0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot. 1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back. 2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap. 3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place. 4. Put the cap back. 5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
First unplug freezer and empty contents, then remove the screws from the air deflector, carefully remove styrafoam air deflector block then remove back panel for easy access. Fan will be easy to switch out from there. I highly recommend the You Tube video which is where I got my basic instructions.
Loud whirling noises when the motor started up, then they subside (and stop) in a short time
I have not yet done the repair. After watching this repair video two problems came to mind. First I only ordered one grommet not knowing that there were two (or more I don't yet know). The second problem is that this video must be for a fridge from like the 1940, but it looks NOTHING like mine from 2008. The manual shows a bazillion parts and frankly I'm just a wee bit afraid to get started, and I am generally very handy, buuuttttttttt I don't know about this one
Separately (from a different site) purchased new compressor fan and motor. I purchased the grommets here because the other site listed the grommets as temporarily out of stock. I did watch one of the videos on PartSelect about the grommet replacement. Repair was pretty simple, biggest challenge was getting to the screw on the far side of the motor. Removed the two screws holding the fan motor into place. Removed motor and blade. Reinstalled with new fan blade, new grommet and new motor.
the evaporator fan motor was making noise sometimes, but not all the time during the cooling cycle
after watching how easy it was to get to the evaporator fan motor on u-tube, I took out the motor to inspect it......the motor had about 1/8 inch shaft end play and a slight amount of play on the shaft, the rubber grommets looked OK.....I then put it back together......since the motor was the only moving part in this location I figured it had to be the part making the noise, so I ordered a motor and 2 grommets …...the replacement motor also had 1/8 inch end play on the shaft, but no play on the shaft....I installed the new parts and it has been a week now and no noise.....SUCCESS!...….the shaft on the motor protrudes from the motor, and the fan is mounted about 1 1/4 inch away from the bearing in the motor and the fan is unsupported, so I ASSUME that the slight amount of play on the shaft caused some harmonics which caused it to make noise some of the time, but not all of the time......
Was only two screws after that carefully took the part away unplugging the wires at the same time was plugging in to the new part and was done after 5 or 7 min
Loud screeching noise from freezer during cooling cycle
I replaced the fan motor and one of the grommets. When I took the motor out it was clear it was failing because there were metal flakes from the motor on the fan blade. I followed the instructions on the posted video. My model did not have a removable bottom tray in the freezer so that was one less thing to do. Aside from that the video was accurate. I had two minor problems during reinstallation. First, it was very difficult to get the spring clamp back on the fan blade without pushing it against the motor. Recommend you get someone to help hold the spring open while you push it on. Second, the length of wire on the replacement was not exactly the same as the original and I had to move some wires around. Recommend you take a picture of the cable layout before disassembling.
Open freezer, remove rack....this got a little complicated because I had to remove the door, that required the offset screwdriver because I had a clearance issues preventing the door from opening all the way. Remove the panel covering the fan, unplug the fan, remove it from bracket, install new fan, plug in, replace panel, replace rack, replace door...bam all done!
Fast and easy-great video instructions for each part ordered. All parts perfect fit. My refrigerator is running like new again-good for another 10 years!
Remove ice maker and all of it's accessories in order to remove the panel covering the fan. Don't drop the screws! Unscrew the lower fan bracket. You will see the lower red rubber grommet. Hold fan motor with one hand and push the fan off the shaft and into the compartment above. Then remove the round retainer thing below it by holding it and pulling down on the motor assembly. Install new grommet on upper part. and put it all together. REMEMBER where the fan is on the shaft. It has about one inch of shaft placement. I put mine so that most of it was above the hole that the fan goes into and about 20 percent showing below the sheet metal. Also check to see if your fan is damaged. Mine was not. This refrigerator has been awesome! I have had many issues but have been able to fix all of them for the last 15 years!
Freezer was wet and there was no air coming out of the freezer fan. Unit was very noisy too.
The video that was attached to the part order was good, but not exactly the same as my unit. One thing I recommend is that you cover up the drain below the evaporator coil with a piece of paper and tape it down, because as I was putting the motor back I dropped a screw and it fell down the drain. So I had to go buy a new screw. Give the cost of a repair man coming to fix a refrigerator that cost only $450 to begin with, doing this repair was well worth my time. (But I also had another refrigerator to move things to and could take my time and wait while they replaced the faulty part they shipped me.)
Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.
Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.
A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.
