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Dishwasher door falls when opened
First, I bought the door balance link to replace the broken links that connect to the springs.
Because I didn't have enough slack to simply pull out the dishwasher far enough to reach the springs, I had to disconnect the water line and electrical wiring. The only reason my repair took as long as it did was because there was so little room underneath the dishwasher for disconnecting the water line. I had to buy a shorter adjustable wrench. Also, I had leaks after reconnecting the water line. I had to tighten the compression nut as far as it would go. The nut wrapped around a white substance that had been applied to the threads (I believe this is called pipe tape), which did the trick for sealing the leak.
The repair was a complete success! The parts arrived fast and the information from other customers on the the PartsSelect website was invaluable.
Drained washer with hand pump. Thermo fuse had blown. Removed control panel and substituted a 15 amp automotive ATC fuse, shimming the blades with aluminum foil. Removed dishwasher from counter niche. Tipped dishwasher, removed and inspected drain pump and recirculating pump. No apparent problems noted. Temporarily rerouted supply and drain lines and restarted. Grinding noise clearly came from the drain pump. Ordered new drain pump and replaced.replaced 20 amp thermo fuse.
Turned off water supply. Then removed water supply line, secondary hose, and screw securing inlet valve. Valve will slide out. Removed brass elbow fitting from old valve. Applied plumbers putty to threads on both ends of elbow and attached to new valve. Installed new valve and secured with screw. Re-attached hose and supply line. Turned water supply back on and checked for leaks.
Hardest part was pulling dishwasher away from cabinet, making sure to not disturb water and drain line. I replaced both door springs which are on the two sides and attached to the dishwasher frame towards the back. This necessiatated pulling the dishwasher about 2/3 out of cabinet. After attaching both springs to frame, replacing the balance kit was a breeze .One screw to remove and then replace with new pulley unit. Attach the supplied cord with attached fittings to spring and then around two pulleys and mounting point on frame. Done . Push dishwasher back into cabinet, reattach two screws to underside of counter. Probably did not require new springs as they seem heavy duty and were not broken upon examination but ordered them also and replaced just in case. Most problem would be with broken cord in balance link kit
A mouse was chewed through the hose and ate part of it. Di
Disconnected the damaged hose extension from the dishwasher outlet drain hose and the connection to the sink drain. Removed two clamps. One a spring clamp and the other a screw clamps. Connected the new extension hose with a spring clamp to the dishwasher outlet drain hose. Connected the other end to the sink drain with a screw clamp. Checked for leaks. Good to go!
First, I turned the power off at the circuit breaker. Next, removed six screws securing front panel to the dishwasher. Then, disconnected power supply to the dispenser. Followed by unscrewing the four screws that held dispenser in place. Easily removed unit and replaced with new dispenser. Secured in place with screws, then connected power supply. Then, fastened front panel and turned circuit breaker back on. Viola! New dispenser is working like a charm!
I did not get to repair my dishwasher using the part supplied by Partselect.com. I pulled my dishwasher out and found that the connector had fallen of the capacitor during installation. Happy to say that I returned the part for a full refund minus the shipping. Have bought from them before, and will again
Dishwasher would not turn on - no lights, no response
From searching the partselect site, I was able to determine that the fuse was most likely the faulty part, and probing the voltage confirmed it. So I ordered the Fuse Kit. I was very pleased with the level of diagnostic information available on partselect.com.
The kit instructions were clear. With power off, I removed the old fuse, clipped the existing wires, stripped them, and reattached to the new wire connector. Then I snapped the new fuse in place and put the cover panel back on. Everything works fine again and my wife was very pleased.
Removed the old one, cleaned out the groove, dry fit the gasket, made a small cut to fit length, removed, squeezed the glue into the track and then put gasket in. Had to wait 24 hours for glue to cure. No leaks.
Dishwasher making up high pitch noise when running
After looking at what everyone else had done, I decide that I would take the dishwasher out of the wall space and set it on its side. This require me to turn off the power first. Then I pull the diswasher out from its space in the wall. I turned off the the water and then took off the water hose, then took of the return hose. There was water left in both, so there was a little water on the floor as a result of this. Then I finally pulled out the unit and laid it down on its side. The motor was very visible and was easy to access. The hardest part was finding the bolt to take it off. I pulled off the power connector to the motor and then took off the one bolt that was holding the motor on the washer. Then I twisted the motor, but it would not come off. I finally got a screw driver and put it in the small opening between the motor and the connection and it finally came off. This took all of about 30 minutes. Once I got the motor off, I notice that the aluminum grating inside was dirty and needed cleaning. So I cleaned this and put it back inside. The new motor came with every thing, so I put it in and twisted it. Then put back in the bolt, reconnected the power cable, put back on the water and reconnected the output cable. In order to make sure there were no leaks before I put it back in for good, I ran a short wash to check to see if everything was tight. There were no leaks, so I put everything back in the wall. It really did sound very nice now. This dishwasher unit came with noise padding, so I put that back as well. The dishwasher, now is very quite and I don't mind it running any time during the day. The hardest part about this is getting the motor off and find the bolt. It is down between motor and the unit and there was some aluminum between this and the dishwasher, so you need a long nutdriver to get it off.
Replacement parts from factory installed using u tube support video
Also replaced stop ends for top rack by removing old clip in to push down and lined up to secure in slots at end of rack, notice new plastic parts are installed by pushing hardware into slots downward until they clip into place
It honestly took more time to take the dishwasher baskets out than the actual repair. Once the baskets were out, I put a piece of newspaper over the lower drain in case I dropped a part or the screw. I removed the top screw to access the broken part, removed it, and installed the new spinner. I put the screw back in and 2 minutes later, the dishwasher was in use once again.
Repair was easy - The only reason that I am writing this is to brag on you guys for shipping the part as promised and on time. Had i next day which was most important.
Inlet valve was not shutting off. Door counterbalance was broken
I turned off the circuit breaker for the dishwasher. I also shut off the water inlet valve to the feed line. Disconnected the electrical and conduit. Disconnected the drain line and the water feed line to the inlet valve. I made sure I had old towels under the unit to catch any water flowing out of the pipes once disconnected. I removed two screws holding the dishwasher up under the counter edge. Then the dishwasher rolled out of from under the counter, I rolled it over to an area where I had laid down a moving blanket. I noticed the new counterbalance "ropes and pulleys" were a bit different design than the originals so I made sure the new style pulleys would fit and they did. I replaced both sides pulleys and link ropes, then I connected the spring to the rope and pulled the spring back to connect to the rear of the frame of the dishwasher. Door fixed! The inlet valve is a piece of cake, just removed one screw and the electrical connector and replaced, reversing the process. I cleaned up under the counter where the dishwasher mounts and also shot some "Foam" into some areas where I think sounds might have been leaking into the living room on the back side of the counter, I figured it could not hurt to seal off those areas to prevent as much sound as possible from entering the other living space. I reversed the process installing the dishwasher and then ran a cycle making sure that no water was leaking from the inlet or the drain lines. It all seems to be working now. While the dishwasher was out I wanted to figure out what this "Clunk" was every time you opened the door was, turned out it was something to do with the door catching the front edge of the bottom pan of the dishwashers and then it would clunk as it sprung back. I just used my hands and kinda bent the front edge of the bottom pan of the dishwasher back in and now they don't touch and the clunk is gone. So for about $60.00 in parts and 1.5 hours of my time the dishwasher is back in operation.
