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Thanks to everyone for posting their experiences on changing the heater element. The most difficult part of the repair was getting the dishwasher out of the cabinet. I didn't know that I should disconnect the water line underneath the sink and this would make the removal easier. Also, because the copper water line going to the dishwasher was kinked, I ended up changing it with a flexible steel braided line.....much easier to install.
Once the dishwasher was out of the cabinet, I turned it over and easily removed the clips that held the heater element in.
I would definetly recommend people doing this repair themselves, it will save you a lot of money!!!!!
I opened the dishwasher door, removed the old tired seal in a manner of seconds. I measured the old seal against the new, same length, so no cutting. I started on one side pushing the seal in to the groove, made sure the seal was centered in the door. (not too long on one side or the other) It took less than 5 minutes to place the seal and check that it was all the way in, all around the door. I wiped the door down with some cleaner, where it contacts the seal. The door was harder to close, but I expected that until it breaks in. I ran a short load in the dishwasher with no leaks. :)
Dishwasher leaked occasionally due to age and condition of old gasket
Repair was a "no brainer". Pulled out the old gasket, started the replacement of the new gasket in the lower right hand corner and worked all the way around the opening, then trimmed excess gasket of about 2" with a pair of scissors and I was done. Total time - less than 5 minutes.
The rollers on my top rack in my dish washer were broken and wouldn't stay on every time you pull the rack out it would fall. So I ordered the rack adjuster kit and it had everything I needed to fix it. Works like brand new now not hard to change and put new on took about 15 minutes approximately. D
Just remove from dishwasher the top rack and remove the old rack adjusters and put the new ones on , only 2 screws to each side and you are back in business. Very easy to change out. Put the rack back in slots in dishwasher and that's it.
Original upper tray had broken away from all 4 rollers.
Although the b&w photos spooked me a bit. I quickly learned to tear off/break off the old adjuster arms, and then refer to the written directions for installing the new parts. Don't waste your time trying to figure out removal of the original parts, just get them off. So, I did not find the photos helpful, but I figured it out.,with help from the text And of course, once you do one side, the other side is a breeze!
drain pump noisy, broken piece of glass caught in pump.
removed kick panel with screwdriver, 90 degree turn of screw. Put towel under drain pump. Disconnect drain hose by loosening spring clip with pliers to provide access to pump. released spring clip on old motor while turning counterclockwise to separate pump from drain reservoir. inspect drain reservoir from inside machine to remove any foreign objects. Installed new pump by indexing attachment flanges to notches in reservoir and turning pump clockwise until locking tab makes audible click. reattach drain hose insuring hose is contacting "stop" ribs on drain hose pipe. Run wash cycle on machine to insure there are no leaks. Re-attached kick panel.
12 screws remove door outside panel unplug wire remove 6 mounting screw remove old unit put new unit in place put 6 small mounting screws back plug wire in put front door panel in place put 12 door screws in your done now you can start and test run
Only one friction sleeve was broken. So I pulled out the dishwasher to see how the one on the other side went on. It was very easy to replace and I replaced both. Unit works fine now.
