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Oven was not correctly heating to set temperature
Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.
The first set of racks did not fit. I called the Service rep, gave him the model number and exchanged the racks for the new ones. The new ones fit perfectly and the service was excellent. I would definitely recommend PartSelect.com to anyone who wants to deal with a company with excellent service, parts and representatives who know their stuff.
Important to unplug the appliance first. There were two screws which were at the top opening of the oven. They were a bit obscure, but with a bit a searching, I was able to find them. After removing those two screws, the entire top lifted up. There were four screws from the bottom of that assembly which were easy to find, and once removed, the top lifted of easily. I found it easier to remove the two power lines with two easy disconnects, this made it easier to work on the assembly. The element itself was held down by two simple clamps which required no tools. There were four easy to remove wires, and the element came right off. Simply reversing the process put it right back together, plug it in, and back to cooking again.
Door gasket was hard and brittle from baked-on grease - heat leaking around door
Waited for my husband to do it, but when he didn't, I tried it. Very simple! Just pulled the old gasket out of the pinch pin holes in the door, then replaced it. Tuck the one end into the hole at the bottom of the door, then match up the little pinch pins on the gasket with the holes in the door - matches up perfectly! Be sure to tuck in each of pinch pins till they sort of "snap" into each hole. Took me 5 minutes, tops. Works great now, no more lost heat around the edge of the door.
Following the instructions from the internet, removed the two screws holding the stove top, pulled top toward me, and disconnected the two cables. Lifted the top off and placed it on the blankets I'd spread out on the floor. Unscrewed the four screws holding the burner(noting there mounting numbers), then loosened the four bracket mounting screws, which allowed me to rotate the brackets away from the burner. Moved the old burner to the side, and reattached the mounting brackets to the new burner. I then moved each wire from the old burner to the new burner. Re-installed the stove top, and cooked lunch.
door seal contaminated by a boil-over, not flexible
From reading other reviews i thought I would have to dis-assemble the door but when I saw the new part I realized I would not have to, simply pop the beveled clips w/pocket knife and pop in the new seal clips. the ends tucked very nicely, an 80+ yr. old would have no trouble if they had their wits.
only the outer ring of the elements would heat up.
I had to remove the screws that held the range top in place. Next just removed the existing element (leaving the wiring in place). Replace wires one at a time and then placed all the screws on the new element.
Only hitch I experienced was identifying the correct replacement. The original diagram presented the accurate shape of the element my range required. However a different shaped element was displayed when I noted my unit is a series 12 serial number. I ordered it (with reservations) and as it turned out the replacement was identical to mine. Next time I will have a lil more confidence in the instructions given.
When the element failed, it continued to glow nearly white-hot and slowly burned along a spiral path on the element. I figured this MUST be due to a voltage leak - the control was OFF on the range.
I shut off the breaker, removed the two screws where the element goes through the back of the oven, pulled the element forward and pulled the wires off of the element. (Found it handy to twist the wire connectors outward to prevent the wires from slipping through the back of the oven.)
A new element won't "fit" exactly but you can easily push it into position to get the screw holes to line up. Total time was less than 15 minutes.
removed screws and disconnected the wires removed element and did the replacement less than 15 minutes, and cost less than locally by 25.00 and received part the next day. EXCELLENT
Remove sides and face of oven door by sliding down from under the oven handle trim.
Remove screws on 2nd light of glass and set aside.
Now you are at the inner door panes. their should be two in an insulated type unit.
Remove the remaining screws from the handle pracket and the permiter frame for the glass/insulation. Remove permiter frame and set aside.
Pull out inner door glass frame. get a pair of pliers and bend tab on frame up so you can pull the frame sightly apart, replace the glass, secure frame tightly around glass slide tab back into reciever slot and bend down ( you may need another person to assist in keeping both lights in the frame while trying to ben tab back in to place)
reassemble door as it came apart carefull not to over tighten the screws, they strip easy.
slide stove all the way out. Remove front, then top, unhooking two wiring harnesses. Took pictures of existing wires to make sure to get back in same place. Pull element wire connections off. Replaced element and reconnected. Fairly easy.