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Oven stopped heating, error message stated heating element
Very easy. Pulled the stove away from the wall. Used a screw driver to remove the two nuts to release the heat sensor, disconnected the wire, removed the sensor. Inserted the new sensor, plugged back into the circuit. put the two nuts back. Beware, if the first time you put the oven on, if the error message comes back up (mine did) push the cancel/off button, wait a few minutes, put oven back on. System probably needed to reset. Mine worked perfectly after.
Removed old terminal block & replaced with new one. Very simple. Did NOT have to replace cover as stated you should. Shipping could have been a little faster. Will definetly try this site again.
Oven lamp socket had broken center electric tab - failed.
1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.
Unplugged unit from wall. Unscrewed the two screws on at he back of the oven where the element is attached Removed old element by pulling apart the connectors. Attached new element to the connectors. Replaced cover with the two screws.
Oven door was distroyed and dirty from previous owner
I dismounted the oven door following the graphic templates that this site has for that model. Then I replaced the gasquet (seal window), appliying an apoxic glue to hold it on place. Then I started to put it togueter, from the bottom to the top, first the lower trim, I screwed it back to the metal frame, then the left and right trims, it goes tied by pressing it to the sides, after that I installed the top and screwed it to the frame. It holded all toguether cery well. My oven looks like new now.
1. Unplug the power 2. Unscrew the two screws that hold the element 3. Pull the element out a little to expose the wires. 4. Gently pull off each wire (best done with needle nose) MAKE SURE THE WIRES DONT FALL INTO THE BACK OF THE OVEN. 5. Firmly seat wires back onto new element and replace screws 6. Bake stuff!
the fastener became loose and dropped into the stove
This is a cook stove that is used 5 months a year. We have not fixed it yet because we are now in Florida the stove is in New York. We ordered that part just before we left NY for FL so the repair will be done in June of 2021. George Clark
Simple-pulled range away from wall, unplug from socket. Removed back panel unscrewed thermoses and replace. Put back panel back on plug in, tested temperature setting before sliding range back on place
Unplugged appliance, removed the 2 screws that mount element. Unhooked the electric wires,with pliers. Connected, the wires to new element replaced the 2 screws. And was done in about 9 minutes.
Unplug the stove from outlet so no power going to appliance. Had to use wd on screws to help loosen Little bit of effort to loosen. Took new element from package. Replaced screws just tight donot over tighten. Plug stove into outlet turned on. Did a automatic clean. Oven clean and baked cake later I am back in business and 63 years. Was quote 240.00 to from a local repair person. When using wd make sure you wipe any drip from before turning on oven.
Unplug stove. Remove the two screws attaching the element to the rear of the oven. Carefully pull out. Disconnect wires. Reconnect wires. Screw back in. Done. The hardest part was moving the stove away from the wall.
