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Screen on the hot air vent disintegrated
It is odd that this part needed replacement but I am in an area near the Atlantic ocean in a vacation house which is vacant most of the year. The exhaust vent probably brings excessive moisture down to the dryer in the basement. The screen you can see at the inside back of the tumbler (where the heated air enters) rotten out, pieces fell inside and there was danger of something falling in and catching fire. I found no useful source for information (including YouTube) as this part is most easily replaced from the rear of the dryer and the available info was about repairing the heating element, the circuit board, or the exhaust venting pieces which is done from the front.
The bottom line is that the back removes easily. You should: 1. unplug and remove the exhaust shoot 2. remove the top per YouTube or other source 3. take off the back panel over the electrical connections and unscrew the ground; tuck it inside. Don't undo any electrical connections except the ground 4. take off the screws holding the back on (8-9, one is hidden above the exhaust vent) and pull it out of the way; you then have compete access to the "DUCT-AIR" part 4. undo the clip that holds the vent tube (from the heating element) to the part 5. remove the screws that hold the part to the inside back (3?) and push it out of the way 6. remove the clips and remove the old part 7. reassemble in reverse order
I'm over 70 so I took lots of time and breaks but was still done in under two hours. The 2 clips holding the heater element tube to the part were badly rusted and should have been replaced but I made do with the old ones.
Used the maintenance kit....followed the movie tutorial. I also used an empty gallon plastic container to support the front of the drum while stretching the belt over the motor pulley. For the rear drum rollers, before sliding them on the shaft, I put a light grease film on the shaft. After the repair, the dryer runs quieter.
Replaced the most worn drum wheel any lubed the belt tension arm pulley. The noise didn't go completely away. There are 4 drum wheels. I need to order 3 more wheels and the tension arm now.
Take pictures along the way. 1. Remove lower front panel using screwdriver to lift up on tabs on top of panel. 2. remove door 3. unplug moisture sensor plugs 4. remove lint trap 5. on back of dryer, remove screws holding upper lid 6. slid up lid forward just a small amount, its hooked in towards the front of the upper lid. you will need to do this so you can can remove two screws under the lid holding the front panel of the dryer on 7. remove the front panel screws mentioned in step 6. 8. Remove lower front panel screws 9. remove front panel 10. reach into dryer at the bottom and release tension from belt pulley, sliding the belt off. (make a note of how the belt is routed around the drive and idler pulleys) 11. slide out tumbling drum 12. with drum removed, use socket wrench and socket to remove old idler pulley. 13. install new idler pulley 14. reinstall tumbling drum 15. slide belt back around tumbling drum, looping belt around drive pulley and around idler pulley. 16. When belt is installed, rotate drum a few revolutions to ensure belt rides correctly. 17. Reinstall front panel 18 slide top panel back into place and secure with screws from back 19. reinstall door 20. reattach moisture sensor plugs 21. reinstall lower panel
Watched on-line video on how to disassemble and test heater element, thermostat, and hi-temp shut down. Heater element was open. Ordered new heater element. Re-installed heater element iaw video provided with parts. Video provide was one of the best I've seen. Explanation on releasing access panel was especially helpful.
Removed top cover. Removed front cover. Removed Drum. Located the broken belt. Found that there was no tensioner in the unit. Replaced drum rollers. Put in new tensioner. Repaced Drum with belt around it. Installed belt through tensioner and onto drive pully of motor. Supported Drum with wood block. Turned on dryer to insure drum turned without any problems. Removed wood block. Replaced front cover and top cover. Repair compete.
I squeezed the latch catch with a pair of pliers and pushed it in the catch hole. But that was the final repair. There were two "repairs" before that. First, we used two commercial grade rolls of wide plastic tape to tape the dryer door shut each time we used it, for a year, until we ran out of tape. Second, we positioned a chest of drawers in front of the dryer and wedged a 1" x 4" against the door. Very effective. Then I broke down and ordered the $3 catch.
pulled dryer away from wall took screws out of lint screen lift top removed 2 screws one on each side of front at top and removed front panel. pulled belt off drum removed drum rollers tension pulley and while i was at it pulled back cover off of heating element and blower blew everything out with air hose did a total cleaning installed everything in reverse. i was amazed how fast the parts came the dryer was only down 2 days and it runs like new even if it is 20 years old i highly recommend parts slect and i will use them in the future
1.Removed lower dryer cover - two screws. 2.Tested heating element circuit including high temp cutoff, - Heating element circuit was "open" so I first tested the heating element - "open" so I removed one screw on the side and removed the element - element broken. 3.Ordered the part - good price and the deliver was great, three days. 4. Cleaned any lint up and Installed the new heating element and front panel 5. Heated right up - probably saved myself a good $100 for less than thirty minutes of work!!!!
Loud rumble and finally the drum stopped because the belt broke
I opened the top and front of the dryer. 1st I pulled out the drum and cleaned up the lint and mess from the busted support roller. Next it was a matter of looking at the enclosed drawing and instructions. I could not believe it was that easy.
