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excessive door swing
Removed the top hinge and the door. Removed door stop held in place by 2 screws, installed new door stop. re-installed door and top hinge. Easy once the correct diagnosis was made It would have been nice if I could have e-mailed you the symptoms and received an accurate diagnosis. As it developed, I initially replaced the door cam before realizing that the door stop itself had broken.
Disassembled front door/cover (3 screws), then removed deflection door assy, (4 1/4" nuts), CArefully and methodically removed C Clip and grinder teeth...Be careful with this step to document/remeber how to re-assemble! Auger repleced then reverse steps... All in all, not too bad, but you can easily screw up the teeth re-assembly.
I removed all items from area of refrigerator. I removed the drawers. I unscrewed the broken slide rail. Upper drawer had left side broken. Lower drawer had right side broken. I simply screwed the new slide rail in. The glass shelf didn't fit, so I took a pair of needle nose pliers and broke off a tiny piece on the slide rail that was preventing the glass from dropping in. (I checked the old one first and could see the same thing had been done) I screwed each rail in and dropped the glass shelf back in. (The lower shelf was broken and I ordered a replacement at the same time as the broken rails. I put the glass into the plastic holder of the old (broken) shelf and slipped it back in. Very easy. I'm a housewife not a repairman. I saved a few dollars on a house call.
Water line was broken at the bottom of the freezer door.
There is no access to the inside of the door to replace the water line. I was able to insert a 1/4" drip line barbed connector into the old line at the base of the door and then connect that to a piece of the plastic tubing which I then connected back to the original water supply tubing with the 5/16" union. It took three attempts to get the tubing through the bottom hinge without a crimp in it. It's best to have a second person to hold the door while you "fish" the tubing through the hinge.
This part (plastic tubing) does not show up under my model of refrig...so I had to look thru the various water lines and pick the one that "looked" right. Luckily, this is the exact replacement part and works perfectly. I removed the lower back panel from the fridge, removed the bracket holding the water line connectors and pressed the outer ring of the coupler up until it released the old water line. I pushed in the new line, made sure it was snug with a gentle pull and ran the line under the fridge up to the existing coupler. I removed the old line from the existing coupler under the front left of the freezer door, and pushed in the new line. I did not need to use the new coupler. If my old line would not have been so brittle and cracked in several places, I could have just cut out the leaking portion and popped the new couple in to mend the line back together. Easy job and we can stop buying bottled water at the store now!
1. Unplug refrigerator or flip breaker to kill power to the refrigerator. 2. With hands, gently pull the bottom lip of the 3" X 11" face plate panel above the dispenser head. 3. Remove the 4 screws that are under the removed panel. 4. Tip the assemby down to reveal 2 plugs. 5. Gently pull the 2 plugs to disconnect. 6. Open the assembly to reveal the solenoid. 7. There are 3 screws at the base of the solenoid. The center screw attaches to the green ground wire. 8. Remove the three screws. 9. Observe: The bracket at the top of the solenoid unit tucks behind a 4th screw above the solenoid. You may need to loosen this screw to relesae the solenoid. 10.Unplug the yellow and red connector to the solenoid. It should not be totally free to remove. 11. Put the plunger into the solenoid. Note that the plunger has an opening to insert the white plastic trigger for the trap door. Make sure the trigger is inserted into this opening before reassembling. 12. Plug the yellow and red connector into the new solenoid. 13. Position the new solenoid to match the screw holes. The bracket at the top of the solenoid tucks under the 4th screw. Tighten as necessary. 14. Insert the green ground wire into the middle screw hole at the base of the solenoid and tighten. 15. Insert the two screws to either side of the ground wire and tighten. 16. Gently reconnect the two plugs. 17. Tip the assembly back into place making sure the trap door and hoses are lined up correctly. 18. Replace the 4 screws. 19. Snap the face plate back into place. 20. Turn on the power and give it a try!
I used other instructions provided by customers on the website. They were very useful.
This is the second time we replaced this unit. The first replacement failed within the one-year warranty period. I called customer service and they had a replacement part and refund for the previous part on its way immediately. Excellent service!
Refrigerator was warm and freezer was still cool. Removed back panel in freezer to find it frozen solid!! Thawed it out using a hair dryer, worked for a couple of days but it quickly was frozen yet again.
Removed back panel from freezer by removing a few screws.. Unplugged refrigerator as not get shocked.. removed old heaters and thermostat and replaced with new ones and it's been working perfectly!!
Ordered the icemaker replacement. unplugged the unit, followed the simple instructions and got it done in less than 30 minutes. It did take a LONG time to start making ice. But it's working now.
The Ice Flapper warped and clogged up the Ice Shoot
I bought a Flapper replacement part from Parts Select. I installed it following their very complete on-line video directions. Their complete and easy to follow directions made my job very easy, and the work was completed without any problems and just as good as if it were done by a professional repair person. I am proud of my work, it couldn't have been done without their video insructions. Also I got delivery of the part within two days of my order. I will alway look for Parts Select any time I need an applicance repaired. Thanks to Parts Select!
Turned off The water supply. Removed the back panel corner(nut driver). Removed valve (nut driver) and water supply inlet line. Cut the old outlet lines at the valve (new lines are push in) disconnected electrical lines, Reinstalled inlet line and electrical lines. Reinstalled valve and back panel. Turned on the water. Ice maker filled with water and a short time later I had ice. Easy job.
crushed ice feature inoperative, broken pieces in water dispensed.
Found broken pieces of deflector in delivered ice. Removed dispenser, carefully disassembled it, marking fasteners, sprimgs, and levers. Local repaimen say no replacement part available, must replace entire ice maker @ $350. Found exact part in your online reference, ordered at price of $3.76, part arrived two days later--perfect fit, exactly same as original. Reassembled, and it works exactly like new. Family very happy. Good job!!!!!
Procedure for Replacing the Ice Chute Plate 1. Turn off the power. 2. Snap off the outside trim ring. Use a plastic screwdriver to avoid scratching the cabinet. 3. Locate the three small holes below the control panel facing, just above ice chute. The center hole is not used. With a small, blunt, object (wire – blunted nail) that is slightly smaller than the holes, push up rather firmly up through the outer holes to release front control panel. 4. Remove the three wire connectors from printed circuit board. Firmly pull/pry them straight out of retaining clip. Use caution: Excessive force will break clips. 5. Release the secondary panel by removing four screws (one in each corner). 6. Remove the flap assembly. 7. Clean all accessible areas with 1/10 bleach water to sanitize. Rinse the cleaned area with clear water and thoroughly dry everything before re-assembling the panel. 8. Install the new flap assembly. 9. Re-installed everything in the reverse order and check the functionality. 10. Order a spare ice chute flapper to be ready for the next event.