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dryer was cutting off completely.
The problem was intermittent. It only happened when the unit was first started. After it was restarted it usually worked until the load was dry. I looked at the schematics and saw that only the hi-temp therostat and the motor overload could stop the dryer completely. I put my volt meter on the hi-temp thermostat and ran the dryer. When the dryer stopped I realized the hi-temp therm. was tripping. I read the web site help for this symptom and the suggestion was the bias therm. I replaced it and the unit worked.
interlock switch was bad. Prevents the dishwasher form running as it "thinks" the door is still open.
Opened door, removed screw holding down metal plate that presses against interlock switch when door is closed. Removed plastic cover thingy that is over interlock switches. Removed the interlock switch by pressing the plastic lock thingy away from switch. Pulled the wires off each end of the interlock switch. Removed new interlock switch from plastic bag and reversed above procedure. Done, shut door and the dishwasher works.
Dryer developed a progressively noisy squeak over several months
I followed the directions that were listed on this site by other Do It Yourself individuals...by the way I'm a lady and more mechanically inclined than my husband, but he was a great help in lifting the drum up and out. (I unplugged the dryer before starting repairs) 1. I removed the two screws located at the top of the dryer inside the door. 2. Top of dryer cabinet lifted up after screws were removed. 3. Located and removed front panel retension screws and removed front panel and set aside 4. slipped belt off motor by reducing tension on idler pully 5. Removed screws inside drum that secured drum to bearing assembly 6. Husband and I lifted drum up and out of cabinet (this went very smoothly and took less than 15 minutes time. 7. Followed supplied bearing drum instructions and removed old bearing and installed new assembly. 8. Thoroughly cleaned out internal cabinet, blower, and motor areas 9. Reset the idler pully into proper position. 10. Tipped dryer on 'back' to reseat the drum With A NEW DRYER BELT (taped temporarily around the drum) into the bearing shaft (I may not be using the proper terms) 11. tipped dryer upright and while Hubby balanced the drum, the front panel was resecured to the rest of the cabinet. 12. Removed temporarily applied tape that held the drum belt in the general position, then using the rear access panel, I slipped the belt over the motor into the proper posisiton. 13. Top cabinet was reapplied and screwed into place. 14 Plugged in and tested the dryer...NO SQUEAKS and it works beautifully and quietly!!
The job is not terribly difficult, but I am only 5 feet tall and the drum is bulky to work with and balance. Reaching into the cabinet to slip the belt onto the motor stretched my arm to the limit. I found the cabinet reassembly and realignment of the screw holes quite annoying. But the total job proved satisfying upon completion.
I removed the door and "flipped" it to open right to left. Rather than remove the existing door latch I added the purchased latch on the right side to enable opening the door right to left or left to right.
Pulled out the remnants of the old latch out with the pliers and then popped the new one in...less than 2 minutes. Oh, and the part was delivered in less than 2 days. Great job, Partselect !
I reviewed the video instructions on the website; these were invaluable to understand the task. Since the dryer drum had to be removed to replace the thermostat, it was prudent to replace the drive belt at disassembly. Great job on the videos to see the extra effort required to install the new belt around the tensioner pulley while supporting the drum. I will use this site again when a need arises, because they are quick to ship the ordered part(s) and help the DIY handyman make repairs via the videos.
When I went home at Christmas, I saw that my Mom had been using a small bench to keep her dryer door shut. I wrote the make / model of the dryer down and found your website. I ordered the part, and my sister snapped it into place. My mom was so happy to have her dryer door stay shut again!
1st - removed the two screws inside the front door panel. They are somewhat hidden up underneath so you may have to look for them. 2nd - I removed the top of the dryer cabinet by lifting it out of the clips holding it in place. 3rd - removed the two screws (one on each side) in the o=uppper corner of where the side panels connect the front panel. These are about 3/4" phillips head screws. Then the front panel could be moved to one side of the dry. 4th - remove the drum by lifting it up and out the open top area. 5th - add the new belt to the dryer tub (rib side towards the drum) and replace dryer tub to its original position. 6th - reaching in underneath the tub you need to pull the ideler pulley toward the center of the cabinet while laying the belt on the "outer side" of the ideler pulley and at the same time fitting the belt over the small pulley located on the motor. Once that is done, you reassemble in reverse order and should be good to go.
I wanted to fix the cheapest possible problem first which was the thermostat.
Got the dryer apart and it was the wrong thermostat for the dryer, which was good news! I looked in inside floor of the dryer cabinet and saw alot of tiny "springs". Couldn't figure how they got there.
Turned out they were coils from the heating element. Must have burnt out and fell free from the element. So I ordered that and replaced it.
I want to say that I'm in NJ and I ordered that thermostat and got it in ONE DAY! Thought that was too good to be true but when I ordered the heating element THAT CAME IN ONE DAY!
I don't know what kind of people work in the shipping department but they are awesome! You really made the difference on this job.
So did the info on your website. I've never even seen a dryer apart before. It was a piece of cake thanks to you guys. You just saved me about $500.
Replaced lid switch with wire harness. Video available on this web page. The technician said bad motor. We counted the flashes, light on top of motor, was 7 times. Diagnoses are very important, save you money! Do it more times, be sure. Biggest problem is socket size for the screws, size 6,5mm or 1/4 inch. Do not call technician or throw away your washer!...
The easiest way we found to install the speed sensor was to detach the motor from the washer by removing 2 hex bolts...one on the left and one on the right. This was much easier than other suggestions of removing the impeller itself and working in such a tight space. when placing the sensor on, it mounts to the back side of the motor in designated bracket area; the green face of the sensor must point downward and towards the impeller. when remounting the motor, a second set of hands is helpful to reapply the belt and install the bolts.
I followed the instruction of the first posting for this category and it worked perfectly...thanks for the nice detail...
- Upon receipt from PartSelect, placed new slides in Drum Bearing (this does not come together or as a kit - must order 4 slides AND Bearing separately for this dryer model) - Loosened Top panel screws (2) from inside door area - Slid top of dryer off - PAY attention to HOW the top comes out (tabs at the back and slots on the sides) or replacing the top could prove frustrating) - Loosened Front panel screws (2) and GENTLY leaned the panel forward to access Drum Bearing - no need to REMOVE the front panel but be aware of the switch wires when leaning and the weight of the door if you did not remove that - Removed old Drum Bearing - Vacuumend interior of dryer cabinet (especially area leading down to vent) - Snapped new Drum Bearing into place - Re-secured Front panel paying attention to drum position to make sure everything still rotated properly and freely - Reset Top panel - align back tabs first, gently pull forward just a bit until Top slips down over side tabs, then slide back into place and re-secure