Factory crimped end of link cord pulled out of plastic fastner that hooks on door.
Removed 2 screws that fasten dishwasher to underside of countertop. Pulled dishwasher out from under the countertop for access to sides. Hooked link on door, threaded cord around 2 wheels, hooked spring to back of dishwasher, stretched spring and hooked to eye on end of link cord. I found it very difficult to hook spring to link then try and stretch spring to hole at back of dishwasher. Easier to pull spring and link towards each other and connect. Note: This link was actually different from the original. The plastic end that connects to the door actually hits the first wheel when door is closed but it doesn't seem to prevent the door from locking properly (old design was better). However, I shaved this plastic end to provide better clearance.
I simply had to hook up the power cord to the dishwasher so i could plug it into the outlet rather than direct wire the appliance. Everything went very smoothly. Everything needed for installation other than tools was provided. Easy to follow instructions if you know a little about electrical wiring.
Hardest part was pulling dishwasher away from cabinet, making sure to not disturb water and drain line. I replaced both door springs which are on the two sides and attached to the dishwasher frame towards the back. This necessiatated pulling the dishwasher about 2/3 out of cabinet. After attaching both springs to frame, replacing the balance kit was a breeze .One screw to remove and then replace with new pulley unit. Attach the supplied cord with attached fittings to spring and then around two pulleys and mounting point on frame. Done . Push dishwasher back into cabinet, reattach two screws to underside of counter. Probably did not require new springs as they seem heavy duty and were not broken upon examination but ordered them also and replaced just in case. Most problem would be with broken cord in balance link kit
A mouse was chewed through the hose and ate part of it. Di
Disconnected the damaged hose extension from the dishwasher outlet drain hose and the connection to the sink drain. Removed two clamps. One a spring clamp and the other a screw clamps. Connected the new extension hose with a spring clamp to the dishwasher outlet drain hose. Connected the other end to the sink drain with a screw clamp. Checked for leaks. Good to go!
thought it could be due to the overfill control switch,so ordered one and replaced one in the washer. However, it did not solve the problem. Having a repair company coming to look at the dishwasher. Tipped the washer on its back and switch was readily accessable. Only had to open plastic covering over the switch, disconnect the wires and install new switch and reconnect the wires.
First, I bought the door balance link to replace the broken links that connect to the springs.
Because I didn't have enough slack to simply pull out the dishwasher far enough to reach the springs, I had to disconnect the water line and electrical wiring. The only reason my repair took as long as it did was because there was so little room underneath the dishwasher for disconnecting the water line. I had to buy a shorter adjustable wrench. Also, I had leaks after reconnecting the water line. I had to tighten the compression nut as far as it would go. The nut wrapped around a white substance that had been applied to the threads (I believe this is called pipe tape), which did the trick for sealing the leak.
The repair was a complete success! The parts arrived fast and the information from other customers on the the PartsSelect website was invaluable.
Left and right upper dish rack slide track started losing bearings, plastic holding left side completely fell apart and top rack fell down. The upper rack adjuster also broke as a result.
Make sure you have everything you need before you start. The upper rack adjuster broke when the left track failed and needed to be replaced. Although only the left side track failed, the right side would have soon enough.
This repair was fairly simple. First, toggle the circuit breaker off and turn off the water supply under the sink. Remove gray plastic covers to expose and remove Phillips head screws on each side of inner door frame then remove plastic kick plate before sliding the dishwasher out roughly 20”. The insulation needs to be folded back (tab release back bottom corner) to expose the four rack fasteners on each side. A small socket bit (I used a slow speed hand drill) makes quick work of removing old tracks but make sure one hand is inside on the track to catch what’s left of it. Replace both tracks (the second will fail) arrow pointing up using the fasteners you removed. Reset the insulation and make sure water, drain and electrical connectors are all in good order before sliding dishwasher back and fastening side frame screws to adjoining cabinets (tip: use painter’s tape or similar to keep screw head connected to screwdriver). Replace plastic caps and the kick plate. I had to replace the upper rack adjuster before reinstalling the upper rack on the new tracks. Check the bottom filter and reservoir for any plastic bits or ball bearings and remove them before turning power and water back on. Enjoy not having to hand wash dishes again. For me, about 40 minutes.
Pull the old seal out and push the new seal in. Done. Easy. The only issue is the door is still leaking and I have to replace the seal and the plate that goes across the bottom of the door.
Order both this seal and the seal for the bottom of the door at the same time.
Kids loved to make squeaky sounds opening and closing the doors, finally snapped the door balance link on one side.
1) clear out the dishwasher 2) remove unit securing screws from top or sides of DW and cabinetry near the top or under the counter top 3) gently pull the dishwasher from the cabinetry about 20" is plenty, mind the connecting hoses and electrical connection 4) close the door! pull back the insulation from the area of the hinge and photograph both sides - this will save you the pain of going online 5) you will see the cord, the tensioning wheel assembly and the door balance spring on both sides 6) with the door closed to relieve tension on the cord, remove the cord from the balance spring - this can be done w/o tools at this point 7) remove the 5/16" screw from the plastic tensioning wheels and remove the tensioners, cord - leave the springs in place if not replacing them 8) install the door end of the cord to its hook on the hinge, install the new tensioning wheel assembly, install the old 5/16" self tapping screw through the lower wheel and into the outer hole in the frame 9) thread the cord from the door over the upper wheel and lower wheel. the lower wheel has cord retaining tabs to hold the cord on the assembly 10) hook the eye end of the cord to the balance spring and you are finished with the first side - repeat operations for the other side, reposition the insulation and slide the washer back in its cavity - do not forget to reinstall the stabilizing screws in the upper washer frame 11) you've done it! 12) have a cuppa and do your second washer that hasn't failed yet - it will soon.