Total time 10 minutes. 9 minutes to clear out the food and 1 minute to install the part. Installation was self evident and could have been done blindfolded. Part just snapped in.
Fresh Food Compartment occasionally going down to 28-30 degrees F
Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)
Freezer temperature goes down to -20*F before compressor stops but refrigerator side remains normal 38*F and compressor makes a grunting noise while running.
Unplug ref then remove lower(freezer) panel plus trays and thermistor’s cover/holder then remove the evaps cover. I found the evaps all frozen up. Cut and remove old thermistor, strip wires 1/2 inch then cut the new thermistor wires to length and strip 1/2 inch, use the enclosed insulated crimp type connector and put back everything in the reverse order. It works great afterwards.
We came home from a long vacation to discover a warm refrigerator with its contents in various stages of decay.
Turning the freezer thermostat to its warmest setting then back to cold generated clicks, and after a few tries the compressor started and cooled the refrigerator to its normal cold temperatures. But… later the compressor again failed to start, and everything warmed back up again. With persistence and turning the thermostat up and down several times a day, we could keep the fridge cold.
It was time to order parts. We needed a new start relay and capacitor for the compressor. For our Amana ARB2214CW a start relay (WP12555902) and capacitor (WP65889-4) were listed on the first page of the Partselect parts list for my refrigerator. I ordered them, received them, removed the old capacitor and start relay (which rattled when shaken). and prepared to install my new parts. The new start relay did not match the old. The old start relay fit my wiring which had a single plug with two small female spade connectors in the plug. The new start relay required wiring with two separate female spade connectors; one the normal size and one larger. Phone calls to Partselect and to Westinghouse shed no light on the discrepancy. On the second page of the Partselect parts list was a combination of a start relay and a capacitor (W10613606) that matched my electrical connector. I could see the connection in the photograph. I ordered it and it fit. Easy peazy. That fixed the compressor start problem. Every time the freezer thermostat clicked on, the compressor started. Success.
But… from our troubleshooting we now had a thermometer the freezer, and it was obvious that the temperature difference between the cold point where the thermostat turned the compressor off and the warm point where the thermostat restarted the compressor was much too wide. In addition, the knob was hard to turn and was sticky as it turned. Oiling it fixed the sticky knob problem but not the wide temperature difference problem. I ordered a new freezer thermostat (WP67003000), received it, installed it, and all is now fine with my refrigerator. The new thermostat was physically a little different from the original, but it fit and worked.
I returned the first compressor start relay and capacitor and received a refund including the shipping charge.
I initially tested the heating element and defrost thermostat using an ohm meter. the defrost thermostat was incased in ice, so I replaced it first. The refridgerator worked for about a week and then froze up again. I then replaced the thermistor and the unit is working as designed.
I got really tired of taking food out covered in icicles and stabbing a huge block of ice out of the bottom. Turns out all he needed was a little wheel with cogs and I looked up the sticker model number on this site and clicked the part of the fridge. So simple, wish I would’ve done it sooner.
inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out. then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.
Ice maker quit making ice--had to either be a faulty switch in the ice maker or a faulty water valve. I guessed it was the ice maker switch and ended up being correct.
It was exactly as everyone else described--remove old ice maker, unplug, plug in new ice maker, attach new ice maker. 3 screws, 1 plug. My plug was the one on the ice maker not on the refrigerator (ie I used the wiring/plug that was already in the freezer).
Unit would not cycle and dispense ice. After replacing with new unit I disassembled old unit and detected a slight burn smell in the timer.
Unplugged refrigerator and turned off water supply. Loosened two top screws and removed bottom screw. Althought kit was supplied with multyple wiring harnesses the harness attached to unit was the correct harness for the model I was replacing. Removed and reused old shut off arm as replacement arms were shorter in reach then original. Also reused bottom unit support that was removed and replaced with one screw into unit and then into side wall of freezer. Over all time less then 15 minutes. As this was a side by side ref/freezer unit their us limited space to view support screws. I used a mechanics mirror to find upper screws. This visualization made the process go much faster. Reading the other repair stories also gave me a huge confidence boost and insite in what to expect.
Removed the screws and disconnected the electric. I put the proper electric harness on and went to fit the unit in but it didn't fit. Until I figured out that you have to use the clips from the old unit that hold the unit in place. The actually hang on them. Once I figured it out it was easy.
On my particular model refrigerator I only needed to remove one screw and disconnet the plug. I then slid the unit out. The new ice maker did not come with the plastic sled that was attached to the old unit. I removed and attached the sled to the new unit with 3 screws.
