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leaking ice maker,big chunks ot ice were forming and had to remove them 2-3 times a day
removed old ice maker by taking out a couple of screws in the back of freezer,when new ice maker arrived i saw that it didn't have the same hose apparatus as old one so I easily took apart old one then took apart new one and switched them out-very-- easily done for a 61 yr old lady I might add-- also had to reinstall ice maker arm off old ice maker as new one does not come with one Then installed new ice maker in freezer I am very very pleased,sure saved a lot of money doing it my self
Removed the 3 screws that hold the ice maker in place and remove the cover and level wire. Put the cover and wire on new part and install the 3 screws. Had ice within 1 hour. A very easy job for the do it yourselfer. Suspect the heat coil that melts the cubes was not working in the old unit and cubes stayed in the tray.
This was the third icemaker replaced since January 1999. Improvement need to be made in the design of the icemaker so that more than 2-3 years of life is available. The most difficult part was disconnecting the power plug in the back of the icemaker. You must squeeze the upper and lower tabs together and pull out at the same time to disconnect. Once this is done, take out one nut head screw, lift up on the icemaker and remove from the hanger. Be careful that you don't break the plastic tabs on the hangers. Replace new icemaker in reverse, feed water supply where it must go in the back, resnap onto hangers, replace the nut head screw and snap in the power plug. It took about 2 hours before the icemaker began making ice. It has been working fine ever since. PS. I saved about $200.00 over having a repairman come in and replace the unit.
Unplug power to refridg/freezer. Removed the screw in rt. rear bottom of ice maker to remove. After removing slightly, unplug pigtail. Remove ice maker completely. Remove large square cover from left side to expose motor. Remove screws to remove motor. Replce with new. Replace ice maker to freezer, plug pigtail back in, put screw back in rt rear bottom, plug refridg/freezer back into power source. Ice was making in about 2 1/2 hours.
First I removed the pantry drawer; then the two crisper drawers and glass shelf. Then I removed the hex screws that held end cap in place. Removal of cap from refrigerator was complicated by the adjustable temperature control - it is loosely attached at the back of end cap and also has to be removed to get cap out. Gentle persuasion accomplishes this. Getting the slider off end cap also a bit difficult. Then I removed the drawer glides. Reversing all steps was fairly easy and the rest of the "fix" went well. I wished that there had been some written directions - or at the very least, a diagram of how all went together. All in all was still cheaper than repair person.
Empty drawer and take out . remove glass shelf and front and rear shelf braces. remove 2 screws holding pantry end cap to fridge. remove rear bracket by unsnapping clips. remove temp control arm. and reattach to new end cap. reinstall rear bracket to fridge and align end cap, align screws and tighten. reinstall drawers and shelf brackets. replace glass shelf. and reattach lid to brackets. Open beer and enjoy success.
We came home from a long vacation to discover a warm refrigerator with its contents in various stages of decay.
Turning the freezer thermostat to its warmest setting then back to cold generated clicks, and after a few tries the compressor started and cooled the refrigerator to its normal cold temperatures. But… later the compressor again failed to start, and everything warmed back up again. With persistence and turning the thermostat up and down several times a day, we could keep the fridge cold.
It was time to order parts. We needed a new start relay and capacitor for the compressor. For our Amana ARB2214CW a start relay (WP12555902) and capacitor (WP65889-4) were listed on the first page of the Partselect parts list for my refrigerator. I ordered them, received them, removed the old capacitor and start relay (which rattled when shaken). and prepared to install my new parts. The new start relay did not match the old. The old start relay fit my wiring which had a single plug with two small female spade connectors in the plug. The new start relay required wiring with two separate female spade connectors; one the normal size and one larger. Phone calls to Partselect and to Westinghouse shed no light on the discrepancy. On the second page of the Partselect parts list was a combination of a start relay and a capacitor (W10613606) that matched my electrical connector. I could see the connection in the photograph. I ordered it and it fit. Easy peazy. That fixed the compressor start problem. Every time the freezer thermostat clicked on, the compressor started. Success.
But… from our troubleshooting we now had a thermometer the freezer, and it was obvious that the temperature difference between the cold point where the thermostat turned the compressor off and the warm point where the thermostat restarted the compressor was much too wide. In addition, the knob was hard to turn and was sticky as it turned. Oiling it fixed the sticky knob problem but not the wide temperature difference problem. I ordered a new freezer thermostat (WP67003000), received it, installed it, and all is now fine with my refrigerator. The new thermostat was physically a little different from the original, but it fit and worked.
I returned the first compressor start relay and capacitor and received a refund including the shipping charge.
It was easier than I had anticipated. Just had to make sure that I was very careful in removing the old part so I did not break any of the good plastic that I needed in order to install the plastic temperature control to the new part.
Removed the top glass above the vegetable drawers and slipped the center rail in place. And I would like to add that I would do business with this site again!
Ice cubes in bin frozen into big lumps due to water leaking into bin from icemaker. Lining of icemaker cube tray worn and damaged allowing leak.
Pull refrigerator out from wall to shut off water and power. Remove ice bin, pulling front down then out. Remove screw at bottom of icemaker, then pull down to release two clips, Pull out a couple inches to get hand behind icemaker to release wiring harness connector. (squeeze top and bottom to release clips). Remove unit. Remove wiring harness and wire bail from old unit and install on new unit. Reverse steps to install new unit. Make sure ice bin is fully inserted, or unit will not function.
Removed the food bins and lower shelf. Unscrewed the end cap. Removed the drawer hinge. Re-installed hing on new end cap. Installed the new end cap. Re-installed drawers and shelf. DONE!
Great graphics on the website helped to correctly idenitfy the required part. Part arrived quickly and well packed. One of the easiest transactions ever!
ice maker was over filling and causing water to flow into ice dispenser and freezing it al together
First turned off the water and unplugged the refrigerator and then removed the old ice maker by first removing the side cover plate and then next removed the ice level detector. Remove the screws that hold the ice maker in place and rotating it somewhat soas to gain access to the wires and then unplugged them. Next I had to modify the way the water comes into the new icemaker by adapting a CPVC street ell to fit into the hole on the side and then hook up the water supply. Installation is just the reverse of removal.
