Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Very, very easy. Took about 5 minutes. The end cap was on and working. And the repair company would charge $65 just to come out and look at it. It costs $9.00 to fix it. I am moving on to the refrigerator next. Very satisfied. Shipping is well worth the money. Ray D, Ansonia, CT
Old cap was already off and had string on it. Cut the string. Placed end cap over. Used needle nose pliers to open metal rail a little and put in new cap. Locked right in. That was easy. Thanks again.
No Plumer could help me. No one heard of a dishwasher check valve. My dishwasher was an ISA. I was lost until i found the relationship to Kitchenaid. Then sears. Vuela! The valve was there, but unavailable. A few more links, and the term "flapper" came up. Well, my dishwasher check valve HAD a flapper inside. Although a plastic pos, i could unscrew the two halves and see the flapper. A little piece of rubber, about 1" in diameter All suppliers gave me but two choices. One large (size given) one smaller. After years of searching, all I needed was a flapper valve. Not the whole check valve. I found it hear for under $10
I took the front off of the dishwasher door, loosened the screws, unplugged the module and replaced it with the new module. This repair was the easiest repair I've ever completed!
My son found a water leak and cut the water supply off. He then pulled the machine from under the counter at which time I examined the valve under pressure and saw the leak. We cut the water off again and after tripping the circuit breaker we pulled the electrical connector and undid the mounting bracket which made getting the lines off the valve much simpler. New valve in hand I attached the lines and did a test then remounted the bracket and attached the electric. Easy as pie!
At first I found some water on my hardwood floor by the dishwasher, I thought that I might spilled't the day before, then it hapened again, so I remover the front lower cover for the dishwasher and I found water under the dishwasher, then I turned on the machine and I found a pin hall water leak from the water inlet valve. I turned the machine off, then I closed the water valve under the sink, then I disconected the power plug from the valve, the diconected the water supply copper pipe, then diconected the house from the valve to dishwasher, then got the part# from the valve sticker and the model# for the dishwasher from inside of the door. after that I went online and I got the valve. make sure to try more than one website because they all have differant prices, and Parts Select was the lowest one.
This was very easy. 1) roll out lower rack, 2) rotate lower arm slightly counter-clockwise and lift it out, 3) install new lower arm by dropping into position and rotating clockwise. 4) roll in lower rack, and roll out upper rack, 5) use a nut driver to remove the retaining bolt/screw from the upper arm - it's in the center of the upper arm and you have to work from underside of upper rack, 6) remover upper arm, 7) install new upper arm by holding in position and re-inserting the retaining bolt/screw. 8) Tighten the retaining screw and make sure upper arm freely rotates.
Very simple. Took off back cover with screwdriver. Popped off back cap found in center top inside. Replaced spring and white stick looking thing. Put black cover and then back panel back on. Instantly worked again.
Removed the dishwasher from the cabinet. Turned it on it's top side. Removed the exit hose from the pump with a nut driver and replaced the flapper. Reconnected the hose to the pump.
This isn't a terribly tricky repair, and the parts are cheap so it's worth a try!
(I had one tricky thing which was the door actuator broke while the door was shut. So I had to get the machine out of it's space without being able to open the front of the machine. I did this by lowering the feet in the front of the machine and then I used a hammer and flat chisel to break the two metal screws I had holding the top of the machine to the top of counter top...a little tricky!)
Remove screws from inside lower panel (where you put soap..the bottom) this will allow you to remove the inside of the door. But be careful as there are still wires attached so be careful to place the inside part without stressing the wires.
I needed to remove the metal harness and to open the black rectangular box that holds the interlock plunger so I could remove the plunger and spring (don't lose..and remember how it goes. take pictures if necessary). Then I was able to remove the broken actuator and see how it all fits together. It rests on top of the latch with notched side facing the inside of the machine. Make sure the notch is centered around where the interlock plunger is located.
Once you have the pieces fit together insert them into the door. Replace the plunger and spring and close the black rectangular box. Then replace the metal harness.
Hold everything in place and put the inside of the door back into position and lock it down with the screws.
You can test the door to make sure it's working but the whole mechanism is less functional when the machine isn't secured into its space. So, if you're mostly sure you've got it right, resecure the machine into its space making sure it's solid and then you should be good.
Like most everyone here I was very happy to accomplish this repair without calling in the repair service!! Awesome.
White latch on soap dispenser broken- would not latch
The first posted instruction is dead on (except there are 14 phillips screws (not 10) on inside of door. Also, when reconnecting the 2" quick connect, make sure it is fully inserted - otherwise the numbers on the display panel will not show correctly. Mine didn't the first time, and I had to re-open the door panel and giggle around with the connection to get the numbers to display properly.
I watched the video, read the instructions and went to work. This was the easiest repair I have ever done. I'm 71 and if I can do all 3 spray arms in a total of 15 minutes, anyone can. The hardest part was getting up off the floor when I was finished. The spray arms were all clogged, we have very hard water.
clunking sound every second when lower spray rotating
get fingers between lower spray arm and drive flange - rotate arm counter-clock wise and lift off...the arm was warped and hitting inside of lower door liner.
Dishwasher makes excessive noise when filling with water. Diagnosed by repairman.
The repairman offered to fix the dishwasher at a cost of about $200 or supply the water inlet valve for $85. Google led me to PartSelect.com where I easily found the correct part for $45. I received the part in 2 days by FedEx ground. The hardest part of the repair was removing the dishwasher from the cabinet. I took the dishwasher out a short distance to the patio where I replaced the water valve...about 10 minutes. I then made a makeshift connection to an outdoor water hose and connected the electricity and ran the dishwasher while out on the patio through a short cycle to make sure of the repair and check for leaks. Then reinstalled into the cabinet...total time about 2 hours. Thank you PartSelect.com