41798988820 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Found the promblem as described at this site while looking for diagrams for the dyer. Repair went as described. Once I removed the old upper drum glide I used acetone to remove old glue. Cleaned up fast and easy. Once installed I let cure for about an hour and then reassembled. Let it cure for about an hour more and then I used the dyer. I could feel that the gap around the front of the drum was again narrow so that my finger tip would not slide into a grove. So far so good.

After changing the drum support bearing, and the front felt ring, the noise continued. It turned out to be the tensioner pully. The harmonic vibration travels throughout the dryer box like an instrument so you can't tell where the sound is comming from. Before you do anything, spray a little wd40 between the bushing and the shaft on the belt tenioner pully. If the squeel goes away, you have found your smoking gun.

Removed two screws in the inside of the front after opening the top by releasing the two clips. Front comes off of bottom clips easily. Drum can be removed and repairs made. Takes less than 30 minutes Be sure to remove door switch wire & unplug unit first. Drum belt can be re-installed easily thru the back access panel.

Followed the instructions in the video. It was very helpful.

popped in one in

I removed the top lid, then removed the front panel, to expose top and bottom drum glides attached to panel, then using a carpenter shisel, and cutting knive scraped away the old worn out glides, wiped clean with acetone the area were the new glides were being cemented. all of this thanks to couple of customers that had the same issues on their dryer, and documented step by step their own way to have this done, I just followed thru their experiences.

I followed the instructions on previous posts. The only problem I had was trying to remount the drum to the bearing unit which sits in the back of the driver. I just couldn't get the three holes lined up for the screws until I finally laid the dryer on its back, and then presto! - it went together in seconds.

This project probably took me longer than most people because I'm always looking things over and a little cautious in my work. I never realized how simple a dryer system is until I had dismantled this one. I spent $38 to fix my dryer rather than buy a new one. $10 of that was for the belt which I changed only because I was in there. Parts from partselect.com arrived 48 hours after ordering, and I used their basic shipping.

After watching the video that explained and showed how to replace the bearing assembly, installation was a breeze. Great company to do business with. Ordered the part and had it in two days, and the dryer was working again asap. Thanks PartSelect
PS this dryer is 23 years old.

My dad and I followed the video instructions and it was easy! No more ear piercing noise! I did find that once we took the front of the dryer off there was a lot of lint! Never thought to clean the front of the dryer out!
The video was a great way to see exactly what you needed to do, just follow what they say and you will have no problems!

Removed dryer top. Unscrewed the screw from each side inside the dryer the ones below the control panels. Don't unscrew those you will just have to put them back. Insert a flathead screw driver on the left side to loosen the front panel and slide it gently to the right. You can replace the drum glide without disconnecting any of the wires. Remove old drum glide and clean. Install new one and while the glue dries clean inside the dryer. Mine was very dirty!!!! Put everthing back and your ready to go. Don't forget to hook back the dryer vent. Thank you partselect my dryer is almost like new and is drying so much faster, no more noise and you have saved me lots of money.

Real simple, Unplug power cord from the wall outlet. Then open the top of the dryer by inserting a flat blade screwdriver under the front and pry up till the top snaps open. Lean the top to the back to keep it out of the way. Remove the 2 screws that held the front on and remove the wires for the door switch and the light. Remove the front by letting it lean out about 8 inches and lift it up out of the two bottom clips. Then just lay it any where it will be easy to work on. Clean where the new guide will go. Then just follow the instructions that came with the part. After the adhesive is fully dry just reverse the process and you are done.

Removed top and front of dryer and rear panel. Installed belt and new idler pulley. Reinstalled top and front panel and rear panel. Dryer worked great.

First I have to say that the video on the Parts Select website was invaluable, it truly made the replacement a no brainer. The kit came with everything I need and was a great price.

Unplug the dryer, mine is a stackable so we had to remove the dry from the top of the washer. I then followed the instructions from the video. The only real difference was that my dryer is that is has dual direction tumbling, so there were 2 idler arms instead of one to move in order to un hook the belt. was pretty easy.

I only needed my husband's help a couple of times because 1. To get the dryer off of the washer. And 2. I didn’t have the reach to install the new bearing on the back of the drum.

unplugged the dryer and "popped" the top with a screwdriver. Removed two phillips head screws located towards the top of the drum that hold the front panel in place.Unplug the two wires that attach to the front door switch. Removed the panel. In the center of the drum are three screws that mount it to the rear bearing assy. Thats the part that led to the breakdown of the front seal and guide blocks witch allowed lint to escape into the cabinet. Removed the screws then in the back of the dryer there is a small grill that allows air flow. If you take that off, there is the motor and belt tensioner.. My belt had been ruined so I just slid the drum out the front. Normally you would have to release the belt from the tension pulley and motor first. After sliding the drum out, you see the rear bearing assembly. Behind the flange, there are two screws that have to be removed to get the bearing assy out. Here is the tricky part. The two screws mount into a small plate that is on the back of the dryer. There is a tang in the center of that plate that holds a little steel ball that applies some tension to the bearing to help hold it in the correct position without making it to rigid to move around naturally. when you go to install the new bearing, tape that plate to the back of the dryer to hold it in place while you set the new bearing in place. unless you have someone to hold it, you will drop the ball and you will have to start over again. Using the grease provided grease the socket of the bearing and istall the ball of the flange into it. then take the little ball I described and apply grease to it and stick it to the backside of the bearing socket where you will see a hole drilled out. that ball sits in that hole and rests against the tang of the plate that I spoke of. after that the rest is easy. Remove the top felt piece with the teflon (white ) platwes from the top of the door assy. where the drum rides on. I used a wire brush to clean off the residue of dried glue. use some small pinch clamps or clothes pins to hold the new felt in place. Spread the glue provided onto the now clean surface and wait till it gets tacky ( afew minutes) then lay felt onto it evenly. then use the clamps to hold the felt while it dries. While thats drying, place the new belt over the ring at the back of the dryer. slide the drum in and as you do, pull the belt over the drum and just let it hang there. line up and istall the three screws to hold the drum to the rear bearing flange. then go to the back of the dryer and loop the belt around the motor shaft you will notice that the idler pulley on the tensioner slids right off towards you. Thats so you can get the belt on easier. Slide the pulley off and plce it agaist the belt, pull the tensioner to the right and when you have enough slack, push the idler onto the tensioner shaft. It sounds harder than it is it's really a lot easier when you see it. once the belt is installed remove the clamps from the new felt and install the front panel . place it in at the bottom first taking care to line it up in the grooves then push it into place. there are a couple of alignment clips that will help. Put the two screws in place, plug the switch wires back in, and lower the top. you are done. the only part i left out was to make sure you vacuum the whole thing out while you have it apart. especially where the lint trap is. there is usually a large buildup in there. plug it in and give it a test run.

Removed access plate in rear, raised top panel, removed two screws holding front panel (with door) put new belt over drum. Threaded belt through path between motor drive and idler wheel. Put everything back together.

My order was shipped very promptly, and was received very quickly. It is wonderful to have this service available on the internet. I can remember how difficult it used to be chasing down parts before. This was impossible in smaller cities.