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back burn would turn high no mater where you set the control knob.
Well I was just guessing the controll switch was bad so I ordered a new one. So I cut off the power and held the switch close to the old one and changed the wires one at a time matching the connection terminals and cut the power back on and presto it WORKED..The service man wanted to charge me 65.00 dollars just to check it out. I figure I saved about 100.00 dollers plus I learned something.
Very simple---shut off the power, removed six screws, detached five wires, replaced control switch, put everything back together, turned on power and made husband happy!!!
My drip pans had rusted and I had a hole in one of them.
I just pulled the electric element out of the slot and dropped the drip pan in place and slipped the electric element back in place and it was ready to go. It looks almost new. We built a new house in 95. It took 17 months to build it. I got the stainless steel cook top that you can have the grill on one side or you can pull the grill off and slip in the burners. It is only 4 burners but it is plenty to work with. It has a down draft.
1. Flipped breaker and confirmed no power at cooktop. 2. Removed the Fan grille and removed the two screws holding on the control panel. It tilts up and out to the rear. 3. Unscrewed the 2 screws on top holding old switch to panel. 4. Disconnected the wiring one lead at a time and connected it to the new switch in the same spot. There are 5 wires total and I carefully used needle nose pliers to remove reluctant wires and to adjust connectors if they were loose on new switch 5. Screwed the new switch onto the panel and screwed the panel back onto the cooktop. 6. Tested new switch...worked great.
I removed 2 screws to release the plate that held four the switces. I removed 2 screws to release the bad switch. I removed one wire at a time and connected the to the same post on the new switch, screwed the switch into place and reinsalled the mounting plate. The stove works fine.
Really easy ...followed advice posted from others with same problem. Before anything disconnect the power at the breakers and use a voltage detector to verify there is NO POWER!!!! Only need to remove the two phillips screws on the four controller panel, Slide panel away from you to access the controllers. Match wire/connector for connector from the old to new controller. Reassemble, restore power .. Happy wife!!!. She has been on my case to fix this thing for several years.
The switch would not turn off the range. The switch just kept turning but nothing happened.
I removed two screws that held the switch plate together. Then I removed two screws that held the faulty switch to the swtich plate. I then unpluged one wire at a time from the old switch and pluged it into the new switch. Reattached the switch to the switch plate and then reattached the switch plate to the stovetop. Bingo! Everything worked beautifully. It was so easy and I saved ~ $100.00 by doing it myself, as opposed to a quote that I got from a local repairman.
I remove fore screwsfrom the front panel. Then remove two screws to remove the switch and removed the wire plugs then put everything back together again.
Remove cover plate, install new switch, replace cover place. Replace one wire at a time, a pair of needle nose pliers may be helpful. Surprise of this job was that I had a torque screw driver (I think that's what it's called) to remove the switch from the cover plate. These are the screws you'll see after removing the knob. Find that driver before you begin, mine was in the garage and for the life of me, I can't remember why I ever had one in the first place. Thanks for a great web site!
