screws are longer so note there location for reassembly. The door handle can now be removed. Pull the outer door panel away from the inner panel and remove the connector to the control board. Set the outer door aside. Remove the connector to the door latch.The latch is snapped in position at the top side. Pry using a screw driver to release. Snap new latch in position. Snap on connector, Reassemble door by first reconnecting the control panel connector. install plastic door handle. Mate door to inner panel. Note interlock tabs between outer door and inner panel near the bottom area. Install the 10 screws. The two longer screws are at the top holding the latch and handle.
Dishwasher Not Heating top rack wet dishes and heating rod looks rusted
It took all of 30 minutes from beginning to end remove the old parts and replaced them and run a diagnostic test before I could wash dishes. The parts were exact and Parts Select has always provided the right parts, shipped fast and never disappointed me.
The video included with this part is perfect. Unplug the dishwasher, take off the front trim piece, remove the drain hose from the pump, unclip the power, press the little clip that holds the pump in while turning it counter clockwise to remove. Then just do that in the opposite order to put the new one in. Just make sure you hear it click when you twist the new one on so you know the clip has engaged. Super easy.
The old filter was warped, allowing food into the sprayer system
Replaced the strainer. This keeps the two sprayers clean/clear so they do not clog up. Dishes are cleaner now. Note : if your sprayers are clogged it is a long process to clear out the sprayers. Dishes will not be clean until your sprayers are all cleared.
PULLED BROKEN CLIP OFF AND SQUEEZED NEW ONE IN. I HAD TO USE PLIERS TO SQUEEZE TOGTHER SINCE i AM 77 YEARS OLD AND HANDS ARE NOT THAT STRONG ANY MORE. I HAD ALSO WATCHED THE INTERNET VIDEO TO MAKE SURE I COULD HANDLE THIS CORRECTLY. 10 MINUTES MAX TO UNLOAD TOP RACK AND PUT TOGETHER.
Turned off water supply to the unit. Removed plastic cover at bottom front. I only had to disconnect the copper water line to slide the unit about 1/3 of the way out. I then was able to reach the wires, disconnect them and use a stubby box/open end wrench (5/8? don't remember for sure) to remove the plastic nuts. I then opened the door, removed the bottom basket and slipped the element right out. Installation of new part was reverse.
Pulled washer out far enough to put 2x4’s under front feet. Removed front panel, I clipped wire connector and unplugged it. Pushed plastic locking lever in and twisted unit counterclockwise. Wiped inner rim and reversed above procedure to assemble.
Reviewed the video of this problem. Followed these instructions using a flat screwdriver to release the broken stop. Then used the same tool to set the piece firmly in place.
We followed the video instructions, at times running to the computer to check the video.. The hardest part was getting the door to slide back on.. Thank heavens for the video.
PartSelect intentionally shipped obsolete part that could not possibly fit a dishwasher. The part looked to be a rectangle door seal for a freezer/ref. You make it impossible to return the part. I find it interesting that you sent the correct install video and wrong part. Suggestion: After you print a shipping label take a picture of the part and shipping label before it is boxed. The customer should not have to send you a picture of the wrong part and the serial number of the appliance for a refund. You did not need the serial number to ship it.
I will never use your company again William Dewberry