We have the classic Hobart-made KitchenAid mixer from the mid-1980s. The original cord sheathing was disintegrating. The replacement cord is actually a better design, but the housing needs to be filed down to slide the cord into place. The old housing channel on my mixer only allowed for something basically the cord width to fit through. The part of the cord that now fits tight against the housing is much thicker and sturdier than the original. I started with a metal file to widen the housing channel, which was working but taking a long time. My son the electrical engineer suggested a Dremel, which was indeed faster on the thick aluminum housing. We used a small circular sanding tip to avoid damaging any adjacent workings. My son also saw that the slim strain relief collar at the top of the cord was pushing and bending the wires too much against the rest of the unit, so he took an X-acto knife and gently rolled the cutting edge along the base of the top collar until he could tear away that extra collar and let the wires lie more naturally in the space. We also managed to break the paper gasket meant to shield the motor from vented flour (in my case lots of years of cocoa powder! Time to vacuum here), but taped that back together with black electrical tape. After the adjustments were made, the cord replacement itself took about 2 minutes. If your mixer is more modern, you may not need to make any adjustments like we did. Just take a picture of how the wires attach and duplicate that with the new wires in the cord.
Replaced the speed control plate and phase control board and works well. Pay attention to speed control board spring and adjustment lever when reassembling.
Pulled off end cover. Used the how-to video's to show me how to remove the (3) components (watch out when it comes to removing the spring). Removed all (3) components (one issue was the black cardboard seal, which because of its age broke. Hindsight tells me that I should have purchased a replacement seal along with the (3) new parts. Fixed the broken part of the seal with scotch tape). Installed all new parts with the help of the video's and put the cover back on. Even with the new parts, the mixer would not run. Come to find out, after I took it to an appliance repair person, that someone had pulled both brushes and put them back in improperly. I could not find a how-to video that showed me how to de-install/re-install the brushes properly. I assume that was because new brushes were no longer available for purchase. At any rate, when the brushes were put in properly, everything worked. The repair person also adjusted the (2) screws on the speed control plate so that when you change the speeds via the lever, it all works properly. I didn't find a how-to video covering those adjustments either.
‘Can’t remember well enough to describe accurately. Removed one screw to remove rear cover. Removed two screws to remove bright-metal band - probably not necessary but it did yield a bit more working space. IIRC, three screws and removing wires from spade-connectors was sufficient to remove the speed control plate. Remove one more screw to remove phase control board (probably unnecessary). I took close-up pictures with my iPhone first to assure wires would get replaced on the proper lugs (only to discover the wiring diagram later). Adjusting the control plate to meet the speed criteria in the instructions was very easy. It did serve to remind me that I probably didn’t need either of the new parts; readjusting the old speed control plate would probably have done it. But I appreciate the POM brought on by the new parts.
It’s an incredible pleasure to work on something so well-made as this old Kitchen-Aid mixer. I just enjoyed handling it! Having achieved a proper repair was rather satisfying too. I just loved the entire experience!
Old screw cap wore out and would not hold bowl when mixing heavy batters.
Unscrewed old Screw Cap, tapped it out with hammer. Replaced with new screw cap that was slightly different and tight. Tapped it in with piece of wood over it and hammered it on. No problems.
Mixer would only run Full Fast. Could not determine cause or fault.
1. Removed the mixer back plate Cover. 2. Removed the Speed Control Plate and retained spring, wires and ground wire. 3. Removed the old Speed Control Plate screws. Noted Control Plate pitted contact. 4. Removed old Triac Phase Control Board. 5. Removed old Governor. 6. Installed new Governor. 7. Installed new Phase Control Board. 8. Installed new Speed Control Plate and retaining spring. 9. Reattached Speed Control Plate wires. 10. Adjusted Speed Control Plate Screws and set mixer speeds from Stir to maximum settings. 11. Replaced Motor Brushes on left and right side of mixer. 12. Reinstalled mixer back plate cover.
bowel would come out of screwcap when making dough for pasta
The repair was easy only requiring a phillips head screw driver to remove the old screw cap. The new screw cap fit snuggly and required a little downward pressure from my hand to seat it. Then I simply tightened the screws. Good as new for this 30+ year old mixer. My wife loves this mixer that was given to her by her Aunt. Glad we could keep it going.
I removed one screw on back, once inside mixer I removed the ground screw then pulled off the black and white push on caps, then I reversed everything to get it installed, very easy
Mixer would slip gears under load, finally would not mix under any load
Rather than duplicate previous repair works, I recommend going to this user site and follow their instructions: http://www.neilcrockett.com/mixer1.htm. Once you have done this repair, taking the unit apart is easier to perform this tasks. Order replacement Grease "Benalene 930-2" in the 3.3 oz container and be sure to use the full container to lather all around all the gear components so grease will be available to units for years to come due to heat build up under load. Too, the 3.5 oz container is made for one unit repair job and is available through Amazon. This grease is available on larger quantities if needed / desired. I did order both, a Worm Gear and the Worm Gear and Bracket as I wasn't sure of my mechanical ability to make this repair until I got inside the unit but the worm gear is easily replaced once you clean out all the old grease. The worm gear is a neoprene type gear with all other gears being metal. I assume neoprene is used as sacrificial to save other gears from breaking under loads and years of use.
