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49-2828-00-04 Tappan Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 49-2828-00-04
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dryer was squealing loadly
took off face of dryer, removed drum 4 screws removed two srews holding bearing and shaft ,replaced shaft bearing and shaft . Just for preventive maintenance i replaced idleling arm and dryer belt. I lined everything up replaced drum used shop vac to clean lint and dust from all parts replaced face of dryer and boom i got a btand new dryer
Parts Used:
Drum Support Bearing Dryer Drum Bearing Bracket Bracket Screw
  • MIKE from MASSAPEQUA PARK, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
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New Belt slipped off pulley - drum won't rotate
Removed access door. Disengaged spring, removed old idler. Slipped belt around new idler and motor pulley. Difficulty is putting spring back and inserting idler pulley bracket back in place while there is a lot of tension from the belt. Finally used adjustable wrench as a mini hammer.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Assembly
  • Lawrence K from Harrisonburg, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Very loud squeak
First I unplugged the dryer. Then I gently pryed the top of the dryer. This was done from the front using a flat screw driver. Do this gently pushing up on the handle of the tool. It will pop up one side at a time. No need to remove the screws and clips on the the rear top of the dryer. Set the top aside. Then from the inside front of the dryer using a phillips screw driver I removed two screws, one on each side. This allowed me to lift the front of the dryer up and away from the unit, off the two clips on the bottom front of the unit. I set the front cover on top of the dryer. There is no need to disconnect any wires. Next removed the rear vented cover on the back of the dryer so I could acess the belt pullies. From here I pushed the upper left pully to the right to ease belt tension and take the belt off that pully. Slide the belt to the rear of the drum. Next I removed the three screws from the center most part of the inside of the dryer drum. My dryer required the use of a square head driver tool. This allowed me to easily bring the dryer drum out the front of the unit. Set it out of your way. Then I vacuumed the dust out of the dryer. Then I lifted out the metal part that resembles a trailer hitch which had been attached to the dryer drum. Next using a nut driver I removed the two screws which hold the white plastic part of the bearing assembly to the rear of the dryer. That is all the taking apart work.
Putting it all back together was not too difficult. First install the new white plastic part of the bearing assmbly inside the dryer along with the metal part on the outside rear. The little metal ball bearing goes on the OUTSIDE between the little metal part and the rear wall of the dryer. Do not leave it out as it provides electrical grounding between the dryer drum and the body of the dryer. Next attach the new bearing part that looks like a trailer hitch to the rear of the dryer drum. This is the three screw part. Then lift the drum back into the dryer. Do not yet set the drum all the way in. The dryer belt must be looped around the drum. I installed a new belt. If the bearing is worn out it is time for a new belt. The smooth side of the belt goes against the dryer drum. Now apply a generous amout of lubricant to the white plastic cradle which was installed on the back of the dryer and to the ball bearing area. Then the dryer drum may be set into place, that is the trailer hitch part into the white plastic cradle. Now the front of the dryer may be reinstalled. Push up on the inside of the dryer drum to line everything back up. Put the two screws back which hold the dryer front on. Be carefull not to drop them inside. Put the dryer belt back into place on its pullies. It goes on the inside of the left and right pullies and on the outside (bottom) of the pully of the dryer motor. Check for and undo any twists. Plug in and test the dryer. All should be well. Reinstall the rear vented cover. Replace the top, connecting the rear first. Make sure to reattach the green grounding wire. Then push the front of the top down onto its clips. You are done! This took me 1 hour and 10 minutes. It sounds like alot but you can do it! Empower yourself!
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • George from Bozeman, MT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Drum making noise when running ( rear bearing )
Took a putty knife and released top clips. Tipped top back , and took out 4 screws holding front cover in place. Lifted out drum, replaced bearing plate. Removed 2 screws and replaced back panel bearing. Placed drum back in place, installed front panel, snapped top back in place and job was done. Very easy. Took about one hour.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • Ralph from Wisconsin Rapids, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Burn marks on clothes
Opened the top of the dryer (no tools needed).
used socket set and removed the two screws (one on each side). unpluged wires from front panel, labled each (good practice).
Pulled open the front panel.
cleaned old felt off all around the front panel. Wiped down everything. while I had it opened, I vaccumed out the dryer underneath.
used glue provided in felt kit and glued new felt where old was.
let dry, put front panel back on ensuring that the felt was between drum and front panel.
put screws back in front panel. closed top.
Let me say that this is the third time I've done this to this dryer as it is about 18 years old.
Until the heating coils go out, this is the cheapest fix there is. :-)
Parts Used:
Upper Drum Glide Front Drum Seal
  • Carlis from Lexa, AR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Clothes caught between drum and felt, leaving stains
First, I popped the two clips that hold on the top. Then, I removed two screws and unplugged a few wire connectors to remove the front panel. I scraped off the felt, which was rubbing the drum since the white plastic glides had worn completely through. I applied the high-temp adhesive liberally, laid on the new felt, and applied some spring clamps to hold it in place. I removed the small back panel to replace the belt, which was really easy with the dryer apart. The 7-year-old original belt was a little cracked.
Parts Used:
Drum Belt Upper Drum Glide
  • JOHN from St Peters, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Extremely noisy, grinding, old electric dryer.
Removed small panel at rear of dryer which allowed access to the Idler Pulley asembly. Easily removed, and replaced with new idler assembly. Fed belt onto new pulley and attached tension spring. Actually, this replacement idler pulley assembly is much better than the original. It has a shoulder to allow the belt to "track" better over drum and around motor pulley. Dryer is now extremely quiet, like a new machine. Hope to get another 29 (yes 29) years out of it. Extremely pleased. Doug East Lansing, Michigan
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Assembly
  • DOUGLAS from EAST LANSING, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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no heat
I lifted the top at the front edge, slid the top back, disconnected the ground wire connected to the top at the rear edge, just slides off.
Then removed the phillips screws on the inside front edge, only one on each side,near top of dryer disconnect the wiring harness at the right side, cut the nylon tie strap holding harness also.
Tip front panel out a little and lift up, comes right off.
The coils are in plain site on the gas valve, remove the wires, and the two screws holding the bracket that holdes them in place, slide the old ones off and start putting back together.
I also used a vacume and cleaned all the lint and dust off everything I could, including the air intake at the rear of machine, "Peice of Cake"
Parts Used:
M Series Ignition Coil Kit
  • James from Alpena, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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read shaft and bearing wore out..screaching bad
I took the dryer apart to vacuum and check because of the screaching noise. Took drum out and found the bearing in pieces and shaft had rubbed against the brace. I thought as old as my dryer was I would never get a piece to fix it. I got online and found PartSelect.com. I found the part but could not tell if all was included. there was a Phone Number so I called it. I was helped instantly. They acted like it was no big deal to have a dryer that old. I got my part within a week and had my dryer back together. It works like new. Thank you
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • rickey from richmond, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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load squeal
replaced rear drum bearing kit. Watched video made it real easy. The only problem was getting the belt back on the pulleys.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • Mark from HGHLNDS RANCH, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Rear Bearing wearing out
I first looked at your directions then felt I could do the repair. So I ordered the part. The video was extremely helpful and allowed me to follow each step in the process. Last time I paid $270 for the exact repair. This time I costs me under $30. Plus I was able to clean out the entire inside of the dryer. The sitr instructions were very helpful and on target for any level of experience. I fixed my own dryer and saved a ton on it! Thank You, Randy In Colorado
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • Randy from CENTENNIAL, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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The igniter glowed red and the gas did not come on !
Read your article on possible repairs for different symptoms and after dis assembling and cleaning certain parts took a chance on the flame sensor, which turned out to be the culprit. Your help was a valuable tool in the repair process ! What would be the bee's knee's would be the resistance reading on the sensors that monitor the system for a more accurate diagnostic approach. But none the less you definitely aided in the repair of my propane gas dryer. Thank you very much ! And by the way the 3-4 day wait for the part was well worth the half price I paid versus our small town repair facility, Thanx again
Parts Used:
Flame Sensor
  • stefan from alpena, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Dryer did not completely dry the clothes. It required several cycles to dry clothes.
I unplugged the dryer and pryed open the top by inserting a screw driver in the space 1inch from the top on the side. After i opened it and lifed it up, I removed the one screw on both sides found in the inner part towards the front top. I then removed the front panel. The coils are toward the bottom left side. They are held in by a bracket which is held in by 2 screws. I removed the outer screw and loosened the inner screw. ( you can remove both screws but it was not necessary).I then swumg the bracket around and was able to lift out the coils. I removed the connectors and relaced the coils. Once done I re-assembled the dryer. The problem was solved.
Parts Used:
M Series Ignition Coil Kit
  • Lester from CHICAGO, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Gas burner worked sometimes only.
Dryer was working, only burner was working occasionally only. So, in result the drying time was very long, and clothes were cold and still not satisfactionally dry; occasionally only it was hot. It became obvious to me that gas burner only occasionally is working. On the Internet I found some instructables, mostly on YouTube, but also on this site (the Burner diagram): thus I have learned that the culprit must be the two tiny ignition coils: they worked only sometimes, so it was only a jeopardy when checking them using a continuation meter (voltmeter with continuation feature). For the access to the burner combo I used a small checking door right below the large door, in front wall of the dryer. There are only two small screws which hold a small piece of metal which cover these tiny coils. However, I had to disconnect the burner from gas pipe to get better access to those screws. (Of course, I also disconnected the dryer from power and I had to disconnect those wire connections on the burner combo to get access to the burner). It works perfectly after this repair.
Parts Used:
M Series Ignition Coil Kit
  • Marek from CHICAGO, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Squeaking
Watched Video Provided. Very Simple Repair. Asked my lovely wife to hold drum in place while replacing drive belt. She gladly complied and is back doing what she seems to love most. And no, I'm not kidding. Our washer and dryer seem to run 24/7/365. I've completed various repairs on both appliances over the last couple of years and saved 100's of dollars thanks to this site .
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • David from PORT CLINTON, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the 49-2828-00-04
106 - 120 of 394