59669282000 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

knelt down, positioned replacement kickplate; popped into place, stood up!

took longer to open the box and peel bubble wrap off item than to replace it!

The toughest part was pulling the refrigerator from the wall....After removing the back-bottom access panel the compressor is right there with the Start-Dev and Cap..Took a few min to remove and install new parts....Very Simple and works great...no more clicking..

Snapped on the new toe grille.

i just snapped the new grill onto refridgerator.

the part was an exact match.

With a small allen wrench, I was able to loosen the two screws to remove the door handle and replace the new on without any problems. A very simple operation.

It took longer to empty the glass shelf above the Crisper Bins than to replace the rail. Since the part simply snaps in place, no tools were required

Took the new kick plate out of the box. Snapped it into position. I have had a repairman for this refrigerator before. I would rather repair an appliance than buy a new one. I'm very proud that I thought to get a replacement part myself instead of calling my friendly repairman again. Saved a few dollars.

Just slipped it in. I think it's a very poor design.

Complete replacement of the plastic drawer.

After the original center crisper drawer slide rail broke and and second also looking in deep into your parts catalog I discovered that the refrigerator never came with a crisper frame brace from the store or factory.
Thanks to you , I no longer have the use of the center rail breaking off for now everything is made out of cheaply make plastic by whirlpool.

My son (who does HVAC, but not appliance repair) did some investigating by taking front and back panels off and determined that the evaporator coil was freezing over because the defrost wire was not heating up. He and his girlfriend did some real-time internet searching for diagnostic info because NO control diagram was included with the refrigerator. He determined the problem was most likely the electronic control board. Ordered and installed a new board and the refrigerator is back to working fine. Took about 2 hours to diagnose the problem and 1/4 hour to actually install the control board. Kind of disappointing that this control board failed when the refrigerator was less that 4 years old.

The fridge would occasionally run warm, requiring me to turn it off and defrost the evap coils in the freezer. I found an online video that demonstrated the entire process of replacing the control board. The fridge model in the video was different than mine, so it took some time to figure out how to remove the panel. Once that was done, the rest was easy. The only tool required was a flat-head screwdriver that was used to push in the tabs holding the panel in place. The circuit board took more effort to split in two than I had realized, and I had to be careful not to bend any of the components on its surface. The whole process took less than 30 minutes, and the fridge is working properly now..

Remove the grate at the back of the refrigerator. Remove the existing drawn tube. Replace the exiting drain tube with the updated drain tube. Check to see if water was draining properly. Replace the grate. Sit back and have a beer.

I followed the video provided by Part Select. I also let the refrigerator stay unplugged overnight with all the doors open. This p-trap kit has fixed the leaks out of the front of the refrigerator. There is no ice build-up in the freezer. Perfect!

I made a temporary repair by drilling the old blade plastic hub and put a small screw in it to hold it on to the shaft until the new blade arrived. The new blade came in within the two days I needed before Thanksgiving. I removed the old and pushed on the new. There were 8 screws on the back guard and two to hold the motor on. It was a snap.
Thank you PartSelect.com The wife is very, very happy now, we had 51 coming over for Thanksgiving. :)