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mixer would not turn
removed the screws holding the mixer housing and then removed the worn worm gear by removing the roll pin holding it on the shaft. Replaced the worm gear and inserted the pin that hole it in place. Replaced some of the gear grease and reassembled mixer. Went very easily. No problems at all.
use your phones to take pic of how the wiring is to be reconnected, take pleanty from all angles
repair is farly simple just take your time, First attempted i didnt replace the speed covernor looked ok but had problems getting slow end to work properly decided to go ahead and install since i purchased it also and walia took care of the cogging problem. Good Luck
Mixer was overloaded, and began to smell hot and make noise. Did not recover when load was removed.
I disassembled the mixer using a YouTube video as a guide. Disassembly was easy, as everything was held together with pins and threaded fasteners, and all electrical connections were plug-on.
Cleaning out the old grease was messy and time-consuming. I used a putty knife, screwdrivers (used them like small putty knives in the crevasses), paper towels, and finally, small cloths dampened with alcohol. After about a hour (maybe 90 minutes) everything actually looked like new.
I originally diagnosed the problem as the plastic gear loosening up from it's hub, so I ordered the complete gear tower assembly. It turned out not to be the problem- the gears were fine. With the gears removed to eliminate load, I applied power and saw that the original symptom was still there.
Further research turned up that this symptom is more likely a failed field coil, or possibly the phase control board. I ordered both from PartSelect. In the meantime, I tested the armature by measuring the resistance across the brushes as I slowly turned it by hand. At every angle, the resistance was about 7.5 ohms. Nothing lower, and no opens, so I'm pretty sure the armature is OK.
The phase control board arrived, but as of this writing, the field coil has been back ordered for almost a month. While I waited, I tried a partial reassembly of the head with the new board, and it worked! This weekend, I'll finish reassembly of the motor unit to the base/gearbox and calibrate the speed governor. In addition to the new gear tower and phase control board, it has new grease, seals, and both side levers (tilt and speed control) that had lost their knobs some time ago.
Hopefully it will be ready for another quarter century of use!
Broken lift arm. Could not raise the mixer bowl to the rotating mixer blade.
Separated the mixer head from the pedestal and base by removing four bolt/screws (It is not necessary to separate the base and pedestal) . Rotated the lift arm to the raised position (a screwdriver might come in handy since the broken part might impede access) and removed the cotter pin (using needlenosed pliers) on the broken lift arm. Then used a hammer and a small hex driver to punch out the lift lever retaining/actuating pin. This allowed me to pull out the lift lever and replace the broken part with the new lift arm. It was a simple matter to then replace the lift lever retaining/actuating pin and the lift arm cotter pin, and reassemble the mixer head and pedestal.
The smallest gear was broken, so we got the worm gear and bracket as well as a new gasket and some lube to grease the gears
We disassembled it with the help of a YouTube video from partselect. We saw the damaged gear, removed the 4 screws to remove it, cleaned all the old grease out with rags so it wouldn't be contaminated by metal shavings. We reassembled it per the YouTube video and it works better than ever!! Make sure you remove the roll pin before trying to pry off the planetary plate, because I watched a different video first, which didnt tell me that and i bent it a bit.
Looked for the probable cause from a U-tube video, then found the parts list and repair video on the PartSelect website. When the parts arrived within 3days the shipped email had a video on exactly how to complete the repair. Repair video was very well done and easy to follow.
As I was using my mixer the spring clip broke off. I immediately went to my computer and googled you. Twenty-four hours later the part had arrived and I installed it by removing two screws, holding the spring in place and replacing the screws. At the same time a repairman was in our home repairing our drier and I felt so empowered by my repairmanship that I nearly asked him to leave! Thanks for your extreme promptness and readable parts chart.
plastic outer casing on tightening screw had broken
This is the tightening screw that holds the attachments into the motor unit of the mixer. Found your web site and reordered 2 replacement pieces (in case one breaks!). Very EZ and user friendly. Thank you!
A part required to operate the bowl lift had failed, "broken in half". I removed the base, by removing 4 large philips head screws, then removed the pedestal which housed the broken part by removing 4 more large philips head screws. I used a hammer and punch to drive out the split pin, a pair of pliers to remove the cotter pin and replaced the broken part.
remove the back cover part # 36, remove the top cover part # 1 (by removing the chrome ring parate # 28, the mobile disk part # 25 and six screws part # 24). This done, remove the system parat # 38 to release the Pevel Pinion Center Gear part # 15 and remove the damaged part and put the new part. The install the removed parts in reverse order as they withdrew.
Gear-worm teeth stripped, teeth on pinion shaft worn to sharp edge and case gasket dried out. Not bad for a 20 yr. old mixer.
Looked at the mixer schematic form your website,which made it easy for me to take it apart. Once it was apart & all the grease removed I disassembled & cleaned all the drive parts. Saw what was warn, ordered the parts from you. Three days later received the parts, everything fit perfect. Added grease,assembled the mixer and it ran perfect, good for another 20 yrs. Thank you for making it so easy to repair an old mixer in just over two hours. Rolf