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removed top, 2 hex screws, removed front 2 hex screws & 2 star screws. removed belt, slid drum out. Removed old bearing and replaced with new bearing kit. assembled in reverse. It would help to have another person assist you.
I follow the easy instruction by a user in your web site to reach the problem area and discoverd the drive belt was broken. As it turned out, the problem was compounded when I discovered also that the Heating element needed replacement. At this point I decided it was time to let go and got a new dryer, choosing the same brand that lasted 25 years: GE
Remove the bottom cover of dryer to look at the motor, see belt hanging remove broken belt. Remove screws from the top and front, slide belt over drum put small piece of tape to hole belt in place replace screws go back to the rear pull belt over the motor pulley close back panel
Open top by removing 4 phillips head screws above opened door, pop top up. Remove rear access panel, remove belt from drive & tension pully. Loosen top front screws, remove front panel to gain access to remove drum. After drum removed, I realized why rear bearing went bad- two front guides were worn causing rear bearing to angle and wear out. Replaced front pads, buttoned her up and now quite as new. Also replaced drive belt while in there.
First I shut off the gas and unhooked the gas line. Then opened the door and removed the screws that hold the top down in the front. I then tipped the top back so I could get to the top of the drum. I removed the screws ( 4 ) inside the door opening and slid the felt seal back. Next I put the belt in the drum and feed part out the crack between the drum and the dryer frame, being careful not to cut the belt. I woorked the belt around the crack and pulled it toward the drum. When I got the belt through it was all the way around the drum and I just put the belt over the motor pully and pulled the tensioner back and wrapped the belt over it. Put all the screws back in and the back on and fired it up. Works as good as it ever did.
Took the dryer apart to get to the rear bearing. Took the bearing assembly out, kept the e-ring from the old bearing shaft, replaced the bearing kit, took the o-ring off the new shaft and replaced it with the e-ring, then reassembled the unit. Make sure to place a nail or long screw into into the rear of the drum, so that you can realign bearing on the drum. It is easier with two people when reassembling.
My daughter, who has the dryer in Florida, made the repair herself. She removed the broken handle that had been temporarily taped in place. Cleaned off tape residue with Goo-Gone. Then took the new handle and snapped it into place. Worked just like it was supposed to.
the timer on an older gas dryer wasn't working properly
I removed 2 screws to remove the top control panel the 5 sheet metal screws to remove the back of panel to expose to timer control switch unpluging the power leads to replace the switch' the repair saved me about $ 400.00. My wife had me looking at replacing the Dryer.
This is the third time for a belt on this 28 year old dryer. Not too much to it. Unplug the dryer. Open the door. Remove the screws holding on the front panel and loosen the screw at the bottom. Disconnect the wires to the door switch and lift off the front panel and start up the shop vac to clean out the lint - there is a lot to be found in various places. Slide the new belt over the front of the drum and make sure there are no twists. You can now reverse the order to mounte the front panel but don't close the top so you have light to see inside. Go around to the back panel and remove the machine bolts holding on the access panel at the back. This allows access to the motor and belt tensioner. Get the shop vac out here and get to some more lint. Google the model number to find a diagram on how to route the belt. Put the belt on the motor shaft and around the tensioner as depicted. Occaisionally the plastic idler pully is worn and this can be the cause of the brokent belt. If the idler wheel does not spin freely, squeads or is cracked it should be replaced or you will be right back replacing the belt again. If all is fine it is time for a test run. CAUTION - you can plug the dryer in but keep your hands out of the cabinet as there are live exposed 220 volt terminals exposed. This allows you to observe that all is working and not binding during a test run with NO heat. If all is fine, unplug the dryer and put the covers back on. Reconnect the exhaust hose (now is a good time to clean that and the vent to outdoors as well).
I bought the Heating Element and Housing together so that I would not have to stretch and run the coils and to save time! 1. I removed the two screws that hold the top down by opening the dryer door and removing the two screws at the top of the door opening. Then I pulled the top off. 2. Then I removed the two screws on the top inside of the dryer on the left right and took the front off. 3. Next I spread the dryer open a little and pulled the drum out while pushing the belt off the back of the drum. 4. Then I removed the screws to the sensors and removed them from the housing. 5. Then I removed the four screws holding the heating element housing to the back of the dryer and took it out and put in the new peace. 6. Do everything in reverse when putting the dryer back together.
