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support clip broken.
After figuring out how to remove the old broken clip, replacement was easy. Had to use a small putty knife to open the release on the bottom underside of the clip(between the clip & the refrig) . By looking at the replacement piece it was easy to figure out.
First I replaced the double valve because the ice maker was not filling with water. It still did not work. Then I replaced the ice maker itself. This worked and was relatively easy to replace. I had to use the water fill "slide" from the old ice maker. The new one was too narrow and it leaked water into the freezer.
The cam broke apart and the pieces were on the floor. The door did not close automatically. This was on the freezer side.
I used the same steps as described in other descriptions listed here. Since I was changing the hinge assembly on the freezer side the difference I discovered was that there was a nylon water hose inside the hinge assembly that I did not at first know how to remove. I finally called a repairman I happened to know and following his instruction simply snapped the hose loose where there was a connector and placed a cloth under it to catch the moisture that drained. Having done that, the rest of the assembly went just the same way as the other instructions listed here said that it would. Door now functions like new.
This replacement of the light shield was fast and easy. I wish they all good go this smooth.
I repaired as follows. 1) Open freezer door. 2)Removed ice maker bin. 3) removed screw with broken tab on it. 4) install new shield slide to side. 5) Reinstall screw. 6) Grab TAB (tasty adult beverage) and enjoy on back deck while talking about how good you are at repairing stuff.... HA!
The Ice maker would not run through a cycle. It would fill with water and produce ice but would need a little help by pressing up on the ejector to run through its cycle. Otherwise, it would not bring the ice to the holding bend. Sometimes the water would not fill. The icemaker was making ice it just was not letting the ice maker run through its cycle so I figured it had to be the circuit board. I bought the circut board which was easy to install. 1) Turn off water line and unplug power. 2) Pop off front panel plate at ice cube select switch area. 3) Unscrew 4 screws that holds control panel housing in place. 4) Remove panel assembly by disconnecting two different wiring plugs. 5) Unscrew 2 screws that allows access to control circuit board at end cap. 6) Remove circuit board by sliding it out of the assembly housing. 7) Install new circuit control board in assemble housing and screw on end cap retainer. 8) Attach two electrical wiring plugs. 9) Install control board assemble housing into frig opening and secure with 4 screws. 10) Install front panel plate (pops on). 11) Plug in power and turn on water line.
Ice Bucket Shelf Broke at screw hole also at back . Metal attachment at back broke free from fan cover.
GE in my opinion made a poor design the ice shelf bracket attached to the metal fan cover after metal tab was bent down that is also where it broke it was riveted to this but the metal broke free So i purchased a piece of aluminium flat strap cut this about 1" long then riveted this to the shelf bracket and pushed this through the metal fan cover and let rest there and put screw in at other end. Also purchased alum angle also to remake ice shelf when complete then i will use it as ice bucket shelf instead of plastic one.
opened refrigerator door located water filter location in right back corner unscrewd 1/2 turn and out it comes without shutting off water it is a snap to do by anyone and shipment was really quick thanks. People do not call a service tech for something this simple even a child tall enough can do it.
Unplugged refrigerator. Disconnected inlet water line. Disconnected outlet from leaking valve. Unplugged electrical connections. Reversed with the new part.
Moving the refrigerator into my new (very old) house we had to remove the doors which resulted in a crimped hose and union
Remove lower front panel, disconnect damaged union from water hose under freezer door, replace with new union, tighten and reattach front panel. No more water coming from under the unit. Ice maker and dispenser features returned to working order!
After changing the water filter to eliminate that, I did some research and determined it was probably a water valve. As this unit has a primary and secondary, and the secondary feeds the door (after receiving water from the primary) I mistakenly replaced the secondary. It was the primary water valve which was trickling enough water to keep the icemaker happy but not enough to drive the water on the door. In the future, I will do a test with a spare piece of water line which I ultimately did to figure this one out.
Turned off power, removed cover from Ice maker, checked resistance across thermostat for zero (read open), all other switches read proper value (when activated). Ordered and received thermostat. Removed Ice Maker from freezer, removed two screws holding ice tray to Control Assembly. Removed Thermostat and replaced with new one. Applied Silicone Sealant to face of Thermostat for adhesion to ice tray when assembled. Remounted Ice Tray to Control Assembly and remounted in freezer. Works Great...
Loosened screws holding old gasket to door. Removed old gasket. Fit new gasket around strips holding gasket in place---this was not easy. Tightened screws.
Take the back panel off inside of freezer side. Cut the wires off old Defrost Thermostat and strip the ends. Attach the wires of the new one and tighten with wire nuts. Put back panel back on.